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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
RE: 2004 CRV @169,000 miles.
No oil leaks, but is using about 1/2 quart per 2500 miles or so.

I've been having my oil changed only at the Honda Dealer in Santa Clara, Ca
and they now only use Bulk 5-20 synthetic blend oil.

The last oil change, I asked them to use Conventional Honda 5-20 quarts.

Which Honda oil is better for my high-mileage 2004 CRV ?
 

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Does the oil consumption vary between seasons or is it consistent...?

On my old 2002. It consumed oil, nothing major. I would have to top up (sometimes not at all). But I did notice it would drink more in the summer months.
Are you the first owner? Do you do a lot of highway driving?

Personally the type of oil depends on price and how you use the vehicle. I would stick with the manufactured spec.
However you can use synthetic. I didn't and I will explain why.

I didn't use synthetic on my old 2002. I'd put in the cheapest oil I could find so long it would meet the specification and standard requirements (non synthetic). Convential was $40, synthetic was $80-$100 (CAN).
I drove it for nine years and it ran fine. I also used to do a lot of highway miles.
The only difference was. I changed the oil more often then needed. Every 5000km. Bearing in mind, mine was high milage to begin with and it an get to -35c here.
The reason for the increased oil changes was to clear out any sludge buildup (if there was any), small metal fragments and smoother starts in very cold temperatures. I needed my vehicle to last as I had no money.
Now I could have switched to synthetic. I can go for longer without oil changes. But it would cost more and its pointless changing the oil often.
The increased oil changes allowed my mechanic to keep a eye on the car. That was the key aspect. This paid off because many times he found issues down to wear and tear (damaged boots, drive shafts to left/right front wheels, oil leaks/seals to be replaced etc). Problems with the car were fixed before they became really big.

The K series will burn oil, so don't worry too much about that. Just keep a eye on any oil leaks. Other than that do not let the oil go low. It stretches the timing chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does the oil consumption vary between seasons or is it consistent...?

On my old 2002. It consumed oil, nothing major. I would have to top up (sometimes not at all). But I did notice it would drink more in the summer months.
Are you the first owner? Do you do a lot of highway driving?

Personally the type of oil depends on price and how you use the vehicle. I would stick with the manufactured spec.
However you can use synthetic. I didn't and I will explain why.

I didn't use synthetic on my old 2002. I'd put in the cheapest oil I could find so long it would meet the specification and standard requirements (non synthetic). Convential was $40, synthetic was $80-$100 (CAN).
I drove it for nine years and it ran fine. I also used to do a lot of highway miles.
The only difference was. I changed the oil more often then needed. Every 5000km. Bearing in mind, mine was high milage to begin with and it an get to -35c here.
The reason for the increased oil changes was to clear out any sludge buildup (if there was any), small metal fragments and smoother starts in very cold temperatures. I needed my vehicle to last as I had no money.
Now I could have switched to synthetic. I can go for longer without oil changes. But it would cost more and its pointless changing the oil often.
The increased oil changes allowed my mechanic to keep a eye on the car. That was the key aspect. This paid off because many times he found issues down to wear and tear (damaged boots, drive shafts to left/right front wheels, oil leaks/seals to be replaced etc). Problems with the car were fixed before they became really big.

The K series will burn oil, so don't worry too much about that. Just keep a eye on any oil leaks. Other than that do not let the oil go low. It stretches the timing chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Tony for your detailed answer !

The K Series ???? what is that ?

I change my oil about every 3,000 miles at the Honda Dealer only.
Mostly city driving 12,000 miles a year. 2nd owner.

Noticed the oil consumption after the Honda Dealer started using 5-20 Synthetic Blend 3 years ago.
No Leaks on the ground ..... but oil moisture left side of engine after the above statement.

My question is not about cost.
I want my 2004 CRV to last.
 

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Honda introduced a particular set of four cylinder engines in 2001. These were known as the K series. There were known to be very reliable with good fuel efficiency and power output.
The Wiki article is here: Honda K Series Wiki

In terms of oil. You will be fine if you stick with the manufactures spec. The CRV will last.
Synthetic will let you go longer but costs more. Changing the oil at 3,000 miles is very frequent. If non synthetic is cheaper. I would go with that. I personally don't see any point in running synthetic if I was changing at 3,000 miles. The only difference is that you are paying more for no reason.

Side note. You don't need to have your oil changed at the dealer. If you can find a Honda or Japanese specialist. It may be cheaper and they may be more knowledgeable on that particular vehicle as it is older. So over time as you maintain it some things WILL have to be repaired or replaced. That is just down to age and wear and tear.

