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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

2010 LX 2WD. 120k miles, has always run flawlessly, transmission fluid dump/fill with Honda brand ATF every 30k miles, which changes out about 3.5 quarts each time (counting room for a small external cooler that was installed when the car was new).

A few days ago, cruising at about 50 mph, at about 1500 rpm, the car started bucking a bit. It didn't feel like the engine. Due to the severity of what I would describe as a jolting feeling, it felt like the transmission was slipping in and out.

Didn't really know what to do, cycled the OD button on and off a few times on the shift lever. Each time, the car downshifted and rpm went up as it should. Cycling back to the normal OD on position, the car stopped exhibiting the problem and has been operating normally for the past few days since.

During the episode, the "D" indicator light on the dash stayed solid, and the engine light did not come on. Fluid looks red and normal, and is at normal level, with no leaks. Other than this incident, the transmission shifts normally and has never exhibited any problems before or since.

Has anybody had this issue?

Thanks!
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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Possible you are seeing a misfire?

Did you ever replace spark plugs and adjust the valve lash (recommended at ~100K miles)?

Just a W.A.G. as you have performed transmission service correctly...
 

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It could honestly be computer related -- as the transmission control module is hooked into the PCM. I'd have it checked. It sounds like computer to me. Resetting the PCM might do the trick. It will reset all driver learned behavior.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, Carbuff. I replaced the plugs at 100k, but haven't done a valve adjustment. For a "lazy" cruising speed like this, it was a very abrupt feeling, more like transmission/driveline than a misfire.
I was going to look at valve lash down the road a bit. I have a variety of motorcycles, so adjusting valves is second nature. Just putting it off, mainly since the car has been driven a lot less this year with all of the lockdowns, and my wife's subsequent change to a work-from-home arrangement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good idea, agent1074. Resetting the computer would be an easy thing to do just as a what-if.

My work van is an Odyssey, which is at 250k miles and is on its third transmission, and my brother-in-law's MDX trans went at 130k (he did no maintenance whatsoever), so I'm wary of Honda transmission issues.
 

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Good idea, agent1074. Resetting the computer would be an easy thing to do just as a what-if.

My work van is an Odyssey, which is at 250k miles and is on its third transmission, and my brother-in-law's MDX trans went at 130k (he did no maintenance whatsoever), so I'm wary of Honda transmission issues.
My wife's 2012 EX-L AWD is at 123,000 miles and it's been good. I did have a little shudder over the summer that only happened once. Honda DW-1 fluid change every 2 years/20 to 30,000 miles. My dealer put in a Valvoline VPS ATF Protector, Conditioner, and Sealer that helps the DW-1 condition the seals and eliminates any shudder -- while maintaining the shifting characteristics. The trans felt factory new ever since.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hmmm, might look into the Valvoline VPS.

So, your car had a shudder that happened once and did not return? Hopefully that's what just happened to ours.

On the other side of Honda transmissions, when I met my wife, she had a '98 Civic with a shift flare between second and third gear. The car had 70k miles, and I figured we'd just drive it till it broke. When we sold the car with 200k, it was still doing it, but otherwise shifted fine and never broke.
 

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Hmmm, might look into the Valvoline VPS.

So, your car had a shudder that happened once and did not return? Hopefully that's what just happened to ours.

On the other side of Honda transmissions, when I met my wife, she had a '98 Civic with a shift flare between second and third gear. The car had 70k miles, and I figured we'd just drive it till it broke. When we sold the car with 200k, it was still doing it, but otherwise shifted fine and never broke.
Yep... it only happened one summer... they did they treatment, and it's been factory feeling since. They told me I have to come in for the treatment every 15,000 miles. I told them they might as well do the treatment with the drain and fill every 15k.

Wow... at least the Civic hung on. Evidently, they changed from Z1 to DW-1 ATF to help with shudder and poor shift quality, but evidently, they still need some conditioners in the fluid -- at least for higher mileage transmissions.
 

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Good idea, agent1074. Resetting the computer would be an easy thing to do just as a what-if.

My work van is an Odyssey, which is at 250k miles and is on its third transmission, and my brother-in-law's MDX trans went at 130k (he did no maintenance whatsoever), so I'm wary of Honda transmission issues.
The V6 transmissions were crap back then--our '99 TL was flawless, yet the '02 Accord V6 (headed for the junkyard soon) with the B7XA had the common flare and harsh shifting into 2nd gear (1-2 and 3-2 shifts). Later V6 transmissions after 2006 or 2007 (complete redesign) are OK.

These transmissions in third gen CR-Vs are fairly rock solid. Both of mine here are ~150k miles and operate smoothly. Frequent ATF changes, like you've been doing, and I don't anticipate any problems. We hopefully won't have either one much longer, so as long as they keep shifting until they're sold, I'll be happy.

For that matter, other than a parking pawl problem, the transmission in my '97 worked great for almost 290k miles. Our 2004 Civic, 243k miles now, no issues.

About that Valvoline fluid--keep in mind that NO other ATFs out there have the same elements that Honda fluid does. I won't link to it for the millionth time here, but there was an analysis done by a member at the BobIsTheOilGuy forum that showed the differences in additives that were unique to DW1. Only Honda knows what belongs in their ATF, and nobody has duplicated it (despite what the aftermarket bottles say). Rebuilders won't even warranty their products unless the owner uses Honda ATF. (Investigated this for the 2002 Accord...wasn't worth replacing the transmission in.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah, I only use OEM transmission fluids. Gotta figure with something that complicated, they know what works in it. My last Ford had an Aisin-built six-speed that wasn't in production for too long, and nobody ever found an aftermarket fluid that was acceptable in it. I may have the last case of Motorcraft fluid for the stupid thing on the planet.

