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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally converting over to CRV been a lifelong subaru owner but need Honda reliability with a little one on the way. Need you advice!

Which would you choose? I need this car to last 7-10 yrs.

Private Sale $15,400 (may be able to haggle) + PPI + Detail
2015 Honda CRV - 53k miles
2 Owner - 1st owner 1yr10month lease drove 20k miles/2nd owner and seller - has driven it 33k miles in 14 months. Now moving out of country and selling locally. 1st lease owner regular maintenance records this current one has no maintenance records except for one recommended maintenance last month. Is 30k miles in a year without any maintenance a red flag? She said she had changed the oil ect..

Dealer Vehicle: $15,500
2013 Honda CRV - 63k miles
2 owners - all recommended maintenance records and most oil changes records as well
 

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That many miles in a year means all highway.

No records for 1 year of ownership is not even worthy of a consideration as an issue in my book.

Check market values of the vehicles (use kbp not nada as NADA is usually a good bit higher).

Trim levels have no effect on mechanical reliability. It's just accessories and such added.

I personally prefer private sales because Dealerships are usually a lot higher priced when it comes to what you get for what you pay.

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2022 CRV EX FWD 2022 Chevy Colorado
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Like I said in your other post, go with the 2013. It’s rock solid with the old tried and true power train.


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Be aware 2013's suffer from dreaded VTC startup rattle. The 2015's have reported vibration issues, among other things. If there is evidence (documented!) that the CVT fluid has been changed, I would pay small fee to do an Oil Analysis on the 2015 and test drive it at least 50 miles under varying speeds, offering of course to pay for fuel fillup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good call, I’ll look out for the vibration thing. Just made a PPI appt and a reputable auto repair shop and they said they’ll check for how the car was maintained and everything else like it was a car they were looking to buy. He said it’s hard to hide not getting timely oil changes or fluid changes even if it was done recently. That made me feel better.
 

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Be aware 2013's suffer from dreaded VTC startup rattle. The 2015's have reported vibration issues, among other things. If there is evidence (documented!) that the CVT fluid has been changed, I would pay small fee to do an Oil Analysis on the 2015 and test drive it at least 50 miles under varying speeds, offering of course to pay for fuel fillup.
The MM in my 2016 just come on at 50,000 miles to change it at the next oil change. If there is a vibration issue, you will know it immediately but all the people I know with them have had no problems. The 15 run much better than the 13 and get better fuel mileage. I also prefer a private sale over a dealer.
 

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Not sure which way you are going to go here, but if you are thinking "private" make sure you take it to a respected garage and have the vehicle checked very carefully to ensure there are no hidden problems that you will be paying for after a short period of time. May cost a few bucks but could save thousands in the end.
 

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I may be biased as I own a '13 EX, but I'd say it's worth the difference, even with the added 10k miles. All the maintenance records is a good thing too. Is it a Certified vehicle?
Don't let the VTC 'rattle', rattle you. It's not hurting anything. I just did a 500+mile round trip to my brother's in ours. Got 29 mpg and that included 2 hours of stop and go rush hour traffic on the 405 in LA.
What color is the '13?
 

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Both of these vehicles are barely broken in so the mileage wouldn't be a concern for me.

For used vehicles (not CPO) I historically have leaned to buying from an individual as few of them are really skilled a detailing and "hiding" defects. Now this is a generalization as I am sure there are exceptions but it is more a case of what you see is what you get. All dealers are not created equal. There are some stand alone used-car dealerships that I wouldn't buy anything from. With that being said does the dealer in this scenario have a good reputation of standing behind their sales and work?

Beyond the trim differences are they both AWD or FWD?

Hopefully you've made a decision by now and all has worked out great!
 
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