I have a 2008 CR-V AWD w/ 115k miles in excellent condition.
I did a Search and read a lot of replies on this Forum before posting.
I had NO IDEA that there were timing chain problems with the 2.4K Engine until talking with a fellow who had 2 engines crater due to timing chain guide failures, and scared the crap out of me. He now uses after-market chain tensioners and guide rails.
That prompted me to visit my Honda dealership today where my car was always maintained, including oil changes, prior to me buying the car last Summer. I asked 2 service advisors, and both said there is little reason for concern UNLESS the car was run low on oil, or the oil was not scrupulously changed on schedule. They seemed surprised I was even asking.
They said that typically a timing chain should last as much as 150k miles, and they charge $1300-1500 for it. They said they do the job IN THE CAR, though there doesn't seem to be much room along side of the engine. I had to change the A/C compressor clutch assembly when I bought the car, and believe me, there was not much room to work and do that without removing the compressor (Honda wanted $1300 for the job is why the owner sold me the car, but thankfully I did it for $75 w/o removing the compressor). The serpentine belt looks evil to access as well.
I read a bunch of articles online that spoke of stretched chains, and tensioners failing causing catastrophic engine failure, and an after-market tensioner was recommended (about $170-$300: https://www.hybrid-racing.com/products/hybrid-racing-timing-chain-tensioner-for-k-series-engines or https://skunk2.com/engine/support-parts/340-05-0002.html)
It seems SOME people need to change their chain and tensioner by as little as 65,000mi while others have over 200,000mi on their original chain. It seems the tensioners fail (teeth shear off allowing timing to jump and bend valves/destroy pistons) while sometimes the chains just wear and "stretch" until a timing code (P0341) is thrown indicating a new chain is needed without engine damage).
I must say I am thoroughly confused and concerned at this point. I like the car, but I don't want to keep a future money-pit.
The dealership advised monitoring how clean the head, visible through the oil-fill cap, is, and if it's dirty/sludgy, I should have the chain/tensioner changed immediately (dirty oil damages the tensioner causing it to jump), but if it's spiffy clean, at 125-150k have them remove the timing chain cover for a look-see visually for timing marks, etc), and then assess the situation.
One Indy shop told me that to change the chain, the engine should be removed, or the whole eng/trans dropped out the bottom. The dealer said that they could change everything in place, though when I said even changing the serpentine belt looked ugly, they said even the serpentine belt is miserable.
SO- WHAT ARE THE RECOMMENDATIONS OF THE GROUP?
RE THE WATER PUMP-
How long do the water pump and belt idler/tensioner bearings usually last?
When should I bite the bullet and have it ALL done? It would seem doing the serpentine belt, idler/tensioner, water pump and timing chain/tensioner at ONE TIME would save repetitive labor charges.
Were there any "upgrades" to the K engine during production years based on reliability standards, so later K engines may have better components than earlier ones? In other words, are newer cars equipped with superior components based on failures of earlier built cars from which Honda learned lessons, making my 2008 less liable to problems reported in pre-2008 cars?
Thanks-
Bob
I did a Search and read a lot of replies on this Forum before posting.
I had NO IDEA that there were timing chain problems with the 2.4K Engine until talking with a fellow who had 2 engines crater due to timing chain guide failures, and scared the crap out of me. He now uses after-market chain tensioners and guide rails.
That prompted me to visit my Honda dealership today where my car was always maintained, including oil changes, prior to me buying the car last Summer. I asked 2 service advisors, and both said there is little reason for concern UNLESS the car was run low on oil, or the oil was not scrupulously changed on schedule. They seemed surprised I was even asking.
They said that typically a timing chain should last as much as 150k miles, and they charge $1300-1500 for it. They said they do the job IN THE CAR, though there doesn't seem to be much room along side of the engine. I had to change the A/C compressor clutch assembly when I bought the car, and believe me, there was not much room to work and do that without removing the compressor (Honda wanted $1300 for the job is why the owner sold me the car, but thankfully I did it for $75 w/o removing the compressor). The serpentine belt looks evil to access as well.
I read a bunch of articles online that spoke of stretched chains, and tensioners failing causing catastrophic engine failure, and an after-market tensioner was recommended (about $170-$300: https://www.hybrid-racing.com/products/hybrid-racing-timing-chain-tensioner-for-k-series-engines or https://skunk2.com/engine/support-parts/340-05-0002.html)
It seems SOME people need to change their chain and tensioner by as little as 65,000mi while others have over 200,000mi on their original chain. It seems the tensioners fail (teeth shear off allowing timing to jump and bend valves/destroy pistons) while sometimes the chains just wear and "stretch" until a timing code (P0341) is thrown indicating a new chain is needed without engine damage).
I must say I am thoroughly confused and concerned at this point. I like the car, but I don't want to keep a future money-pit.
The dealership advised monitoring how clean the head, visible through the oil-fill cap, is, and if it's dirty/sludgy, I should have the chain/tensioner changed immediately (dirty oil damages the tensioner causing it to jump), but if it's spiffy clean, at 125-150k have them remove the timing chain cover for a look-see visually for timing marks, etc), and then assess the situation.
One Indy shop told me that to change the chain, the engine should be removed, or the whole eng/trans dropped out the bottom. The dealer said that they could change everything in place, though when I said even changing the serpentine belt looked ugly, they said even the serpentine belt is miserable.
SO- WHAT ARE THE RECOMMENDATIONS OF THE GROUP?
RE THE WATER PUMP-
How long do the water pump and belt idler/tensioner bearings usually last?
When should I bite the bullet and have it ALL done? It would seem doing the serpentine belt, idler/tensioner, water pump and timing chain/tensioner at ONE TIME would save repetitive labor charges.
Were there any "upgrades" to the K engine during production years based on reliability standards, so later K engines may have better components than earlier ones? In other words, are newer cars equipped with superior components based on failures of earlier built cars from which Honda learned lessons, making my 2008 less liable to problems reported in pre-2008 cars?
Thanks-
Bob