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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, i own a 2009 crv 4wd, at 106 kmile; iam having a transimission shudder at speed about 40 km/h & about 80 km/h, just when i press more pedal above these speeds, the shudder disappear, what could be the reason behind this issue?
I have read many discussions about toqrue converter, some says change transimission oil twice....
Note: i have bought this car when it was about 98 kmile, and untill now never changed the transimission oil , when i checked it, it was clean red oil i color and to the normal level.
 

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Light throttle shudder? I would look into replacing your third and fourth gear solenoids.
 

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Hi, can I ask what this shudder feels like when driving....? Does it feel a bit like you are driving ober or along the marks left in the road by lets say a bull dozzer...? Because that is the slight shuddering I am getting at low speeds also, around the 64kmph speed. As soon as I change it from this speed it goes away also. My wife has been complaining about it for a while and everytime I go to check for it, I can't get it to happen. BUT it did yesterday...lol.
I do not have the flashing drive light on it's remaining solid. Is yours flashing?

Is this the only thing that can cause this shuddering...? If so I'll change it out asap, before winter sets in.

Thanks for the information for a comparisn.
I hate throwing parts and money at vehicles and not fixing the root issues. These forums are priceless for the help they give us. Again thanks for that.

Jonathan
 

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yes that's what a shudder is. And if doing it do not wait takes 10 minutes to drain and refill the transmission. Make sure to put the correct new fluid in.

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OK, great to hear....what transmission fluid does everyone use? No I haven't researched that yet, thought as I was thanking, i would simply ask.
I'll do a tran filter at the same time if I need to drain the trans.....and refill with new. I can do anything needed here just hate working in the winter if i can't find room inside the shop after it gets filled up with the other toys. lol
 

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Use Honda fluid to be safe. DW1.

Drain is a drain plug nothing more. Only filter to change is the little external one that's on the cooler lines, internal large filter cannot be changed without completely disassembling the transmission.

Cheers

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Thanks, just back from dealership with oils and crush gaskets.....now to get under it , figures it's snowing and now soaking wet....but at least it'll be warm...lol.
Thanks for the help. Oh, I haven't ordered solinoid yet, checking to see if just the fluid change will stop the shuddering. This was also explained to me by service guy at Honda....go figure, they opted out of a repair charge for some free advice....makes me wonder...lol. Dealerships in my experience do not give out free anything. Even advice on how to not spend $460 plus labour at their shop, not that I would but if I didn't know better I would have! Hmmm.....? Is Honda different...?
 

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Depends on the dealership. Some do it in good faith so next time you need something you come back.

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OK done, simple as expected except the rear end didn't take much oil at all, just over a litre and it came dribbling out of top fill hole....hmmmmmmm.....? I have 3/4 of a litre left...?

Now searching for required amount to make sure it's close to correct...? Car was perfectly level and on no stands, good thing I'm not fatter than I thought I was...lol.
 

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ok I thought you were changing the transmission fluid not the rear differential. The rear just as long as it started to dribble out the fill hole your good.

Now did you change your transmission fluid already?

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Yes changed both while I was at it, can't be too carefull.....lol. Simply as a maintenance thing on the rear end fluid.....I'm an old Jeep owner from 35 years ago, so this fill and drain thing isn't a new concept......just surprised at how little the rear diff took in the end. But after researching further it was correct. I haven't had chance yet to drive on a smooth enough road to see if it does it still, but today I have to pick up family from airport so I have a 2 hour drive.....it should happen sometime for sure on that drive.....if still happening. IF it does the soliniod will be next.....Ebay will be my next purchase...lol.
Thanks again for all the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hello there the shudder your javing is smimilar to.mine, also i took it twice to be checked but shudder did not happened, but untill now it os still happening, they told me keep driving it, and it will going to be more shudder , they think something related to front wheel car lifts.
But what do you mean by the flashing drive light.
 

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the letter "D" on the dash starts flashing.

As for what your talking about beyond that, none of it makes any sense, what are front wheel lifts?

As well as a transmission shudder is VERY DIFFERENT than any other shake that the vehicle makes, only does it at certain times

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IF it feels like you are driving over the rumble strips on the side of the highway but not so bad......I suggest spending the money at the dealewrship and change your fluid with what they recommend and install a new crush washer.....if it keeps doing it after that I then suggest changing out that twin actuator valve on the front of the transmission, seems easy enough to do, just time consuming. I think mine is dealt with so far but if it starts shuddering again then it'll get the change out of that part for sure.
 

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So has anyone been able to solve this problem. Either by changing the twin actuator or replacing the 3rd or fourth gear solenoid. I have done the tranny fluid twice.
 

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I suggest to cease trying to rely on the internet to magically fix issues (and people wasting money) and take it to a proper shop and have it sorted out.

Just because 1 person gets lucky means there are 100s that wasted a bunch of money only to have to pay a shop anyway.

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I would take the kiddo's '02 Accord to a shop, if I could find one to trust. (This is the dreaded B7XA transmission.) When you drive into most of them, they either want to replace it or rebuild it, without even lifting a finger to do even the most basic of troubleshooting. In other words, they'll drive it for 30 seconds and say it needs a rebuild. Even the dealers are like that--the service manual has an entire section on troubleshooting, and I have yet to hear of a dealer that has actually ever used it. I need to do a couple more drain-and-fills on it yet, and also check the solenoid screens to be sure they are not clogged. (The ones I checked all test out properly, and also activate when voltage is applied, but they also have small screens on some of them.)

So, that is at least one reason why I'd rather troubleshoot it myself first. At least until I find an honest shop that actually knows what they are doing. (Vs. those who throw parts at a problem until it goes away.)
 

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Take it to an actual transmission shop. You cant shotgun parts at a transmission. Any decent trans shop will have a proper scan tool that can check pressures and check solenoids.

There is 2 things that kill those transmissions is improper fluid changes (not doing drain and fills) and the stupid puck heat exchanger allowing the transmission to overheat when driven hard.

We just rebuild one of those a few weeks ago. Internal filter was mostly plugged.

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