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I don't like to send a credit card number into a dark hole that will not put their business address nor their phone number. There are no details of what is in the kit either. Does it include the bolts ?
And why only a listing for the newer crv's some older ones can have the problems as well.
 

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Hello:) this is my first post here and I’m having the same problem when starting up my 2012 crv in the morning. Can any one give or post or pictures how step by step on how to remove the vtc spring and how much height to cut the spring. Thanks and more power!!!!!
 

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Hi All,
About a week ago, I replaced the spring inside the VTC actuator on my 2012 CR-V based on information here. I used the spring recommended: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RGDDO4?psc=1. I wound it inside the old spring and cut the new spring to be about 1/8" longer than the old one.

The rattle is mostly gone. I still hear it sometimes when I start the car in the mornings. But now I hear a chirping sound, which seems to be coming from the VTC actuator. I can clearly hear it and pinpointed the location to the VTC sprocket by using a stethoscope.

Attaching two sound clips. One is mostly recorded next to the engine and the chirping sound is more evident at about 18s. The other is recorded inside the car.

engine_bay.mp3
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www.dropbox.com
inside_car.mp3
Shared with Dropbox
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www.dropbox.com

Any insights would be appreciated.
 

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Thanks for the replies. I wasn't actually trying to capture the VTC rattle noise in those sound files. I wanted to share the squeak/chirping that I hear now.

I will try the belt dressing method, but when I place the stethoscope right above the VTC actuator on the cam cover, the squeak is clearly audible, whereas if I put it on any of the components which is connected to the serpentine belt, I don't hear chirp through the stethoscope.

Maybe a few specific questions can help me narrow this down:
  • Did folks mostly use the spring from that Amazon link above?
  • Did you wind the new spring into the old one or just used the new spring in place of the old one?
  • Did you cut the spring shorter?
 

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2014 CRV LX 4WD AT
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I did not use a torque wrench when I tightened the bolts. Just an educated guess of about 20 to 25 ft lbs. Not too tight. If you broke one of those 6 mm x 1.0 mm bolts it would be a bigger problem.
 

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2016 FWD
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I came across this thread while looking for something completely unrelated, BUT have had this happen a few times now. A couple concerns come to mind.
1) oil weight, I don't use 0-anything oil in any vehicles. I believe the ONLY reason manufacturers went to this is for less internal power loss for better mileage. I use 5-20 oil. Yes, my oil was low from lack of attention on my part. I'll, also, be changing the pcv valve I came across on here as a cause for oil consumption, which has been slowly increasing.
2) IF replacing the cam plate bolts, use grade 8. My concern about Deanno's stainless bolts, is that they are actually rather soft, about the same as a grade 5, and could shear. I don't think the load on the bolts is that great, but I never replace any fastener with one having a lower strength rating. In fact, if you have the correct torx tip to remove the factory fasteners, why replace them ?
I'd like to thank all the people who have posted on this site about similar issues to what my car is now starting to experience, with 87k on the clock. With all the knowledge on here, I hope to keep it going dependably, if I keep it. I would still like to be able to tow a 2,000k trailer, which I can't with this transmission.
 

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I've replaced my VTC about 12 months ago with the updated Honda part. The rattle started coming back a few months ago. Has anyone tried an aftermarket VTC? I see there are a lot of options and I'm tempted to try one since the OEM part isn't a 100% fix.
If you already have the newly designed VTC I would recommend changing the spring rather than choosing the aftermarket option. The after markets could do more harm than good. It could just be your timing chain tensioner, they work in tandem and if there is any play on the chain there is likely going to be Vtc issues. Hope this helped
 

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I've already had the actuator replaced by a shop, but will keep his kit in mind if the noise returns. It'd be nice to hear some feedback from someone who's actually used his kit.
There is a 5 star review from a Mechanical Engineer who fixed his 2015 CRV with the 5A2 VTC Actuator, which is the new R44 design. There is a longer spring with a smaller diameter in those, same as the R5A and the upgraded R44. The engineer also replaced his timing chain tensioner and his cold start rattle is fixed using an OEM style replacement spring.
His VTEC is engaging properly as well because the spring force on the spring he used is similar to OEM design.
 

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I came across this thread while looking for something completely unrelated, BUT have had this happen a few times now. A couple concerns come to mind.
1) oil weight, I don't use 0-anything oil in any vehicles. I believe the ONLY reason manufacturers went to this is for less internal power loss for better mileage. I use 5-20 oil. Yes, my oil was low from lack of attention on my part. I'll, also, be changing the pcv valve I came across on here as a cause for oil consumption, which has been slowly increasing.
2) IF replacing the cam plate bolts, use grade 8. My concern about Deanno's stainless bolts, is that they are actually rather soft, about the same as a grade 5, and could shear. I don't think the load on the bolts is that great, but I never replace any fastener with one having a lower strength rating. In fact, if you have the correct torx tip to remove the factory fasteners, why replace them ?
I'd like to thank all the people who have posted on this site about similar issues to what my car is now starting to experience, with 87k on the clock. With all the knowledge on here, I hope to keep it going dependably, if I keep it. I would still like to be able to tow a 2,000k trailer, which I can't with this transmission.
Totally agree. Remove the VTC cover bolts with the proper torx security bit, replace the spring and re-install your cover with the 6 mm OEM bolts designed for your VTC Actuator. Make sure you have a quality S2 torx security bit that won't strip your bolts - the newer design VTC bolts (new R44, 5A2 and R5A VTC Gears) have a shallow recess so are easy to strip otherwise.
 

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I did some research on alternate suppliers for this spring and found the following at McMaster Carr in the U.S

A Pack of 6 #1986K61 is $3.79

Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Circle




Ph. 330-995-5500


Rick
 

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My English language is non-existent. I am going to write in Spanish and I will put a google translation below.- I have the same problem in my CRV 2015.- All proposed solutions are highly unreliable. The resource solution, too. You can modify the angle of the VTC. And it can be short-lived. In Argentina, with this sound in the morning, it is impossible to sell such a vehicle. The next day the buyer returns the vehicle or denounces you. Proposed solution: I came up with a solution that works. The solution is that before starting, the oil pump sends pressure to the VTC. I achieved this by timing the boot. I mean, I block the coils for two seconds and then I allow the boot. That way, I forget about noise forever. I understand that the vehicle starts in four turns instead of one, but the noise is not heard anymore.
 

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I did some research on alternate suppliers for this spring and found the following at McMaster Carr in the U.S

A Pack of 6 #1986K61 is $3.79

View attachment 159331



Ph. 330-995-5500


Rick
There are proper OEM style Honda VTC Gear spring replacement kits available with springs that have been designed and tested by Mechanical Engineers
 
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