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Discussion Starter #1
My 99 CR-V has had a shake and vibration since I got it in August. I attributed it to a bend in the right front rim which I switched with the spare rim and changed the new tire to and balanced, this helped but it still was not a big improvement. I had it on the lift the other day and let the wheels spin in the air and it looks like all 4 (yes 4!!!) of my less than a year old and about 10k mile Goodyear MaxAssurance tires are way out of round, I can hear them slapping and since I did not buy them new (my sister did and she does not have the receipt) I am stuck buying 4 new tires.

But, the truck has a shaking that FEELS like a tire shaking badly when I pull away from a stop especially after a turn, I thought my right axle had a bad inner joint because it seemed worse on right turns so I replaced with a new aftermarket ( I know, I know) but it made zero difference either way. Next up was the mount by the firewall appeared to be partially broken so I did it and the other 3 with OEM Honda parts, the one you need to undo for the timing belt was done at the dealer about 10k miles ago when they did the belt and it looked and felt good still so it was left alone. This offered some improvement but still the same shaking from a stop I had to start with.

I have resigned myself to the fact I need tires and I figure I will get some Acura RSX or similar wheels and put new quality tires on them and make it an upgrade in both looks and performance at the same time. However I know for a fact it needs trailing arm bushings and my rear tires were just starting to show a tiny bit of wear on the inner edge and I want to do the bushings and get a camber kit for the rear and get it aligned before wasting another set of new tires. However, I think I have two separate issues here, one is the out of round tires which cause shaking and I am sure are unbalanced and also causing a mild vibration. The other which I am more concerned with is the shake when I pull away from a stop, is this a symptom of the u-joints in the prop shaft starting to seize up?? Also, the right axle seems to have a bit of play up and down where it goes into the the transmission, old and new ones were the same way, is this normal or do I have transmission issues as well?? The axle seal is not leaking or dripping and I am thinking if it was bad enough to be an issue the seal would be first to go.

I am going to drop the prop shaft in a little bit to see if it helps but any input on this would be appreciated.
 

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I had the same problem on my 02 EX..........I looked at everything and it was the lower ball joints in the front end.
Most of the shaking was from a standing start, and it didn,t matter if it was mild or hard exceleration. That cured 98% of it, and yes I replaced the "new" Bridgestone tires with about 6K on them...........At last a smooth ride ind no vibration.
Good Luck.....at least it is a place to look.
 

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Hello welcome to the forum. It is really good you posted here. I too have a 98 crv and I love it. They are really strong cars. First thing, do not put tires in her yet or else like my car the tires will wear up again quickly. My 98 crv had same problem as yours and I wasted lot of money like you did in things like axle, balancing, and tires. First thing is if your axle boots are not torn, they are fine. And you said that you changed the axle, if you did make sure you changed the whole axle, both inner and outer. Or else if you had a original inner axle and changed with aftermarket outer axle, the size of the inner circle of the two axle will be different. If your original axle boots were not torn put the orignal back in. In my case the mechanic put an aftermarket outer axle into my orignal inner axle and the inner ring size was different and caused vibration and trouble. So if you change axle, change the whole axle with the same brand. Ok next point is that hondas are good cars but when they get old you need to redo the bushings. My car had same vibration as yours from a stop, and I opened her up and all my bushings were bad, the lower control arm, upper control arm, trailing arm, sway bar, all of them were crushed. I swear when I changed the bushings, it feels like brand new from factory. It is smooth as silk now. It is really easy, you do not have to buy new parts like control arms, you just need to change the bushings. For me it took six hours and I got all my bushings changed. You need a press. So first change your bushings then your tires or else tires will get worn out again. All hondas have common bushings they share with accord or civic. Below is a list, I forgot to write the rear lower arm bushing in the list, but you can find it online. So if you have uneven wear in your tires its your suspension bushings. Also the driveshaft u joints will also need replacing.Mines were completely bad. Heres the link to buy them. You will need two. Do not buy from wrench monkey they will charge 15 dollar extra.
http://theujointstore.com/44311.html

W0133-1633736 lower control arm, you need total two. There are two different bushings for each lower control arm in Crv. This is one of them. Note this is for 2002-2006 but will fit right in. Honda does not sell them for 1st gen, they say replace whole arm which is 200 dollars.

W0133-1890445 upper control arm bushing. You need total four, two for each arm.

W0133-1635488 lower control arm. This is the other bushing. You need total two

REPH286501 shock mountng bushing, you need four of these for the four shocks.

W0133-1847287 coil insulator bushing, you need four of these for the four shocks.

Beck Arnley 101-5584 rear sway, need a set of two.

Beck Arnley 101-5580 front sway, need a set of two

6021-07017457 trailing arm, need two

Raybestos 5777041 steering rack, need one

16.13101G ball joint boot

9.13103 tie rod boots

W0133-1625691 rear upper arm, need two, there are two different type of bushings in the rear upper control arm.

W0133-1637477 rear upper arm, need two

Note just google the part number in googe shopping.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the advice guys!! I just came back from test driving it after removing the driveshaft, same way as before with the shaking. U-joints are REALLY notchy and starting to bind so I left the shaft out for now.When I was out I hit a drive thru for lunch and when I pulled out of the parking lot I had to stop for traffic and made a right turn and it was shaking horribly. The axle was a complete axle, new not rebuilt and it made zero difference either way. I am getting to the point of taking it to a local Honda dealer and letting them figure out what is wrong with it to save from just throwing parts at it. I work mostly outside with hand tools and no lift and it is getting cold out and I am not in the mood to play with this thing every day trying to figure it out so that may be a good timesaver.
 

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Your case is same as mine. Me too changed the axle, then removed the driveshaft and it made no difference. Then I showed it to the dealer and he said the tires and axles are bad. I also ended up changing all the engine mounts and the problem was still there. I say look closely at all four of your tires. If you see uneven wear in them, it is your bushings. Another thing you can do is jack the front up and wiggle the front tires for any play in them. Me too changed the tires after the dealer advised and ended up in out of round uneven worn out tires in ten months. And it is then I realized it was the suspension and I fixed the bushings and the problem went away. But even with the bushings fixed I have less than a year worn out tires which I need to replace. Right now the worn out tires have a tiny light small vibration, but nothing serious like you describe..
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I sat and thought about this for awhile today and went over the symptoms of a bad inner joint and they seem to match mine pretty close and I got my buddy with a shop to get a "try me" axle from his supplier and use of one bay for tomorrow morning to give it a whirl. I am banking on the left one if a joint is the issue, right axle is a few months old and it was exactly the same after I replaced that one as it was before so I doubt two axles would be bad in the same exact way. Will post results tomorrow.

If this is it next will be tackling the u-joints which are bad in the driveshaft, may get one from wholesaleimportparts.com, I priced out u-joints, labor to install them if I drop off the shaft and a new carrier bearing and labor and it is pretty close to the price of the rebuilt and when it is done there is basically no warranty at least with the rebuilt I get a year warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did the left axle yesterday, got a Cardone new one. Just do not have $500 to blow on an OEM axle right now. $50 my cost through the shop labor was me on their lift. Seems to have solved the violent shaking on pulling away from a stop and while accelerating. Still need tires as one is VERY out of round, you can feel it when you just idle along and as soon you start to slowly accelerate it slaps. Next up is driveshaft so 4x4 works again and then some nice wheels and tires. The inner joint on the left axle felt very crunchy when you moved it out of the truck so I believe this was main issue all along. Well, if nothing else it has lots of new common wear items done now- mounts, timing belt, valve adjustment and cover gasket, full tune up, axles so it should be good for a while now.
 
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