So in my case I went to a family run shop that only does Hondas. The father was semi retired and the son was running the shop. There was a wealth of knowledge in dealing with this vehicle. Repairs and parts were cheaper.
As I was changing the oil every 3,000 miles also. The mechanic would just do a quick once over with the vehicle so see things were ok. This might help you over the lifetime of your vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Tony,
I'm at 4000 miles on my conventional honda oil and it is visibly not dirty in comparison to having the previous synthetic honda oil at about the same interval was noticeably dirtier. Hmmm.

Also viewing the wiki link, the only thing not mentioned there, but important is the 2004
CRV has a chain timing belt that doesn't need to be changed, so said the dealer I bought the car at.
 

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Changing your oil often enough according to your driving habits is the most important thing.
For older vehicles, high mileage oil might be best. I don’t use it but I have recently learned a lot about it so I may start. I do my own oil changes so it’s not a big deal to shell out a few bucks more for quality oil. I wait for the Canada day sale of 40% off and stock up. Think about it: if synthetic leaks a bit more maybe that’s because it’s cleaning out the sludge that is preventing your aged gaskets from leaking. If it’s darker maybe that’s because it’s cleaned out and absorbed more of the sludge. Using conventional oil and changing it frequently is a perfectly good strategy and may be the best for an old engine.

if you have an oil leak up at the valve cover level, that could be the cover gasket. On the B20z (1999) engine I have there is one camshaft oil plug that is easy to change that can leak oil.

since you have a mechanic do your service, I’d ask about the oil leaks. If it’s not a lot, it’s not really a problem. Just keep it topped up!
 

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Everything in Moderation
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1/2 qt every 2500 miles (or 1 qt every 5000 miles) especially when using 0W-20, is not excessive, in fact it is pretty typical for the K series engine. That is about what our '06 engine uses, and has since new.

Interesting note: in the past pandemic year, I drove only 2000 miles total and didn't have to add ANY oil. This year, with multiple highway trips out of state, I put on 8000 miles after changing it in April.o_O (The manual trans cars run 3500 RPM at 70 - 75 MPH, BTW)



I'd use a 5W-20 or 5W-30 oil. (I never pay extra for High Mileage oil) If you watch the promotions & rebates you can often get synthetic at the same price as regular oil. Synth flows better at low temps, even in the same (thicker) ratings.


Just don't let the oil level go below the hash mark on the dipstick, as low oil levels wear out the timing chain.
 
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... (The manual trans cars run 3500 RPM at 70 - 75 MPH, BTW)
...
Which is fairly high, I think. My '19 RDX 2.0T ran ~1,800 at 70 MPH, but it had a 10 speed auto trans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
UPDATE (2 months have now passed since original POSTING )

Strong exhaust oil burning smell while sittiing idling.
a month ago, I could not find conventional oil anywhere locally....
and had the oil changed using Honda Synthetic Blend 5w20.

Now 4 weeks later, while sitting in the Drive-Thru getting a
burger, I noticed a Strong burning oil smell with my windows open.

I parked idling and tried to locate the smell.
Tail pipe smell didn't seem to be there.
I opened the hood slightly and snifted. Did not seem to be there either.
No error codes yet.
Local shop recommended smoke test.

The only other thing was ... I had added Techron Gas Treatment a few days earlier as I have done every 3,000 miles for 5 years now regularly.

Suggestions please ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Found the problem.

The engine oil cap which is plastic, had snapped in two and was just sitting there ....

while the plastic threaded section had broken off and was still in the engine threaded section.
When I saw this I freaked and anticipated the worst if a piece of plastic had gotten into the engine.

Fortunately no plastic pieces had fallen into the crankcase. The Dealer was able to remove the broken threaded section safely and replaced the Cap.

Lesson learned:
If you have an older hard-plastic Engine Oil Cap that is plastic, Replace it and avert the Danger that has not yet come.
 

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That's a safe fix for most. Count your lucky stars. I am using syn-blended 5w-20 as stated in the owners manual and I do add oil from time to time as others said on here during the time frame but no leaks or drips seen. But I change oil when the Maintenance light comes on not because of the mileage.
 

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Everything in Moderation
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I change oil when the Maintenance light comes on not because of the mileage.
On the Gen2 the Maintenance Light reminder comes on at 6000 miles. It is purely distance triggered.
 

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i dont think theres much you can do about oil consumption shor tof fixing whatever is consuming the oil. Changing hot viscosity ratings really only helps with the lubrication, not with the burning. Its something you do to help it along but dont realy get to see a benefit other than getting more years out of it before noises develope to the point you gotta rebuild it.

IN fact I had a 2001 subaryu ej25 which was in need of a rebuild, after trying to go up to 20W50 from the recommended 5w40, the amount of smoke increased visibly! Pulled it apart and did a simple re-ring and hone job and all was rosey back on the 5w40.My theory was that there was more pressure remainin for the skirt squirters with the thicker oil, so more oil on the cylinder walls to get up past the rings on the intake stroke to be burnt.

So im not sayign dont bother going higher viscosity, but dont expect it to improve your oil consumption figures.
 
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