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Discussion Starter #1
The original thread was entertaining to read but I agreed with rocky that the conversation has deviated too much from the original intent. I was going to tell rocky to slap people back in line but oh well, it is 60 pages long so trying to find relevant information could be time consuming. So this new thread is to continue that one but please keep this one in the spirit of talking about the fix if you have it done to your car. I don't have it yet so I'm eagerly waiting to hear from people who have had the fix done.

Thanks
 

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I wonder if they increased the fuel at start up and or driving?....over the last 2 weeks since fix when I first start up to back out of the garage....it smells really rich or something....never did that before and both tail pipe have lots of soot now showing on the tips,,,,have had it for a year and never seen it this bad?.....this is a reply to post below
 

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Some folks seemed to believe that the problem of oil getting into the engine is a constant one as opposed to just on the start cycle.
I have had the "fix" which altered the start cycle fuel programming software and the engine heat controller. We will see how that works.
Unfortunately, it may take a few weeks but I have spoken with some others that had the "fix" done a few weeks earlier and it seemed to have worked.
Oh and, no engine knocks before and none after either LOL
 

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Apologies if this is the wrong thread ... so many I lost count :) So I live in Quebec, Canada, where the temps get quite cold. Half the time, I take relatively short trips to the gym and back. Going to work takes me on the highway for a good 70% of the 20 mile drive. I keep my 2018 in econ mode and "D" on the shifter. I baby the engine generally, it hardly revs past 2300. I checked my oil and it hasn't increased in volume in the 4k miles I've driven on it (I got it new). My question is -> does anyone know if this issue is a manufacturing defect, or is it based on the way one drives? Is it based on the additives added to fuel in colder climates? Or type of oil used? I am still on the original oil from the factory (or dealer, unsure if they changed it before delivery). I checked and my VIN qualifies for the PCM update, not the climate control h/w swap. My fuel economy is pretty good , averaging at 7.7-8.0 L/100km, which is not bad, especially on new winter tires. So I am just concerned if there are some cars that have something specific to them (leaky injectors, etc..) or if everyone has this issues, but it depends on external factors like pressure, driver habits, etc...
 

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Here's a question

Our dealer said this is the same engine that's in other models and they haven't seen it happen in those at all like the Accord, this does lead me to believe that it's a programming issue not design, they may have criss cross problems with computers during colder weather or something else that makes it run rich or the injectors are shooting way too early or late or both under certain conditions that is a programming problem ony in certain CR-Vs

your thoughts?
 

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Also I want to point out that this is a known problem on direct injection engines, I don't have the ability to post links but if you go to youtube and search this you will find a good explanation and this is happening to Mazda's and other brands as well.

search-- Engine Oil Diluted With Fuel (the facts for 2018)
 

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Why do you baby the engine like this?
Never getting past 2300 rpm?
You are contributing to the issue at hand..
how does that contribute to anything? they're just driving their car in the manner that they feel comfortable driving it. the issue should be agnostic of how you're driving, unless you're toeing the redline of the damn thing. then it is on you.
 

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Why do you baby the engine like this?
Never getting past 2300 rpm?
You are contributing to the issue at hand..
People do it because it's intuitive. After all it works well with almost every other kind of product, so why not a cars engine. They don't realize that the engine will last the longest if its running at it's proper operational temperature and have the quickest death if it's constantly being cooled and then barely heated. Given the efficiency of the 1.5L and the colder temps as you go further North you really want to have this engine revving up to at least 3000-4000 RPM for as much of the drive as possible or until the temp gauge is in the middle.

As for the questions about if this problem is happening with all CR-V's and why is it not happening with other models of Honda cars that are using the same engine.

In the first instance it is not happening to all CRV's it is only happening to a small percentage of them and it is also happening in other vehicles but in even smaller numbers. Many forum members have driven through cold winters on relatively short daily trips and had no problems while some have seen massive increases in oil dilution. It sucks if you got one with the issue and Honda's lack of clear communication has not helped. If the recent stories are true and the upgrade is based on your VIN then that would suggest that they have limited the problem down to a specific part or software patch contained in certain vehicles. At this point nothing is certain as the only real Poll that addresses if the fix works or not has very little data. I guess people are waiting for really cold weather to hit before making a verdict.
 

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Apologies if this is the wrong thread ... so many I lost count :) So I live in Quebec, Canada, where the temps get quite cold. Half the time, I take relatively short trips to the gym and back. Going to work takes me on the highway for a good 70% of the 20 mile drive. I keep my 2018 in econ mode and "D" on the shifter. I baby the engine generally, it hardly revs past 2300. I checked my oil and it hasn't increased in volume in the 4k miles I've driven on it (I got it new). My question is -> does anyone know if this issue is a manufacturing defect, or is it based on the way one drives? Is it based on the additives added to fuel in colder climates? Or type of oil used? I am still on the original oil from the factory (or dealer, unsure if they changed it before delivery). I checked and my VIN qualifies for the PCM update, not the climate control h/w swap. My fuel economy is pretty good , averaging at 7.7-8.0 L/100km, which is not bad, especially on new winter tires. So I am just concerned if there are some cars that have something specific to them (leaky injectors, etc..) or if everyone has this issues, but it depends on external factors like pressure, driver habits, etc...
My 2017 does mostly short trips and the oil usually smells like gas. I've changed my oil a few times and get about .4 to .5 quarts more out than I put in. During a long drive this summer I checked my oil and there was no hint of gas - looked and smelled like oil. I say this only to confirm what has been said here already. Short trips contribute to this issue and long drives minimize it. The problem probably still exists, but the long drive burns the gas out of the oil. I don't know how significant this is. Its probably not ideal to have that much gas in your oil but only time will tell if it causes a problem. It's a bummer for me, I like the vehicle and was looking forward to driving it for a long time. Now I don't know if I'm worrying about nothing or if I should be unloading this thing.
 