I let the CRV sit overnight with the battery cable off. I'll wake it up when I get home from work, and we'll see how she does.
 

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Reminds me of the special coolant for VWs has special lubricants for the sealsa dnwster pump that won't harm the rubber or plastics. Maybe we should be putting honda atf in everything else to make it last longer 😂🤣
 

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2009 CR-V LX Fwd
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I recommend replacing the in-line transmission filter.
In my 2012 Acura TL (same filter) it gets clogged often so a TSB was issued.
Item 16: There are a few videos on Youtube that show how to reach in ... two spring clamps on the hoses.
Youtube videos for the Honda Element are similar.

Aftermarket part number: ATP B452 , BECK/ARNLEY 0440434
I use the ATP available on RockAuto.com but you have to search for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Wow, gotta admit as many times as I’ve been under the car over the years I’ve never noticed that it has a transmission filter!

Thanks for the tip! Just got home and looked under the front bumper, looks super easy to replace. Just ordered one!

Funny... I called the local dealer before I left the office to see if I could grab a filter on the way home. The parts guy couldn’t locate a transmission filter in his computer. He went and got some help, got back on the line and said that to the best of their knowledge the car doesn’t have a filter.
 

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Yes it's AMAZING that most Honda/Acura parts mangers, service managers, and mechanics don't know about this filter. The only reason I know about is because of the TSB issued for my 2012 TL. I started looking on other H/A vehicles and lo and behold, many have it. I've read that the official status is that it's a lifetime component and doesn't require service. The TSB issued on Acura TL's proves that is a BS story. Turns out that if the filter gets clogged by normal debris created by the transmission it can limit the fluid flow to the radiator cooler. The fluid get hot and starts to degrade. Bad things can occur with this happens.

In my immediate family these vehicles have this filter: 2004 Accord 4cyl, 2008 TSX, 2009 CRV, 2012 TL, 2014 CRV, and 2017 Odyssey. I replace it every 30,000 miles. In some vehicles it can be difficult to access (under battery, under air filter, etc). I also drain and fill with Honda fluid at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My wife and I went for a long drive on New Year's Day, and the transmission exhibited the same issue just once. It was under the same circumstances, around 50 with the engine at 1500, cruising. When it did it, I did the same as before, clicked the OD button which kicked the RPM up, and it went away. I'm not a fluid dynamics engineer, but I do know auto transmissions a bit. If the filter was clogged, perhaps the relatively low fluid pressure at a lazy cruising speed was blocked, while kicking the RPM up may have pushed the fluid through or sent it through the bypass valve. That's hopeful thinking, I guess.

Received my new filter yesterday (Thanks, Amazon Sunday delivery), and replaced it while doing a dump-and-flush of the fluid.
While the videos I watched of how to do the swap showed the typical OEM-style spring type clamps for the filter hose, mine had aftermarket-style screw clamps. This leads me to believe that the filter had been changed before. I bought the car with 25K miles from a friend who basically wrote a blank check to the dealer where she purchased it every 2K miles for service. The records I received with the car showed a ridiculous amount of over-servicing in its short life up to that point (cabin filter, brake fluid flush, etc), so they might have done it at some point before I bought it. There were no transmission problems during the time the original owner had the car.

In any case, the screw clamps made the replacement quite easy. I went for a test drive and it felt great, but since the problem is very infrequent, only time will tell. Killed me to dump and flush the fluid since I had only done it 10K miles ago, but better safe than sorry, and I didn't need to be careful to measure how much had leaked out during the filter change.
 

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Yes those spring clamps are a PITA.
I may replace all mine as was done on your CRV.
Thanks for that feedback.
I shall have to purchase a large pack of clamps since I maintain 5 vehicles that have this filter.

I replace the filter and then run the engine to fill the filter and associated lines before I perform the drain.
Therefore, any fluid lost during filter replacement is now from the sump and not the filter.
When I drain, a little less fluid drains out but it gets the normal full fill.

A drain-n-fill only replaces approx 40% of the fluid.
Even after 3 d-n-f you're only at approx 79% new fluid. (See attached).
The common theme to proper Honda/Acura transmission function and longevity I've noticed on all the forums is changing the fluid often with H/A fluid. I think this also holds true for all makes and models.
I am a mechanical engineer so this makes sense to me.
Nevertheless, I don't think you wasted your money with this last fluid d-n-f.
 

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I also offer this as an alternate solution.
The pressure switches on Honda/Acura 4 cylinder auto transmissions tend to malfunction at a higher than normal rate and sometimes they don't create a code to illuminate the check-engine light. Therefore, I replace these switches after the vehicle reaches 100K miles. I've replaced them on my 04 Accord & 08 TSX but not mty family's 09 & 14 CRV yet as those two are less than 100K mileage.

For your 2010 CRV LX the switches are items 9 & 10 and item 14 aluminum washer.

They are easy to replace but can be challenging to access.
Item 9 can be accessed from the driver wheel well. You'll probably have to remove the tire.
Item 10 can be accessed from open hood but you'll probably have to remove the air intake hose or battery.
You'll need a deep socket; I think it's 24 mm.
DON'T get the switches mixed up, they are different part number so I assume they function at different set pressures.

Here is a YT video that might be relevant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Thanks, Reorge. I'll take that under advisement, and if the filter didn't do the trick, I'll do this next!

I really appreciate the links to the parts and the video. Thanks for that.
 
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