Nice video. What brand ratcheting wrenches did you use? (A MAN always needs new, updated tools, LOL)
My only tidbits of advice, from years of experience, are to
1. Test-fit the pads into the holders before installing, assure that they are 'falling-out loose'. I've had Wagners (and other aftermarket brands) require a little filing on the edges to resist binding. In the vid, yours looked OK.
2. Smear brake grease under the SS pad edge guides, in salty areas rust can bloom under them and bind the pads eventually.
3. Likewise, a greater quantity of Sil-Glyde on the slider pins can reduce sticking later (as on your lower slider).
4. Up here in the salt belt, a smear of anti-seize or Sil-Glyde around the rotor hubs (and on the rotor retention screw heads) will assure easier removal when the time comes.
Good Practice smearing all the rubber with synthetic grease! I do that, as well, and have never suffered a ripped boot as a result.
My only tidbits of advice, from years of experience, are to
1. Test-fit the pads into the holders before installing, assure that they are 'falling-out loose'. I've had Wagners (and other aftermarket brands) require a little filing on the edges to resist binding. In the vid, yours looked OK.
2. Smear brake grease under the SS pad edge guides, in salty areas rust can bloom under them and bind the pads eventually.
3. Likewise, a greater quantity of Sil-Glyde on the slider pins can reduce sticking later (as on your lower slider).
4. Up here in the salt belt, a smear of anti-seize or Sil-Glyde around the rotor hubs (and on the rotor retention screw heads) will assure easier removal when the time comes.
Good Practice smearing all the rubber with synthetic grease! I do that, as well, and have never suffered a ripped boot as a result.