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Why do you baby the engine like this?
Never getting past 2300 rpm?
You are contributing to the issue at hand..
Well, with the cvt, and econ in D tranny mode, I would have to floor it to ever reach those RPMs. I don't baby it in the sense that I get passed by everyone left and right. I drive it normally, and generally don't surpass 110 km/h on the highway.

Now for the warm up, especially in the morning, you do raise an interesting point. Is it (1) better to put it in "S" tranny mode for instance to bring the operating temps to normal, or (2) drive it like normal until it warms up? This morning, with temps below 0C, it took a looong time to warm up. It just wouldn't reach normal operating temps. I had to switch it in "S" to have the engine heat up faster. That did the trick.

I am not sure what I can do once the temps reach in the -20/-30C here...
 

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I wonder if they increased the fuel at start up and or driving?....over the last 2 weeks since fix when I first start up to back out of the garage....it smells really rich or something....never did that before and both tail pipe have lots of soot now showing on the tips,,,,have had it for a year and never seen it this bad?.....this is a reply to post below
hmm, that makes me wonder if the "fix" makes you fail emmisions..........wonderful
 

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I'm still waiting here in NJ for the fix to be available, but I would greatly appreciate it if someone with the fix, and about 2,000 miles or so on the car, would pull some oil and send it in for analysis.
 

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I wonder if they increased the fuel at start up and or driving?....over the last 2 weeks since fix when I first start up to back out of the garage....it smells really rich or something....never did that before and both tail pipe have lots of soot now showing on the tips,,,,have had it for a year and never seen it this bad?.....this is a reply to post below
Soot is very common for this gen CRV. Before fix too.
 

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Well, with the cvt, and econ in D tranny mode, I would have to floor it to ever reach those RPMs. I don't baby it in the sense that I get passed by everyone left and right. I drive it normally, and generally don't surpass 110 km/h on the highway.

Now for the warm up, especially in the morning, you do raise an interesting point. Is it (1) better to put it in "S" tranny mode for instance to bring the operating temps to normal, or (2) drive it like normal until it warms up? This morning, with temps below 0C, it took a looong time to warm up. It just wouldn't reach normal operating temps. I had to switch it in "S" to have the engine heat up faster. That did the trick.

I am not sure what I can do once the temps reach in the -20/-30C here...
Sport mode is better for warm up. No doubt about it. I leave it in Sport mode whenever in town. Almost zero difference in mileage for City driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It's confirmed that my CRV has the oil dilution issue. When I found out that my oil was reeked with fuel during an oil change, I wasn't sure my CRV also had the issue or just the normal GDI fuel-smelly oil condition that other people on this forum have been adamant about. So after the oil change, I noted that my oil level was between the dots on the orange dipstick. That was 1000 miles ago. After my weekend 240 miles round trip, I checked the oil this morning and it was 1/2 inch higher on the dipstick. Luckily I did not fill the oil all the way up to full or otherwise I have to suck some of that diluted oil out. Not good. So this Honda bull crap about long drives burning up the gas turned out to be just that. While I'm waiting for my turn to come, I don't have high hope it's going to be fixed. Maybe I just have to bite the bullet and trade it in for a BMW. I know the BMW will give me problems but at least it would be a blast to drive.
 

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My fix was done about 1 week ago and I have a mixed feeling if it works. Oil level is OK but still smells like gas. Today temp was 15f it took 7 miles to get the gauge to move to 3/8 heat...ave. speed 39 mph.....if you slowed down temp gauge would drop. Once up to 50-60 mph would would be fine.
 

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Here's a question

Our dealer said this is the same engine that's in other models and they haven't seen it happen in those at all like the Accord, this does lead me to believe that it's a programming issue not design, they may have criss cross problems with computers during colder weather or something else that makes it run rich or the injectors are shooting way too early or late or both under certain conditions that is a programming problem ony in certain CR-Vs

your thoughts?
If you spend some time on the CivicX forum, you’ll find quite a bit of discussion about fuel dilution in the 1.5T versions. I don’t think this issue is unique to the CRV but CRV complaints may be more visible because of sales volume.
 

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If you spend some time on the CivicX forum, you’ll find quite a bit of discussion about fuel dilution in the 1.5T versions. I don’t think this issue is unique to the CRV but CRV complaints may be more visible because of sales volume.

Is the horsepower rating for the CR-V the highest HP rating of the 1.5T engines used by Honda sold in the USA? If so, I wonder if derating the engine would improve some of the fuel dilution problem, which don't seem to be as bad on the Civics.

Just Wondering, that's all.
 
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