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My 2007 CR-V has been making this sound like an unbalanced wheel. But I know it's not the wheels has the issue was there before I changed all 4 tires, balanced and 4 wheel alignment, and is still there now. I also replaced the bearing assembly for both sides on the front. The sound gets louder and louder until it reaches max volume between 40-50 mph. It quiets down after 50 but you can still hear it in the background of the road noise.

I have brought it in to my usual repair guy and he suggested the bearing replacement. The Honda dealer has done many "multi-point inspections" and everything comes back as good. I will try to upload a recording of the sound soon.

I am at a lost of where else to look. I want to say it's coming from the front of the vehicle, but I can't be sure. Hopefully someone else has had this problem before and can point me in the right direction.
 

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Unfortunately this Could be a host of things. Just some information to try and help:

If I remember correctly these have a carrier bearing, and if the front end is vibrating pretty bad, very well could be that.

Also in reference to the hub bearings:
even though you’ve had the bearings replaced doesn’t mean they aren’t bad. I’ve had many bad bearing affiliated parts brand new from parts store that I’ve had to R&R.

One way to help diagnose a bad hub assembly:
1.) take caliper and rotor off
2.) grab hub assembly, and check for positive/negative camber movement. There shouldn't be any play. Some people will do this with the tire still mounted on the car just elevated. I prefer doing it at the hub. Unfortunately the hubs can still technically be “bad” without camber play. Some of The bearings could be seized. The way to check that would be to put the trans in neutral, (with tire elevated) and spin the hub. feel for any grabbing, or non free movement if that makes sense. You will feel some clicking from the axle being connected to the trans but that will be uniform in feel through the complete rotation of hub; but you shouldn’t feel any resistance in a certain spot.

One way I was taught to tell if a bad hub is in the front:

Get the vehicle on a flat road, turn off all extra noise I.e. radio, A/c. Bring vehicle to speed where the noise is the loudest, then slightly pull the wheel to the left, and listen if the noise it gets louder, then to the right while keeping the same speed. Carful not to snatch and cause body roll, as this will put pressure on the rear as well. The idea is to place more pressure on the potentially effected hub(s). This also can narrow if it’s one side or both sides.

I would start with the listed above. While your at it, check all of your bushings on the front end. Inner-outer tie rod bushings, ball joints, etc..

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Unfortunately this Could be a host of things. Just some information to try and help:

If I remember correctly these have a carrier bearing, and if the front end is vibrating pretty bad, very well could be that.

Also in reference to the hub bearings:
even though you’ve had the bearings replaced doesn’t mean they aren’t bad. I’ve had many bad bearing affiliated parts brand new from parts store that I’ve had to R&R.

One way to help diagnose a bad hub assembly:
1.) take caliper and rotor off
2.) grab hub assembly, and check for positive/negative camber movement. There shouldn't be any play. Some people will do this with the tire still mounted on the car just elevated. I prefer doing it at the hub. Unfortunately the hubs can still technically be “bad” without camber play. Some of The bearings could be seized. The way to check that would be to put the trans in neutral, (with tire elevated) and spin the hub. feel for any grabbing, or non free movement if that makes sense. You will feel some clicking from the axle being connected to the trans but that will be uniform in feel through the complete rotation of hub; but you shouldn’t feel any resistance in a certain spot.

One way I was taught to tell if a bad hub is in the front:

Get the vehicle on a flat road, turn off all extra noise I.e. radio, A/c. Bring vehicle to speed where the noise is the loudest, then slightly pull the wheel to the left, and listen if the noise it gets louder, then to the right while keeping the same speed. Carful not to snatch and cause body roll, as this will put pressure on the rear as well. The idea is to place more pressure on the potentially effected hub(s). This also can narrow if it’s one side or both sides.

I would start with the listed above. While your at it, check all of your bushings on the front end. Inner-outer tie rod bushings, ball joints, etc..

Hope this helps!
Thanks for the detailed answer. I will try that out to see if it is still the bearings. One thing I left out is that my steering wheel is solid. It doesn't vibrate at all and runs straight and true from stop to over 75+. Even when it's at max noise between 40-50 mph, the steering wheel is very steady.

Time to check all of the front suspension... =(
 

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Thanks for the detailed answer. I will try that out to see if it is still the bearings. One thing I left out is that my steering wheel is solid. It doesn't vibrate at all and runs straight and true from stop to over 75+. Even when it's at max noise between 40-50 mph, the steering wheel is very steady.

Time to check all of the front suspension... =(
No worries, I understand how aggravating it can Be. Even though the wheel is solid, Can you feel anything in the wheel, or is it more in the floor where your feet are? Is the car itself vibrating but not feeling it in the steering wheel?

Another thing to note is does the noise change/get louder when you hit bumps, crevices in the road? Does the noise get louder/ change when heavily applying the brakes?

Another long shot but are you near middle Ga by chance? I work on vehicles on the side here in middle Ga.
 

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You might want to try the propeller shaft--one symptom in the first generation CR-Vs was that the propeller shaft would get noisy and/or vibrate around 45 MPH, with little or nothing lower or higher than that speed. It shouldn't be too difficult to remove on the 3rd generation CR-V. On the first generation, you had to remove the safety hoops and center carrier bearing, and then unbolt the propeller shaft at both ends. Mine had fasteners that were "starred" but I believe they were simply made for 12-point sockets, as mine fit right on and loosened them. With the shaft removed, try driving it and see if the noise goes away. If so, the universal joints are probably worn out. I don't know if they can be replaced or not, or if the entire propeller shaft needs to be replaced. Worst case, the u-joint will fail and the shaft will come unattached, which can tear up the yokes. (The safety hoop prevents the shaft from falling onto the road.)

It's a free way to test it out, so it might be worth looking at.
 
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