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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, and thank you for accepting me to the forum! I am needing to buy a CRV with low milage and AWD or 4wd, and have read that certain years have had some pretty major problems, such as oil mixing with the gas, the car shaking, and some other problems. Can anyone give me anymore info? Thank you very much!
 

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1997, 2002, 2017 my expertese lies there
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Realtime there is no 4wd on any V its an AWD system by hydrolics, a dual pump. what year do you like the 1st gen, 2nd gen look, the 3, 4 gen look? most go wit the 2nd gen 2002-2006 era they are very reliable even the 3rd gens
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Realtime there is no 4wd on any V its an AWD system by hydrolics, a dual pump. what year do you like the 1st gen, 2nd gen look, the 3, 4 gen look? most go wit the 2nd gen 2002-2006 era they are very reliable even the 3rd gens
Thank you for your response! I don't know why I thought that somewhere I saw something about a 4wd V. Anyway, my last 2 used cars were bought with pretty high mileage so this time I want low mileage, which I know will cost more, so I'm looking at 5th generation. Thank you for any advice!
 

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you're looking to the CVT trans and Turbo on the 5th gen if you keep in mind you may find something or might consider a new one
 

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2020 CR-V Hybrid EX
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Thank you for your response! I don't know why I thought that somewhere I saw something about a 4wd V. Anyway, my last 2 used cars were bought with pretty high mileage so this time I want low mileage, which I know will cost more, so I'm looking at 5th generation. Thank you for any advice!
Lots of folks confuse 4WD and AWD, including some manufacturers.
One thing to make sure of no matter what you buy is that the routine maintenance is documented. Especially with AWD, fluid changes are important.
You didn't mention your budget, but there may be some deals on 2020 models around.
Not sure if a hybrid is in your range, but at least drive one, that's usually free.
 

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Lots of folks confuse 4WD and AWD, including some manufacturers.
One thing to make sure of no matter what you buy is that the routine maintenance is documented. Especially with AWD, fluid changes are important.
You didn't mention your budget, but there may be some deals on 2020 models around.
Not sure if a hybrid is in your range, but at least drive one, that's usually free.
Thanks so much! Didn't realize how important fluid changes are on AWDs. Don't think I can afford a 2020 but you never know! Thank you again!
 

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Thanks so much! Didn't realize how important fluid changes are on AWDs. Don't think I can afford a 2020 but you never know! Thank you again!
Important? We had our 2010 EX-L AWD for over 9 years and almost 70k miles. We only changed oil and windshield wiper fluid in that time. Never had any issues. :)
 

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you're looking to the CVT trans and Turbo on the 5th gen if you keep in mind you may find something or might consider a new one
Thanks! I've been reading that there's been an oil dilution problem in the engines that are turbocharged, so I'm thinking I should stay away from those and therefore only look at the LX model. I think that the latest models ALL have turbocharged, I'll have to do more research! Thank you!
 

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Find a low mileage 2016 in an EX or EXL version, or if you want all the luxuries then a Touring model.

You want to find one that has less than 30 K miles so you can change the CVT fluid before 30 K miles. And the rear end fluid should be changed every 15 K miles ( 20 K at the maximum ). The brake fluid should be flushed every 3 years.

The 2015 had vibration problems with both the engine and the back of the vehicle.

Some years in 2017 and up in the LX still had the 2.4 normally asperated ( not turbo-charged ) engine. They would still be OK.

But read the Car-Fax reports on AutoTrader and other sites and find one that had the oil and filter changed when it should have been. You do not want to buy a vehicle that the owner did not change the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Find a low mileage 2016 in an EX or EXL version, or if you want all the luxuries then a Touring model.

You want to find one that has less than 30 K miles so you can change the CVT fluid before 30 K miles. And the rear end fluid should be changed every 15 K miles ( 20 K at the maximum ). The brake fluid should be flushed every 3 years.

The 2015 had vibration problems with both the engine and the back of the vehicle.

Some years in 2017 and up in the LX still had the 2.4 normally asperated ( not turbo-charged ) engine. They would still be OK.

But read the Car-Fax reports on AutoTrader and other sites and find one that had the oil and filter changed when it should have been. You do not want to buy a vehicle that the owner did not change the oil.
Thank so very much for all the great info. Jim!!!
 

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I love my 2016, and my wife's 2012 isn't bad either. I'd skip ahead to 2019 if you don't want a 2016. The 2015, 2017, and 2018s all had a lot of 'teething' issues. The 2016 is great as long as you get all of the TSB updates done. The 2012 -- 2014 are also good. The 2015 and 2017 were the first major change years, so I would avoid those if possible. If you want the older hydraulic 4WD, you can go with the 2011 or on down. It all depends on what you want.

