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2008 2.2cdti AWD EX-L
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In process of replacing front discs & brake pads - No issues getting the caliper & old pads removed, however hit a brick wall trying to loosen the 2 x 17mm bolts holding the caliper bracket on ( need to remove to get disc off). Tried with 3/8in drive ratchet , however ratchet sheered off at 3/8in drive bit. Tried hammering it to see if any rust etc would loosen, Tried a 17mm spanner with a steel tube to provide extra torque, however now the bolts are giving way and slipping (points are roundiing).
Any thoughts on what can be done to loosen them enough ? I do not want to end of destroying the bolts to the extent they need drilled out. What I thought was going to be a relatively easy job is turning in a nightmare - might need to bite the bullet and put it into a garage :(.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Penitrating oil, let rest, heat with torch, impact wrench or box wrench and mallet...........................................................
I did apply wd40 and let it soak for a while , however was a multi-point (>6) deep socket I was also trying, however I also think it would be better with a six point socket and non-deep to get enough torque onto the bolt head - will look to see if I can get a box wrench.
 

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malt56 said:
I did apply wd40 and let it soak for a while
Regular WD40 is a Water Dispersant, not a penetrating oil but perhaps you used the correct type.

  • Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil. ...
  • WD-40 490026 Multi-Use Penetrating Oil. ...
  • Liquid Wrench L134-4PK Penetrating Oil. ...
 

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2008 2.2cdti AWD EX-L
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Partial success - bought a breaker bar & 6 point socket and finally got the bracket removed and thought I was on home straight to get new disc on - only 2 screws which should be just over finger tight to remove - applied wd40 penetrating oil/left a while - managed to get 1 screw free but the other one must have been put in with some amount of torque - no matter how much hammering/turning the screw is not for budging , screw starting to become damaged- only tried one side - god knows what pitfalls I will encounter on other side :(. Re-assembled the car and again looking to offload the issue to a garage
 

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I had to buy an impact driver to get those screws out. But I realized that the Philips screws are actually JIS spec, so the bits I had still tore them up a little.
 
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Well, good job on noticing the JIS spec on those screws and getting them out with an impact driver.
I just read again that you SHOULD put those screws back in as they center the rotor perfectly. Also, be sure to use some anti-seize on the threads when you reinstall them.
Many others say you don't need to install them at all. So??
Hopefully the rest of your project goes smoothly.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Invested in an impact driver - will try again tomorrow - need to understand comment re JIS spec.
 

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2010 EX-L (AWD, non-Nav)
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Invested in an impact driver - will try again tomorrow - need to understand comment re JIS spec.
JIS screws/screwdrivers look very much like Phillips, but they are different. Phillips screwdrivers are designed to cam-out of the screw head; JIS is not. This is partly why Phillips screwedriver tips don't work well in JIS screws.

JIS screwdrivers are somewhat hard to find, but online sites like Amazon have them. In the case of the disk screws, you want JIS #3.
 

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In process of replacing front discs & brake pads - No issues getting the caliper & old pads removed, however hit a brick wall trying to loosen the 2 x 17mm bolts holding the caliper bracket on ( need to remove to get disc off). Tried with 3/8in drive ratchet , however ratchet sheered off at 3/8in drive bit. Tried hammering it to see if any rust etc would loosen, Tried a 17mm spanner with a steel tube to provide extra torque, however now the bolts are giving way and slipping (points are roundiing).
Any thoughts on what can be done to loosen them enough ? I do not want to end of destroying the bolts to the extent they need drilled out. What I thought was going to be a relatively easy job is turning in a nightmare - might need to bite the bullet and put it into a garage :(.
You can't use a spanner or 12 point socket to loosen something that is supposed to be torked that much. You need a half inch drive ratchett and a 6 point socket. If you're still having a problem rent and inductive heater. A spanner and 12 point socket will just tear stuff up as will a 3 eights inch drive ratchet, and you should never hammer on any of that stuff
 

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I had the same thing happen on my 2005 Pilot. One bolt was so tight none of my wrenches could loosen it. The head rounded. I tried everything including torching it and all sorts of special tools for rounded bolts.

I don't know where I got the idea, but its seems obvious now. I cut down the head of the bolt to make two flat sides using a cutoff tool (I think). Then with two relatively long flat sides I took a very big adjustable wrench and was able to get enough purchase on the bolt and enough force using the wrench to release the bolt. Of course I had to replace the bolt, but by that time the bolt head was so damaged it was not usable anyway. I would use penetrating oil and let it sit for a while.
 

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If your just trying to get the rotor rusted screw off, just drill them out, they're not really needed. I was told that the rotor screws are just for the production assembly line. This is what I did only my oder 2005 CRV and never had a problem not having rotor screws. Of course, maybe on the newer CRV models, I could be wrong.
 

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If your just trying to get the rotor rusted screw off, just drill them out, they're not really needed. I was told that the rotor screws are just for the production assembly line. This is what I did only my oder 2005 CRV and never had a problem not having rotor screws. Of course, maybe on the newer CRV models, I could be wrong.
Heat the bolts they put a thread sealer on them so they will not loosen up You need to heat them to melt the sealer same probably with the rotor screws
 

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Just some info for the next time you try to “break” loose larger bolts like those that mount the caliper support to the spindle.
Never use a ratchet to “break” loose really tight fasteners. Always use a “breaker“ bar. In this case, a 1/2” drive breaker bar, not a 3/8” drive and preferably 18 to 24” long.
So much easier and you won’t destroy your ratchet.
i have a 24” for everything and an 18” for tight quarters.
 
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