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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to get the valves adjusted, and what a nightmare. Got cylinder 1 complete, but not without complications. Now trying to do cylinder 3 and it's not having it. The jam nut turns freely, but the adjuster will not turn. I have taken the jam nut all the way off of one, and the adjuster still will not turn. I used a wrench for added torque on a screwdriver and broke the screwdriver. I have a feeling they have never been adjusted, and the only way I will get this done is to remove them totally when I do the timing belt. Totally remove the cams and rockers and try to get them to turn. Any suggestions?
 

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1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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You are making sure to turn the engine, right? You have to turn the crankshaft 1/2 turn after each cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Lochinvar, it may be hard to see, but yes it is off the lobe. Theman5, what procedure? It's a valve adjustment, nothing hard. Rotate engine so cam is off lobe. Check clearance with feeler gauge. Loosen jam nut, turn adjuster to set clearance. Tighten jam nut while holding adjuster in position. The problem is the adjuster will not turn.
 

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1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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Not trying to be insulting. It's just easy to overlook simple stuff.

With the adjuster seized up, you probably just need to replace a few rocker arms. The good thing is you don't have to remove the camshafts to replace the rocker arms.

If you have a local junkyard, that would be the place to go for some used ones (they're super expensive to get new). Also, the exhaust side rocker arms always get more wear than the intake arms, but they're the same part. My advice would be to remove only intake rocker arms, and use them for both.

To get the rocker arms out with the camshaft still installed, you need to turn the engine so that rocker arm is free (just like when you're adjusting the valve); take a long screwdriver and place it so it goes under the camshaft and on top of the valve spring cover; use the screwdriver to gently push the valve open, while lifting the adjuster end of the rocker arm and pushing it to the side, out of the adjuster seat on the head. Installation is pretty much the same as removal.

It's much easier if you turn the adjuster all the way to the left first. You can't do that on your old ones, but since that's the point of replacing them, you should only get new ones you can use the adjusters on.
 

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I'd have an ASE tech do that... too much can go wrong... too tight, burn the valves.
 

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1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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too tight, burn the valves
That's an adjustment problem, not an installation problem. If you have the skills to change your oil, you have the skills to install these rockers and adjust valves. Just make sure you set the valve lash correctly when you're done. Sounds like I'm Broke can do it.
 

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1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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If you haven't done it recently, I would recommend re-checking the crankshaft pulley bolt when you're done. The reason for this is that you are using that bolt to turn the engine while you are adjusting valves. On this engine, you have to turn it to the left, which would loosen it if it's at all loose.

I have had the crankshaft pulley bolt come loose after adjusting valves, after it was properly torqued in the first place. It was on another engine, but I would still check it.

The tool to hold the crankshaft pulley while tightening the bolt is AutoZone loaner part number 27279, "crankshaft damper holding tool."
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Loch, I have the tool for the pulley. I know about going ccw, as I do with all my Honda timing belts. Wasn't taking anything as insulting, so please don't think I was. Just pisses me off that the adjuster won't turn in the rocker. I like your idea of hitting the junkyard and getting new (to me) rockers. At the pull it yourself yards, the head is cheap enough, I might just pull the whole head, in case there are some burnt valves.
Agent0l74, I am ASE certified, which is why I'm doing the valve adjustment. The exhaust valves are way too tight, and I'm hoping the valves are not burnt already.
 
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Lochinvar, it may be hard to see, but yes it is off the lobe. Theman5, what procedure? It's a valve adjustment, nothing hard. Rotate engine so cam is off lobe. Check clearance with feeler gauge. Loosen jam nut, turn adjuster to set clearance. Tighten jam nut while holding adjuster in position. The problem is the adjuster will not turn.
As already mentioned we are trying to help via internet and know nothing per say about people asking for that help. You might know valve adjustment procedure and others their first attempt at it from watching a video.
Have you tried PB blaster? Probably not a rust issue, but it might help. Most likely threads binding. I have run into that on motorcycles before, but not on cars.
As mentioned, salvage yard trip may be in order. Recently saw a prestine interior 98 in a yard. I Didn't look in the engine compartment to well though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm not going to say I don't trust anyone, but there is a reason I do 99 percent of my own work.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Theman5, you're right. You don't have any idea about my knowledge, so you were correct in putting that out there. My main question (though probably poorly phrased) was why the damn adjuster was frozen in the rocker. Thanks. I have not tried PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench, because my thought is that it is sitting in oil all the time, it should be loose. Not sure those will help the situation. If I get another head, I'll have a bunch of spare rockers and adjusters.
 

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One more thing to try if you haven't already. Leave nut up near the end to help support the slotted end. Might allow that little extra oomph to get it free. Good quality and fit slotted driver. If room use hand impact.
You mentioned too tight. Is the valve still in contact with the adjuster? If so try to push valve down separately while turning adjuster. May turn with tension off.

Did you already do a compression check to see if a burned valve?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Took the rocker out of the head, and put it in a vice. Tried tapping the adjuster, and turning. Nothing. Finally took a vice grips to it and it loosened. Then like a dumbass, I ran the adjuster down most of the way. Noticed a thread of metal that looked like a drill shaving coming out with it. Didn't think a lot of it until I tried to run it back up. Nope, nothing. Will not turn again. It's time for a new rocker assembly at least for that valve.
I did a compression check, and it was weird. Compression would build for three cycles and then drop to zero. This is why I wanted to start with the valve adjustment and see if it improved. It may, may not. The motor has 367k on it, so if it needs another head, I'm ok with that.
 

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Trying to get the valves adjusted, and what a nightmare. Got cylinder 1 complete, but not without complications. Now trying to do cylinder 3 and it's not having it. The jam nut turns freely, but the adjuster will not turn. I have taken the jam nut all the way off of one, and the adjuster still will not turn. I used a wrench for added torque on a screwdriver and broke the screwdriver. I have a feeling they have never been adjusted, and the only way I will get this done is to remove them totally when I do the timing belt. Totally remove the cams and rockers and try to get them to turn. Any suggestions?
Know exactly the problem..
You are out of adjustment. Normal Head wear would have you tightening down on the adjuster. The heads on the 99-01 cars have a defective head. Some of the exhaust valves were drilled too deep. The seats were installed a specific height but since the head was overdrilled, the Seats are slowly getting hammered down. That is why you are loosening the adjuster. I literally played with this over the weekend. #3 exhaust valve, closest to #4 cylinder was my problem too. I took the Rocker out, took a deeper to the valve stem side of the rocker and put it back in. If you rotate the engine a bit so #3 is off of top dead center, you can carefully push down on the exhaust spring as you lift up on the adjustment side of the rocker, rocker will come out. Be very careful to push down on the spring with something that will slapping on the keepers. Don't want them to pop off.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Not quite, the adjuster does not move at all.
 

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Took the Rocker out and took a DREMEL to.....
Not quite, the adjuster does not move at all.
Looking at your pic, the adjuster is way out. Is this the first time you are adjusting these? Previous owner must have really went crazy backing the adjuster up. Maybe a handheld impact driver and hammer to get it to turn in before taking Rocker out and modifying it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yes, first time adjusting these. I just bought these two CR-V's. My guess is that this motor has never had a valve adjustment done. Cylinder 1 was tight, and I got that into spec finally. This one was tight as well, and I'll get it if I have to put in replacement rockers and adjusters. Not a big deal, just wanted to see if I was missing something, which I was not.
 
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