Always get the maintenance information if you can. If you can, look at the Maintenance Minder to see if anything is about to be due, due, or overdue. I noticed on my CarFax report that the dealerships only listed 'vehicle serviced', but didn't go into everything done -- but the MM was clean... I still had my new service dealer do all of the fluids just in case (32,000mi), but everything felt good when I drove it off the lot -- no differential noises or any other abnormal sounds. My new service dealer said everything looked good during the multi-point inspection, but went ahead and did all of the fluids for peace of mind and to have it officially documented and sent to CarFax in case I wanted to sell the truck later on.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
you're looking to the CVT trans and Turbo on the 5th gen if you keep in mind you may find something or might consider a new one
I love my 2016, and my wife's 2012 isn't bad either. I'd skip ahead to 2019 if you don't want a 2016. The 2015, 2017, and 2018s all had a lot of 'teething' issues. The 2016 is great as long as you get all of the TSB updates done. The 2012 -- 2014 are also good. The 2015 and 2017 were the first major change years, so I would avoid those if possible. If you want the older hydraulic 4WD, you can go with the 2011 or on down. It all depends on what you want.

Always get the maintenance information if you can. If you can, look at the Maintenance Minder to see if anything is about to be due, due, or overdue. I noticed on my CarFax report that the dealerships only listed 'vehicle serviced', but didn't go into everything done -- but the MM was clean... I still had my new service dealer do all of the fluids just in case (32,000mi), but everything felt good when I drove it off the lot -- no differential noises or any other abnormal sounds. My new service dealer said everything looked good during the multi-point inspection, but went ahead and did all of the fluids for peace of mind and to have it officially documented and sent to CarFax in case I wanted to sell the truck later on.
Thanks so very much !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Lots of folks confuse 4WD and AWD, including some manufacturers.
One thing to make sure of no matter what you buy is that the routine maintenance is documented. Especially with AWD, fluid changes are important.
You didn't mention your budget, but there may be some deals on 2020 models around.
Not sure if a hybrid is in your range, but at least drive one, that's usually free.
Thank you very much for the info!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I love my 2016, and my wife's 2012 isn't bad either. I'd skip ahead to 2019 if you don't want a 2016. The 2015, 2017, and 2018s all had a lot of 'teething' issues. The 2016 is great as long as you get all of the TSB updates done. The 2012 -- 2014 are also good. The 2015 and 2017 were the first major change years, so I would avoid those if possible. If you want the older hydraulic 4WD, you can go with the 2011 or on down. It all depends on what you want.

Always get the maintenance information if you can. If you can, look at the Maintenance Minder to see if anything is about to be due, due, or overdue. I noticed on my CarFax report that the dealerships only listed 'vehicle serviced', but didn't go into everything done -- but the MM was clean... I still had my new service dealer do all of the fluids just in case (32,000mi), but everything felt good when I drove it off the lot -- no differential noises or any other abnormal sounds. My new service dealer said everything looked good during the multi-point inspection, but went ahead and did all of the fluids for peace of mind and to have it officially documented and sent to CarFax in case I wanted to sell the truck later on.
Thank you so much for this info!!!
 

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Thanks! I've been reading that there's been an oil dilution problem in the engines that are turbocharged, so I'm thinking I should stay away from those and therefore only look at the LX model. I think that the latest models ALL have turbocharged, I'll have to do more research! Thank you!
I don't think it was the turbochargers per se that caused the issue. Those engines were both turbocharged and GDI, hard to put the blame on the turbo, both cause stress on the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I don't think it was the turbochargers per se that caused the issue. Those engines were both turbocharged and GDI, hard to put the blame on the turbo, both cause stress on the engine.
Thanks for the help!
 

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I don't think it was the turbochargers per se that caused the issue. Those engines were both turbocharged and GDI, hard to put the blame on the turbo, both cause stress on the engine.
Indeed... Ford has been using twin turbocharged direct injection engines for many years and over 400k miles in some cases (EcoBoost 3.5) -- without oil dilution. The Honda OD was caused by insufficient combustion which was remedied by updating the software to allow for a faster warm up and fuel injection reprogramming.

You'd be fine with any of the model years we recommended :)
 
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There are post about 2017 to 2020 still having too much gasoline get in the oil of the 1.5 Turbo DI engine. From what it looks like if you drive them short distances in cold weather it can aggravate that problem. If you do a lot of highway driving then it should not be a problem.

Quite frankly if my 2016 CR-V EX ever got totaled I would be looking for another 2016 in an EX or EX-L or Touring. I would avoid the 1.5 Turbo. Also turbos tend to carbon up after 90 K miles and can cost about 1,000 to replace. So if you keep them for a long time, that is another reason to avoid any turbo.
 
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