Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I noticed some grease puking out of the pass. side CV boot, so I put a hose clamp where the factory clamp used to be. Then the drivers boot started puking a few days later, and noticed the innermost joint is sticking way out into the boot.

Got some new aftermarket axles from a buddy who works at a local auto parts warehouse. They were super cheap but thought I would give them a try. Well, get them installed and the barely noticeable shimmy caused from the factory ones is now a TON worse. It shakes and vibrates under load so bad its not even funny.

Thinking I may not have got seated, I uninstalled both sides and put everything back together. Still a terrible vibration under load. After countless hours of research, I have come to the conclusion that aftermarket axles are junk and OEM are $590/side. That's ridiculous and I wont spend that much on axles for a $4500 car.

Even though the factory units are leaking grease and the pass. unit's innermost joint is out under the boot, can I rebuild them with new joints or can someone local do this for me?

Please help guys I really need some decent axles that do not shake and vibrate!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,048 Posts
Looks like you can buy CV joint sets...

I noticed some grease puking out of the pass. side CV boot, so I put a hose clamp where the factory clamp used to be. Then the drivers boot started puking a few days later, and noticed the innermost joint is sticking way out into the boot.

Got some new aftermarket axles from a buddy who works at a local auto parts warehouse. They were super cheap but thought I would give them a try. Well, get them installed and the barely noticeable shimmy caused from the factory ones is now a TON worse. It shakes and vibrates under load so bad its not even funny.

Thinking I may not have got seated, I uninstalled both sides and put everything back together. Still a terrible vibration under load. After countless hours of research, I have come to the conclusion that aftermarket axles are junk and OEM are $590/side. That's ridiculous and I wont spend that much on axles for a $4500 car.

Even though the factory units are leaking grease and the pass. unit's innermost joint is out under the boot, can I rebuild them with new joints or can someone local do this for me?

Please help guys I really need some decent axles that do not shake and vibrate!
Guessing at the year of your vehicle, since you did not mention it, try: https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/1999-honda-cr-v-5dr_lx_2wd-ka-4at/driveshaft-half-shaft.html

I also looked at these parts for a 2010 and they are a lot less expensive.
 

·
Not-a-Mechanic
Joined
·
311 Posts
Yes, you can rebuild with new quality joints. Try the online dealership for better pricing. Consider it could be something else causing your vibration.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
I had a similar experience /w aftermarket axles. $500 for a new OEM was a tough sell on my vehicle. Tried a reman parts store axle thinking at least that has an OEM core, whereas the new aftermarket axles are known to vibrate. The reman vibrated slightly under heavy load, but was livable. However, the outer joint on that axle disintegrated w/o warning while I was going 75 MPH down the freeway, and I was lucky to have not died in a fire, or at least had major damage to the hub or transmission. Local mechanic put in a new aftermarket axle from a parts store to get me going again at least, but the new one vibrated like crazy under acceleration @ around 20-30 MPH.

Ended up replacing that one with an OEM salvage in fairly good shape that cost $40. No vibration, no issues. A more complete job would have been to reboot and repack grease on each side, and new paint too if that doesn't affect the balance. I would call that a perfectly good refurbished axle for around $100 that will go many miles.

tl;dr aftermarket axles are what people say, garbage. Until a reputable outfit like raxles offers good remans, buy new OEM, or used OEM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I had a similar experience /w aftermarket axles. $500 for a new OEM was a tough sell on my vehicle. Tried a reman parts store axle thinking at least that has an OEM core, whereas the new aftermarket axles are known to vibrate. The reman vibrated slightly under heavy load, but was livable. However, the outer joint on that axle disintegrated w/o warning while I was going 75 MPH down the freeway, and I was lucky to have not died in a fire, or at least had major damage to the hub or transmission. Local mechanic put in a new aftermarket axle from a parts store to get me going again at least, but the new one vibrated like crazy under acceleration @ around 20-30 MPH.

Ended up replacing that one with an OEM salvage in fairly good shape that cost $40. No vibration, no issues. A more complete job would have been to reboot and repack grease on each side, and new paint too if that doesn't affect the balance. I would call that a perfectly good refurbished axle for around $100 that will go many miles.

tl;dr aftermarket axles are what people say, garbage. Until a reputable outfit like raxles offers good remans, buy new OEM, or used OEM.
Sorry guys, its a 99 5spd. You hit the nail on the head. I got new boots and grease and started tearing my OEM units apart to reboot and regrease, but noticed I mushroomed the axle ends when hitting them (yes, wit ha big-ass hammer)so they would free up from the hub. Could I have damaged something inside of the trans from whacking the axles ends with a hammer?

