Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter September's CR-V of the month Challenge HERE
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought my 2000 CRV used a few months ago and was aware of 2 (what I was thought were “minor”) rust patches. Only to come out of work today to find it like this! I’m honestly new to cars and have no idea where to even begin or if this is even a DIY fix I can get a friend to do. Is it worth it to go to a body shop to fix? Should I just leave it? The right side of the bumper is currently zip tied to the car since I got it. 🤦🏽‍♀️
Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle
Any and all help is much appreciated!
 

·
Registered
1997, 2 owners, 300,000km
Joined
·
18 Posts
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle


Use a flashlight - if it looks like this you probably need some professional help! (Also, it will sound like your engine ingested mating possums if the pipe is broken entirely like this!)

If it's just body rust - the wheel wells on mine were getting as rusty as yours and got fixed at a body shop some years ago, you have more DIY options. How handy are you/would you like to be? Did you buy this car because you wanted to spend some quality hands on time with it yourself? Do you live in an area with snow, road salt, or ocean salt?

There's various rust killers and rust inhibiting primers you can use, depending on how deep it goes and how much loose rust you can get off, then use your colour match paint on top.

Don't take your car to an automatic car wash to clean it up before you do the work, you might lose the piece on the other side. "Parts falling off" is why I won't take any car of any age to a non-touchless car wash anymore!

If you can't find enough solid metal left to screw it back on securely, Clear Gorilla tape holds non-load-bearing plastic on remarkably well, but I can't say what removing it will do to your paint job when you find a better solution - when I used it as a temporary bumper repair on another vehicle until I got a long enough bolt I just painted over it, and the car went to the scrapyard with that extra reinforcement still intact. It'll still look better than with the plastic part missing, though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The underneath of the car doesn’t look terrible surprisingly! I checked earlier and the rust is mainly on the wheel well (left side) and a small bit on the right that I want to fix before it becomes a bigger issue!

As for how handy I am I’d say I’m about a -1/10 on the handiness scale LOL, but I’m definitely willing to learn from some friends who are big into repairing and mods. I would like to spend a good few years with the car since I’ve just replaced the front wheel bearings and main drive shaft. We get a lot of snow over here which means lots of salt. 🤦🏽‍♀️ Snow comes early too so I want to try and do a fix if possible before the damage is irreversible.

I’m going to head to the store tomorrow morning to find that gorilla tape! I know I’ll have to paint a large section anyway if I do fix it so having to paint a bit extra is not a big deal for me!

thank you SO much for your help I really appreciate it!
View attachment 157400

Use a flashlight - if it looks like this you probably need some professional help! (Also, it will sound like your engine ingested mating possums if the pipe is broken entirely like this!)

If it's just body rust - the wheel wells on mine were getting as rusty as yours and got fixed at a body shop some years ago, you have more DIY options. How handy are you/would you like to be? Did you buy this car because you wanted to spend some quality hands on time with it yourself? Do you live in an area with snow, road salt, or ocean salt?

There's various rust killers and rust inhibiting primers you can use, depending on how deep it goes and how much loose rust you can get off, then use your colour match paint on top.

Don't take your car to an automatic car wash to clean it up before you do the work, you might lose the piece on the other side. "Parts falling off" is why I won't take any car of any age to a non-touchless car wash anymore!

If you can't find enough solid metal left to screw it back on securely, Clear Gorilla tape holds non-load-bearing plastic on remarkably well, but I can't say what removing it will do to your paint job when you find a better solution - when I used it as a temporary bumper repair on another vehicle until I got a long enough bolt I just painted over it, and the car went to the scrapyard with that extra reinforcement still intact. It'll still look better than with the plastic part missing, though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,027 Posts
The rear wheel well rust is ubiquitous.

I have fixed mine a few times lol. This time I hope it lasts at least a few years before coming back. I made a thread on it called “body work. What a PITA.”

Next time I would try Eastman rust converter after getting rid of as much rust as possible, before body work and primer and paint etc.

Some people will say the only real way to fix it is to cut it back to good metal and weld in a new panel. Isearched online and there aren’t panels to be had, and the cost would be prohibitive.

your best bet is to make it pretty good, not perfect. Lots of good time in my thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The rear wheel well rust is ubiquitous.

I have fixed mine a few times lol. This time I hope it lasts at least a few years before coming back. I made a thread on it called “body work. What a PITA.”

Next time I would try Eastman rust converter after getting rid of as much rust as possible, before body work and primer and paint etc.

Some people will say the only real way to fix it is to cut it back to good metal and weld in a new panel. Isearched online and there aren’t panels to be had, and the cost would be prohibitive.

your best bet is to make it pretty good, not perfect. Lots of good time in my thread.
I’ll have to check it out more tomorrow, but a lot of great info in there thank you!!
 

