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Discussion Starter #1
I have a brand spanking new 2017 EX-L. I have a ton of great Yakima accessories and plunked down heavy change on new mounts and towers. Bolted them into the Honda-made holes in the roof rails easily enough buuuuut.... The positions are fixed - meaning I can't move the rails forward or back. They're too close together for bikes, kayak mounts, skybox. Also, too far back because the trunk won't open more than few degrees before hitting the back of the skybox.

I just can't fathom how this design made it to the assembly line. Does anyone know how I can move the mounting points? Adapters? The only think i can think of is going to a machine shop or a custom car shop and having them drill multiple holes in the rails to adjust the fore and aft mounting positions.

Thanks!
 

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I'm posting my solution in the reply so people can see my problem and solution.

Here we go.

In order to mount roof rails to a naked roof, one needs to drill and install "plusnuts" - these affix to the roof and permit a bolt to be installed into them, thus securing the rail. Yakima sells these suckers, as replacements, for $7 a pop. I'm looking for bulk, cheaper plusnuts.

The plan is mount the skybox to the crossbars, independent of the the set up being attached to the factory rails. I'll then place this set-up on the rails forward enough to where it won't interfere with the trunk hatch. I'll mark the location of the "new" mount holes and then, with access to the factory rails with the bars towers and box out of the way, drill pilot holes. Larger holes for the plusnuts being drilled, then i can install the plusnuts. I'll use new hex screws, with silicone sealant to "plug" the unused factory mounts and affix the towers to the new mounts in the roof rails.

Voila!

I'll share pictures of my rail hack and report back.
 

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It was like pulling teeth but after many inquiries I found out from Yakima that The Landing Pad 19 uses an M6 bolt and their stock plus nut uses a 10/32 thread. Not compatible. A single Yakima PlusNut is $7! Amazon has a 100 count Steel Cross Nut- Pre-Bulbed - 1/4-20 .280 for $70 (closer, but still way too costly) with shipping. WAY more than 8 I need. I'm going to bring the Landing Pad to a metal shop and see what they offer.
 

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I might be posting this for no other reason than keeping track for some hopeless schmuck like me. I went to a local metal supply place. A warehouse full of nuts and bolts. They came up empty on Plusnuts, or anything like it. I must have been born under a bad sign. Keeping on..
 

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I've used Rivnuts for years in blind hole metal fabrication, and these Plusnuts look to be the same general concept. I even made my own setting tool for use in a hand pop rivet tool for home use (lathe turned down a screw to transition from 1/4-20 to thin enough for the pop riveter). There's even a trick with a bolt, washer and nut for setting a Rivnut without the expense of a fancy or modified tool.

I have a fastener warehouse nearby (Sarjo), but you can even get them at Fastenal. Even Harbor Freight has a tool & assortment, although who knows how good those are!
 

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So after doing a little bit of reading, I found this: http://www.pointsunknown.com/blog/2016/10/lessons-learned-rivnuts-vs-plusnuts/

The Plusnut might be the superior product for thin sheet steel where there isn't sufficient thickness or strength to seat a rivnut. I haven't had an issue with them, but it might be better to use the approved product. They do sell them in bulk packs on Amazon.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Here's a photo of the old rack location and it's interference with the trunk. In addition, the factory bars were so close together that my very well loved skybox could not be mounted.

CRV box3 (480x640).jpg

And to make matters worse, the rails were so close together, forget mounting a bike unless it had a little kid wheelbase.

Forget asking the dealer to redrill the factory crossbar holes. So, I bought a 25 pack of Steel Blind Jack Nuts, Zinc - 1/4-20x0.71" - 25 Pcs - TJU05. Then I drilled four new holes in the crossbars in situ. I did not want to risk removing the rails but in retrospect that may have made it easier. Drilling was scary, and I had to take great care, but it worked out. I pushed the Jack Nuts in then tightened them.

crv box2 (593x589).jpg

During the installation of the bolts to Yakima Skytower 19s several of the Jack Nuts broke. Lesson learned: if the bolt is not exactly straight, if it goes in at an angle or is threaded wrong, the Jack Nut flanges disintegrate. Five of the Jack Nuts has to be replaced. The whole process took an entire day. Kind of a pain in the butt.

Here are the results:

crv box (593x587).jpg

I am very happy with the results. The trunk opens, I can mount bikes, and the rack is soundly affixed. We loaded it up and drive from upstate NY to Long Beach Island and back with zero issues. Total cost was $14 (Jack Nuts and S/H). Overall, a difficult job, but totally worth it.
 

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They have been in fixed locations since at least the 2nd gen (2002), possibly the 1st gen even. So nothing new there as its been that way at least 15yrs.

The CR-V is supposed to use a shorter roof box than the one you already had prior the vehicle purchase.
 

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This is amazing. Thank you so much for working through all of this- I plan on stealing this design for my own. I'm in the same situation, long box from my subaru, naked roof on a '17 with no rails. I plan on buying the honda rails and drilling like you did. Bravo!
 

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You did that in situ. Gutsy indeed!

Curious as to the metallurgy of the original rivnuts and if you will have any dissimilar metal corrosion issues - zinc steel on aluminum. Keep an eye on them....
 

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I am kind of laughing that this problem is so widespread. Also that I posted on this site a very similar and equally slick solution a long time ago.
Kind of funny too how many members dissed me big time for my modification, it works great anyway.

https://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/137-2017-present-official-specs-features-etc-gen-5/135425-2017-crv-roof-rails-cross-bars-review-5.html#post1252306

I used a low profile air powered drill so that I did not need to remove the rails for drilling. Just borrowed it for a few hours from the local tool supply.
Also, vacuum, do not sweep the metal filings or you will scratch the paint.
I did not have the problem with rivnuts failing but I tested like a madman on a piece of aluminum stock

Also, only moved the front one. I was able to use my space case and all with the rear one in stock position.
I used the OEM cross bar but of course it was too short when moved forward. There was enough length to the bar so that I could adjust the width a little and drill and tap some new set screws for a little more width.

Took me all day too but pretty happy with the clean look.
 
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