I have taken the Dremel to the mushroomed part of the axle so the axle nut could slip on, but the thread are damaged. I actually had to remove a couple of the threads with the Dremel. I cannot get the nut on. Any ideas here?

I am actually so disgruntled with this issue that I tried to sell it tonight but the potential buyer is very concerned with the vibration even though I explained aftermarket axles just do this and it wont hurt the car in any way.

I am at that point where I am starting to loose patience so any help is appreciated. I have decided that non-oem units are completely out of the questions no matter which auto parts store or supplier they come from. I have thought about dropping a ridiculous amount of cash on the new units, but that doesnt make any sense. I thought I bought new OEM yesterday from the JY but turns out they are GSP. My mistake for not looking them over better.

Does it matter if the CV axles from from a MT or AT and with or without ABS? Frankly, I dont even know if I have ABS but a guy told me the raised rings on the axle hub is the giveaway that I do indeed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
I doubt the transmission is damaged unless you were using a massive hammer with lots of violence, but I would probably not put an axle back in with damaged threads for safety reasons. Buy a used axle off eBay, or go back to the salvage yard with your OEM axle for comparison with any pulls there.

Parts catalog shows different parts for standard and auto trans too.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,201 Posts
I like my buddy's to provide solutions, not problems.
Sadly there is tons more junky after market parts out there today, thanks to Ebay etc that you need to avoid.

Please post the name of the brand here so we know to avoid them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
104 Posts
The reman that fell apart was an A-1 Cardone, while the new one that vibrated terribly was a TrakMotive based off the P/N's of what O'Reilly's rebranded. All the parts stores sell the same stuff (would have got the exact same part from NAPA in a different box, for example).

I am generally fine with aftermarket parts; some are junk, while others are as good, or even better than OEM, but the unfortunate situation with CV axles is that there are no high end, guaranteed quality aftermarket parts available for most vehicles. That leaves you with only three options: dodgy low end parts, used OEM, or very expensive new OEM. Since CV axles are a fairly common part that is replaced, I really don't understand this situation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Couldn't agree more Zen. Although I cant recall the brand off top of my head, Trakmotive Actually sounds right. I ended up Dremeling down the mushroomed part of the axle and got my own axles in no problem.

I have called or looked at every wrecking yard here and no one really seems to have any or know if they are OEM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,048 Posts
Pulled from another thread...

Couldn't agree more Zen. Although I cant recall the brand off top of my head, Trakmotive Actually sounds right. I ended up Dremeling down the mushroomed part of the axle and got my own axles in no problem.

I have called or looked at every wrecking yard here and no one really seems to have any or know if they are OEM.
This information was pulled from a different thread some time ago. I know nothing of the source but as I recall the praise was very good.

If you go here: http://www.axlesunlimitedinc.com

Their email address and phone number are at the bottom of the page.

It might be worth a call to ask if their stuff works in Hondas?

Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
RE: My Honda 2007 (generation 3) CRV AWD automatic 160,000 klms, located in Australia.

Symptoms: I've been experiencing for a number of months the front floor vibration issue. Shows up pretty much across the rev and road speed ranges ... to confirm, most evident when accelerating on an uphill gradient, with more intense front floorpan vibration around 75-85 kph. Vibration ceases altogether when NOT accelerating.

Solution: Found locally a motor mechanic who also happens to be a CV Joint Specialist. Firstly he checked out the CRV on the hoist, ran a few checks. Without dismantling anything, he reported to me that on rotation, one inner joint (drivers side USA, passenger side Australia) didn't FEEL the same (suspect)as the other inner joint. We agreed to replace the suspect side with an aftermarket drive axle.

Honda quoted me OEM version $AU1183 per drive axle SUPPLY ONLY, whereas mechanic quoted me aftermarket $AU281 SUPPLY ONLY including freight.
Result: Perfect! Solved! No vibration! GONE GONE GONE!!!!!!!
Cause found: Worn and pitted inner joint.

So in Australia, ONE only aftermarket drive axle resolved the problem perfectly and for a quarter of the supply only price of a Honda OEM supplied part. The original Honda drive axle on the other side is still in place .. no action required.

So my experience here using an aftermarket part successfully is at odds with statements stated here by other members re: AVOID installing aftermarket drive axles as a solution. Go figure.
My only suggestion is to only buy parts from auto parts stores that are the preferred suppliers of auto mechanics.
Hope this helps. Cheers.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top