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I think some are getting a little ahead of what must be done. 1. Try penetrating oil on the adjuster. Leave it an hour or two to penetrate. 2. With a small hammer start tapping lightly on the adjuster and the lifter that contains the adjuster. Do that for about 10 minutes. If it is rusted in, this will help the oil and break up some of the rust. 3. Heat the lifter with a butane bottle and while heating tap the adjuster. After you get the screwdriver out of the freezer that has ben there for and hour and while the lifter is hot, try to move the adjuster while also tapping the top of the screwdriver.
Don't know why he'd need penetrating oil on it. The entire assembly is bathed in engine oil it's entire life. I've never seen rust anywhere inside the rocker cover of an engine that has a functioning lubrication system.
 

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Trying to get the valves adjusted, and what a nightmare. Got cylinder 1 complete, but not without complications. Now trying to do cylinder 3 and it's not having it. The jam nut turns freely, but the adjuster will not turn. I have taken the jam nut all the way off of one, and the adjuster still will not turn. I used a wrench for added torque on a screwdriver and broke the screwdriver. I have a feeling they have never been adjusted, and the only way I will get this done is to remove them totally when I do the timing belt. Totally remove the cams and rockers and try to get them to turn. Any suggestions?
Take it to a professional and get it done correctly.
 

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Lochinvar, it may be hard to see, but yes it is off the lobe. Theman5, what procedure? It's a valve adjustment, nothing hard. Rotate engine so cam is off lobe. Check clearance with feeler gauge. Loosen jam nut, turn adjuster to set clearance. Tighten jam nut while holding adjuster in position. The problem is the adjuster will not turn.
Id like to say add a bit of heat but that will cause a fire! use a impact spanner to break the adhesion of the rocker arm on the tappet.
 

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Don't know why he'd need penetrating oil on it. The entire assembly is bathed in engine oil it's entire life. I've never seen rust anywhere inside the rocker cover of an engine that has a functioning lubrication system.
Cause penetrating oil not just for rust. Goes places engine oil won't.
 

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99&00 CRV
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Discussion Starter #45
use a impact spanner to break the adhesion of the rocker arm on the tappet.
I would, but I don't like banging on things inside of an engine. No matter, I will just replace the rocker/adjuster. Not a big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
For what it's worth, I just did a valve adjustment on the blue one, and it took about 10 minutes. If I needed to turn an adjuster, it turned. Nothing frozen, worked just like I thought it should. I am almost positive it's never been done on the green one in its 367k miles. I will get another head this weekend, just to have one. It's looking like that's probably what is going to be needed.
 

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1998 CR-V EX 4spd auto "Big Green" completely stock with roof rack and front mud flaps
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use a impact spanner to break the adhesion of the rocker arm on the tappet
That would take the rocker arm right out of the engine real fast. The first time I removed a rocker arm, it was actually by accident while I was tightening one of the nuts. Literally the only thing keeping those things installed is that the valve pushes up on one end.
 

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. I will get another head this weekend, just to have one. It's looking like that's probably what is going to be needed.
To make your search a tad easier, you can also use the head off a 94-97 Integra B18B. They are the exact same, except for the cams, which are the same as a B20Z.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
There are 6 CRV's in the junkyards near me. Not a problem finding one. Would be kind of nice to do a turbo B18 swap, but let's be real. I'm just doing this for a hobby, I'm not racing anytime soon.
 
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Such high mileage on that engine! Damn these are built well.
 

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Dug up the info on Crank Hold Tool. SP Tools.. Schley Product #60100a. They make the tool for Honda. Much better price buying direct
 

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There are 6 CRV's in the junkyards near me. Not a problem finding one. Would be kind of nice to do a turbo B18 swap, but let's be real. I'm just doing this for a hobby, I'm not racing anytime soon.
I'd love to do an H22 or J35 swap in one of these. Even a supercharged B20 for more low end grunt.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
H might fit right in. J would be nice. The J in my Pilot would be nicer if it didn't need head gaskets.
 

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H might fit right in. J would be nice. The J in my Pilot would be nicer if it didn't need head gaskets.
Both have been done before in a CRV, and seem to fit well. H/B seems more practical since you'd most likely be able to keep AWD.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Of the two CRV's, only one has AWD. And the rear driveshaft is missing. It may end up as a parts car, haven't decided yet. I have my eye on more CRV's, so that may be the best route.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I visited two CRV's in the junkyard. Managed to get 4 rockers with adjusters that actually adjust. So, valve adjustment is done. Now to do the timing belt on the green one. Got a distributor for it as well, so it's almost ready to be running again. Tons of things wrong, but at least I'll be able to drive it around the yard.
 
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