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Discussion Starter #1
Hey gang, new to this club, been a long time member of accord forums.

I have a question. Has anyone gone into the developer menu and have some neat hacks for our Touch Display Unit?

The idea is to off the auto noise cancellation, as well as displaying video files on the head unit.

Also I am looking to upgrade the grounding points on this vehicles engine, I'm thinking of beefing up the 2 engine grounds (near each strut tower), and adding a 4 guage ground to the alternator. Should free up 0.4 volts and give an extra mpg on the hwy.

your thoughts?

Thx in advance.
 

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If you could get an entire highway mpg my installing some thicker cables, every automaker in the country would not hesitate for one second to do so; that'd be a nearly free way of getting closer to CAFE targets. I'm sure the existing grounds are sufficient. The engine requires very little current to work.

To see if the ANC really makes any difference for what you are trying to accomplish, the module you are looking for is mounted on the right side of the car next to the glove box; you could try unplugging it. Don't know if that'll kill all the sound or just disable ANC and whatever "active sound" is.
 

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I am not quite sure how this ".4V will give the car an additional 1 MPG. Can someone explain the science behind that?

There are times when additional ground paths are added to vehicles. Usually its when some high draw electrical accessories have been added however. Or, in come cases we have repaired factory defects when there were production errors on a certain model car.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i've owned a few vehicles where by increasing the ground point, it promoted electrical circulation, which meant lower resistance for components to work, meaning less draw (parasitic usage) from the alternator, freeing up a minor amount of power lost by this device from the engine, thus enabling the engine to run lighter, in essence making it work less in the same circumstances.
 

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ANC module only disable ANC. I had to disable it when I install sub otherwise I would get 4 thumbing sounds from sub every time I start the car.
 

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i've owned a few vehicles where by increasing the ground point, it promoted electrical circulation, which meant lower resistance for components to work, meaning less draw (parasitic usage) from the alternator, freeing up a minor amount of power lost by this device from the engine, thus enabling the engine to run lighter, in essence making it work less in the same circumstances.
The thing is, the engine itself requires very little current (this is why you can drive a car quite a while with no alternator, as long as you shut down as many accessories as possible.) The engine grounds service the ignition system and some valves and sensors, and maybe a small motor or two (like the throttle body.) Given that each of those things is generally fed with standard 22-gauge wire, the idea that you'll need even more wire than the fat bundle that is already there in order to reduce parasitic loss by more than a couple watts doesn't make sense.

Did you actually record the alternator producing significantly less current when you did this? (It'd be easy enough to test... clamp an ammeter on the positive alternator lead, and see if anything happens when attaching the new ground.)

The larger draws, lighting, fans, sound, steering, etc., all ground somewhere else.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
In my 6th gen accord prior to adding a system, it was one of the first quick modifications I did. Noted my lights did not dim as much when the rear defroster/ac/accessories were on.

Resting Voltage went from 12.4 to 12.7
Engine on Voltage went from 14.1 to 14.5
vehicle was purchased new in oct of 2002, this was done during dec 2002.

8th gen civic (R18 engine).
Resting voltage went from 12.1 to 12.4
Engine on Voltage went from 13.9 to 14.2
this was done in summer of 2016
 

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Were these voltage readings at the battery terminal?

Because adding engine grounds shouldn't affect engine-off voltage even a bit; you could provide sufficient grounding with bell wire, or no ground at all, for that matter (there should be zero current going through the engine when it's off...)

And engine-on voltage at the battery terminal? Why would you measure that if messing with grounds? That's a test of alternator output (and the alternator lead), not ground sufficiency. If you are going to run voltage tests at all, you should measure voltage drop between the ground point of your choice and the negative battery terminal. Not to mention, that if your battery terminal voltage increases when you add a ground, it means there's a greater voltage drop across the system than before. That's not a good thing. (V = I x R)... if you decrease R, and V goes up for some reason, it means you have MORE current flowing. That's the exact opposite of what said you are going for.

If your theory is that you are making things better by reducing parasitic current loss, the test you would need to run would be current tests on the alternator lead to show that it's producing less amperage. (And watching it go up and down as you connect and disconnect the new ground.) Makes sense, right? If your purported benefit is lower current, current is what you should be measuring... A cheap clamping ammeter is the tool to use here. (You'll blow a cheap multimeter trying to measure that kind of current.)
 
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