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Discussion Starter #1
2001 CRV, B20z engine. Just adjusted my valves, and I was able to get my intake valve clearance to spec (although I had to loosen the adjustment screw all the way for most).

The exhaust side is a different story. I have all adjustment screws loosened as far as possible, and i am only able to get a 0.20mm feeler through with significant drag. It is MUCH better than it was when I opened the valve cover, but still, this is troubling...

I would appreciate any insight you guys may have. I followed directions to a T using the repair manual and supplementing with YouTube.



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Discussion Starter #4
My first guess is that you didn't have the engine at the correct position for adjusting the valves.
Cylinders 1, 3, 4, and 2 at up arrow positions 12:00, 9:00, 6:00 and 3:00, respectively. According to the Honda repair manual.


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+1 on racoon's comment.
Buffalo4
PS: Remember that the crankshaft turns over TWICE for EACH SINGLE turn of the camshafts.
Perhaps that is why you are running into your problem. You need to adj the valves on the top of the COMPRESSION stroke and NOT on the top of the EXHAUST stroke.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
+1 on racoon's comment.
Buffalo4
PS: Remember that the crankshaft turns over TWICE for EACH SINGLE turn of the camshafts.
Perhaps that is why you are running into your problem. You need to adj the valves on the top of the COMPRESSION stroke and NOT on the top of the EXHAUST stroke.
I get what you’re saying, but I think I’m doing it right. Valves are off lobe as they should be when measuring lash, and yes I am doing two full turns of the crank bolt to bring cylinder 1 back to TDC.
I did a search and found a video of a guy who has the same problem, and he fixes it by actually shaving a bit off the rocker arms so the screws don’t bottom out so soon. He has a rebuilt head, so his rocker arms are remanufactured.
I will look around some more, but if I don’t find anything, I will probably just button everything up. Lash is better than it was before, and new gaskets are ready to go.



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I get what you’re saying, but I think I’m doing it right. Valves are off lobe as they should be when measuring lash, and yes I am doing two full turns of the crank bolt to bring cylinder 1 back to TDC.
I did a search and found a video of a guy who has the same problem, and he fixes it by actually shaving a bit off the rocker arms so the screws don’t bottom out so soon. He has a rebuilt head, so his rocker arms are remanufactured.
I will look around some more, but if I don’t find anything, I will probably just button everything up. Lash is better than it was before, and new gaskets are ready to go.



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Great post. :D
If the valves are 'off' the lobes when you are doing the lash adj, then you are doing it correctly.
If the lash on the exhaust valves is zero, than they are NOT off the lobes.
Still, if they are off the lobes, why do you need to back off to the limit of the adjustment nut to achieve the required mm lash?
If the cam lodes are wearing the clearance would be even greater, not tighter.
Something still seems amiss but I am no expert on this subject and it does seem like you are doing it correct.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Great post. :D
If the valves are 'off' the lobes when you are doing the lash adj, then you are doing it correctly.
If the lash on the exhaust valves is zero, than they are NOT off the lobes.
Still, if they are off the lobes, why do you need to back off to the limit of the adjustment nut to achieve the required mm lash?
If the cam lodes are wearing the clearance would be even greater, not tighter.
Something still seems amiss but I am no expert on this subject and it does seem like you are doing it correct.
Buffalo4
I am also confused by this. Lash on the exhaust valves is currently about 0.10mm. My thought is that maybe It has to do with the valves themselves, which would indicate a bigger problem. Maybe I need to run the engine for a while and go back in to see if I am able to adjust it better. We shall see.


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Discussion Starter #9
Buttoned everything back up, and started the engine. It started much faster than usual; usually it takes 2-3 cranks, but this time it started in 1 crank. What followed was a very disturbing and loud sound from the engine and a fast idle (1800rpm). I opened the valve cover back up, and found that the timing belt is looser than it was before. Is it normal for the timing belt to loosen after a valve adjustment?


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Discussion Starter #10
NEVERMIND! The timing belt only seemed loose at TDC for each cylinder, which is normal. What I realize is the problem, is I don’t know what Honda means by “slight drag” when using the feeler gauges.
What I think is, that my exhaust side is spot on, but my intake side is too loose. I am going to go back in (3rd time) and see if tightening the intake valves to the same feel as the exhaust will fix my problem.
I have a good feeling about this...


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If you have a set of feeler gauges, the next smaller size should slide in with no hinderance (aka drag), and the next larger won't go in at all. Another way of thinking about it is with the correct feeler gauge in place, slightly tightening the adjustment means the feeler becomes hard(er) to move and slightly loosening it means the feeler moves around easily. The correct setting you'll notice a slight hinderance to moving the gauge, but it still can easily be moved...with a slight drag. ;D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Redid everything for a 3rd time. Basically, I tightened everything until the feeler wouldn’t go through, then backed off just a bit so the feeler could go through with a little effort. Right now it feels like all clearances have significant drag, but this seems more correct to me.
Started the engine up, and it is ticking like CRAZY. Sounds like a diesel truck. Some people say this is normal. Thoughts?


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Discussion Starter #14
A 1st Gen CR-V engine with correctly adjusted valves should sound like a sewing machine.
A quiet 1st Gen engine tells you the valves are too tight.
Definitely sounds like a sewing machine lol...if I were to post a video, could you tell me what you think?


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Sounds about right for one that the lash is set a little loose (which is not a bad thing on these). Getting valve lash perfect is an art form. And perfect is far from needed. A little loose is far better than a little tight (tight you can burn valves).

Sounds like you got it so go have a beer and relax.

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
I won’t let this be the final product. I am doing it one last time, and this time I will put the feeler gauge in the gap and tighten the clearance until it binds completely, then back off a tiny bit so I can pull out the feeler with resistance.
Does anyone know if the intake valves tend to be noisier, or the exhaust?
This kind of sound is unacceptable.


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The valve adjustment specs call for a range, not a single clearance number.
Set the exhaust valves to the "looser" end of the range, as they tend to tighten over time.

And plan on checking the valve clearances again in 30,000 miles.
 
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