Yep 80 ft-Ibs. Almost all Honda’s and Acura’s are 80 ft-Ibs.I recall 80ft-lbs.
220, 221, whatever it takes.What is the wheel torque for a HondaCRV LX 4WD- 2019 Aluminum Rims
LOL... now that is a blast from the past!! I love that movie!220, 221, whatever it takes.
Loosen the nuts and retorque them yourself.I'll drag out an old thread rather than starting one. The manual only states the wheel nut torque for the "spare", no spec for the alloy wheels. My 2019 CR-V presently has lug nuts at "at least" 120 ft-lb, and I stopped there. I expected 80ft-lb and was checking for uniformity, due to very early pulsations (8600 miles). I was only checking prior to going to Honda to ask about rotor warranty. Now I am not sure what I am going to do. The last rotation might have been done by someone who didn't know the spec. Comments?
LOL.... I remember that movie!220, 221, whatever it takes.
Maybe check your owners manual again... carefully.I'll drag out an old thread rather than starting one. The manual only states the wheel nut torque for the "spare", no spec for the alloy wheels. My 2019 CR-V presently has lug nuts at "at least" 120 ft-lb, and I stopped there. I expected 80ft-lb and was checking for uniformity, due to very early pulsations (8600 miles). I was only checking prior to going to Honda to ask about rotor warranty. Now I am not sure what I am going to do. The last rotation might have been done by someone who didn't know the spec. Comments?
Yeah, the reason I asked in the first place is that the latest manual only addressed torque fir the steel spar, not the alloy wheels. So, …, talked to the guy that does our mandatory PA state inspections and let him know that my wrench shows 125 ft-lb. I have an an appointment in the morning for him to see why the torque is so high. I’ll have a Bloody Mary first. CheersMaybe check your owners manual again... carefully.
For the record.. the correct answer is 80 ft-lb. Probably more important that they all be at the same torque more so than the actual torque value... as long as you get it to 80 so you don't have a wheel working it's way loose on the lugs over time.
Personally, I always check and retorque to 80 ft-lbs a week after any service that involved removing the wheels. Better safe than sorry.
There are two steps here. 1) how to create an objective unit of measure. 2) how to apply a unit of measure to work performed. The first is very clinical and objective in establishing a unit of measure. The second generally results in such units of measure to be used in novel ways beyond why they were created.When in school I thought I was taught it (torque) was "ft-lbs" Now I see it mostly mentioned as "lb-ft"..except in this thread.
OK, I looked it up. LOL
The “pound-foot” (lb-ft) is a unit of torque and a vector measurement that is created by one pound of force acting on a one foot lever. The formula for torque in the instance of tightening a fastener would be: Torque equals force times radius, or T=FR. When tightening a bolt, “R” would be the length of your wrench.
The “foot-pound” (or more accurately, “foot-pound-force”), on the other hand, is a measurement of work. Work is the measurement of force over a given distance. So one foot-pound-force (ft-lbf or just ft-lb) is the energy required to move a one pound object one foot of linear distance.
Usually, torque values are based on the size of the stud not on wheel composition.Is the torque the same for aluminum and steel winter wheels? 80 lbs
Usually, torque values are based on the size of the stud not on wheel composition.
Too much torque can warp brake rotors so it's a good idea to check it if some kid at a low buck place "torqued" your wheels.
Look up the correct values in your Owner's Manual - The online downloads can be searched pretty easily.
Torque in a cross-wise fashion, not by doing the fastener next to the one you just did. It is good practice to torque in steps, say 50 then 65, then 80 but I often skip that and use 2 steps.
Some day, we may be able to use N-m like every other country in the world...