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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Today I checked the MM, and I got a #7 (brake fluid flush) queued up for my next oil change. For the curious, my manufacture date is 11/16, (OH chassis number in mid-1,000, so it was likely the first couple (slow!) weeks of production.) I have just over 30k on it, and I'm almost exactly two years from when I bought it (within a week or so).

Should be pretty easy; I have a Harbor Freight pneumatic-powered bleeder that makes the job painless. (It blows air from a compressor through a venturi in order to create a vacuum that sucks fluid out through the bleeder screw; less work than a MityVac, and less fussy (and much cheaper!) than a Motive.) Doesn't take much longer than a tire rotation, and the only supply you need is a qt. of DOT 4 from any Auto Parts store. (Anybody in the RDU area that needs this done is welcome to PM me and come on over!) I think most dealers charge $100, which is way too much.

I'm curious when I'll get a request for CVT change.
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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WAIT... you got a impending MM code for something that should be done only on a TIME basis? :applause:

I didn't know that Hondas's MM system would do that. I know other makers' can.
 

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Today I checked the MM, and I got a #7 (brake fluid) queued up for my next oil change. For the curious, my manufacture date is 11/16, (OH chassis number in the mid-1,000's). I have just over 30k on it, and I'm almost exactly two years from when I bought it (within a week or so).

Should be pretty easy; I have a pneumatic-powered bleeder that makes the job painless. Doesn't take much longer than a tire rotation. (Anybody in the RDU area that needs this done is welcome to PM me and come on over.). I think most dealers charge $100, which is way too much.

I'm curious when I'll get a request for CVT change.
I would change the CVT fluid any day now. It's too cheap and too easy of a job not to.
 

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WAIT... you got a impending MM code for something that should be done only on a TIME basis? :applause:

I didn't know that Hondas's MM system would do that. I know other makers' can.
Right now at 14,900 miles and 23 months of ownership my MM is showing A 1 6 and 30% oil life. Since I don't plan on getting my oil change, rear differential, TSB 18-114 and Pa state inspection done until after 2 years of ownership, I will be sure to report whether or not I also get a 7 on my MM. It would be nice if it did show up for safety reasons.
 

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We used to live in the RDU area (20 years ago in Cary), if we still lived there, I might take you up on your offer Sirwired. Our CR-V is coming up on 2 years in March. Like the other fluids, I prefer to change the brake fluid myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Right now at 14,900 miles and 23 months of ownership my MM is showing A 1 6 and 30% oil life. Since I don't plan on getting my oil change, rear differential, TSB 18-114 and Pa state inspection done until after 2 years of ownership, I will be sure to report whether or not I also get a 7 on my MM. It would be nice if it did show up for safety reasons.
You should expect it some time during the third year; I'm guessing after manufacture, since the car doesn't know when it was sold. (The manual specifically says that if you *don't* get a 7 after three years, to go ahead and do it anyway.) My wild guess is that it isn't sure I'll have another oil change after the pending one before year 3 is up. (With 60% left on this oil, that's not a bad guess; I probably won't be changing it until April or so. Who knows when the one after that will be. I've changed it three times so far, between 15% and 10% on the OLM.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Perfect, looks like the smaller diameter universal cap is the correct method. Looks like it will take some work to get it to seal though.
Yeah, that's why I got a vacuum bleeder instead of a pressure bleeder. (Wife's car also calls for the "universal" cap, and it looks like a real PITA.) Okay, and the fact that the pneumatic one is only $30 is nice too. The only drawback of a vac bleeder is that it's hard to truly tell when all the air is out of the caliper since some air often sneaks past the bleeder threads and/or the bleeder fitting. But unless you've run your master cyl. dry, there should never be much air in the system. (And the pneumatic bleeder comes with an ingenious automatic filler bottle to make sure running dry doesn't happen.)
 

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Hang on. Brake fluid change after perhaps not even two years of ownership??

Does that seems very strange aka premature to anyone else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hang on. Brake fluid change after perhaps not even two years of ownership??

Does that seems very strange aka premature to anyone else?
It does not. The manual calls for it to be changed by the end of year 3 if the MM hasn't asked for it yet. I have 60% left on the current oil, and therefore it's not terribly certain there will be another oil change after this one before I enter year 4. Previous cars I've owned (without all this reminder gadgetry) have had the flush on a 2 or 3 year schedule. "Some time during year 3" seems reasonable to me.

And I'm going to guess that the car doesn't know when it was bought; I don't think PDI does anything special to "start the clock", which means things start ticking on the manufacture date, which for me was November '16. (As a *very* early production car, it sat on a Honda storage lot for a bit to build up inventory before it was released for sale.)
 

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No way I’m messing with the brake fluid on a moderately used 2 year old car.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic, which means it attracts moisture...
Moisture in a brake system is not good.

Many motorcycles recommend changing it every year... When I do mine you can see the moisture in the master cylinder.

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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Brake fluid change after perhaps not even two years of ownership??

Does that seems very strange aka premature to anyone else?
Nope. I change BF every year on our older sports car...clutch fluid every other year.

The sports car has WAY more GO power than STOP power, though...



++++++++++++++

Moisture in brake lines can cause issues OVER TIME. A friend's truck (which had OE brake fluid for years) broke a brake line when it leaked after a hard panic stop. :uhoh3: Rust.
 

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No way I’m messing with the brake fluid on a moderately used 2 year old car.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic, which means it attracts moisture...
Moisture in a brake system is not good.

Many motorcycles recommend changing it every year... When I do mine you can see the moisture in the master cylinder.

Sent from my LG-H700 using Tapatalk
I know. I know all about it. I just haven’t had moisture issues in my vehicles, so I space out the change interval.
I’m the same with antifreeze. I’ve never changed out that at recommend intervals either.
 
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