·
Registered
1997, 2 owners, 300,000km
Joined
·
18 Posts
You will see the outline of the tape through your paint. If you want it to look decent, just toss the part in the trunk for now - maybe label which side with some masking tape in case you lose the other one too. Sand off the rust until it's decently smooth - again, paint does not hide texture - if you can get a rust converter/primer that doesn't need to be used over bare metal. It'll depend on what's available near you and if you want spray or brush, but the stuff does exist and work to some extent over existing rust if there's spots you're afraid you'll break right through.

Since it's not already the middle of winter you've got enough time to do a decent but easy job, if you like you can try something fancier when the other side falls off!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You will see the outline of the tape through your paint. If you want it to look decent, just toss the part in the trunk for now - maybe label which side with some masking tape in case you lose the other one too. Sand off the rust until it's decently smooth - again, paint does not hide texture - if you can get a rust converter/primer that doesn't need to be used over bare metal. It'll depend on what's available near you and if you want spray or brush, but the stuff does exist and work to some extent over existing rust if there's spots you're afraid you'll break right through.

Since it's not already the middle of winter you've got enough time to do a decent but easy job, if you like you can try something fancier when the other side falls off!
Yea the part is currently sitting in the trunk! The right side of the car seems to be holding up much better. The rust patch is about the size of a quarter so I’m crossing my fingers that it won’t have to be as much work. Knowing my luck though; it will be. I’ve been watching a lot of tutorials and they all stress the importance of sanding! So I’ll make sure to get multiple different grits to make sure I get it really smooth. I’ll check the stores tomorrow morning and hopefully get it at least started over the long weekend!
 

·
Registered
1997, 2 owners, 300,000km
Joined
·
18 Posts
Yea the part is currently sitting in the trunk! The right side of the car seems to be holding up much better. The rust patch is about the size of a quarter so I’m crossing my fingers that it won’t have to be as much work. Knowing my luck though; it will be. I’ve been watching a lot of tutorials and they all stress the importance of sanding! So I’ll make sure to get multiple different grits to make sure I get it really smooth. I’ll check the stores tomorrow morning and hopefully get it at least started over the long weekend!
I could show you a picture of some rust paint gore, but it's on my old phone...just imagine the more jagged pictures of moon landscapes you've seen. It was providing my car some protection from road salt, and it was more car coloured than rust coloured, but it wasn't pretty! (I didn't use thick enough paint over it that rust would cause further bubbling, it looked bad freshly done, but outside of welding it was the only option there.)

I got one type of rust killer/converter from Amazon that I couldn't find in Canadian Tire or Walmart, that doesn't need perfectly bare metal but I can't remember which one it was, other than I believe it was a black spray. I haven't used the rust converter in the white bottle from Canadian Tire correctly as a wipe off remover so I don't know how well it works. Not sure why I was just dabbing it on little rust spots and leaving it like skincare for cars...:rolleyes:
 

·
Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
Joined
·
14,182 Posts
POR-15 is a proven protective rust coating. (POR = Paint Over Rust)



Several nearby hardware stores sell it.

You need to apply it into the INSIDE too.

++++++++++

That rust is a SYMPTOM, not the PROBLEM. Check the rubber-covered seam along the edge of the roof...if you find any potential cracks, seal with a FLOWABLE windshield sealer like Permatex 81730.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,027 Posts
POR-15 is a proven protective rust coating. (POR = Paint Over Rust)



Several nearby hardware stores sell it.

You need to apply it into the INSIDE too.

++++++++++

That rust is a SYMPTOM, not the PROBLEM. Check the rubber-covered seam along the edge of the roof...if you find any potential cracks, seal with a FLOWABLE windshield sealer like Permatex 81730.
is this seam beneath the black strips that cover the roof rack mounting channel?
 

·
Registered
99 CR-V
Joined
·
191 Posts
Where are you at? If you are in the rust-belt...I'm not sure that it is worth it. But, all of the above is a good idea.

If you are where it it is dry. Get your cordless drill, or get you a cordless drill and drill some holes. Screw, wire, or zip-tie that part back in to place and be happy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I would take care of the exhaust leak. Can get a catback exhaust for that car on ebay for like $230.Not a fun install since you have a good amount of rust may need a torch to get the bolts hot enough or just cut them off with a grinder. Good double face tape for the trim. Do all the basic maintenance 1st to prevent break downs. Sucks breaking down on a cold winter night. Make sure timing belt, water pump has been changed in the last 10 yrs or 100000 miles. If that belt breaks major work to fix $$$ Oil , coolant, and transmission fluid has been changed? For ATF use Honda or Valvoline max life both work fine. New spark plugs in the last 60,000 miles. Check/replace engine coolant (Blue) not green. If its green drain and fill with blue. Check all the belts and hoses. This is a plus 20 yr old vehicle. I have a 2001 with a 176000 miles bought it new. Rust on these generations always in the wheel wells.
Also good idea to get the valves adjusted before they get to tight and burn a valve. They can adjust valves when you get timing belt done. Good luck.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top