Updated today with lots of new pics =)

 

Can't help with the gears but I like the story of your build/adventures.
Had I been drinking something the "molten kitty guts" line would have caused major spray on the key board.

 

Haha im glad you enjoyed it! It was fun to revisit all of the memories I had getting to this point.

 

Great build up, the limited slip diff. will really make it a beast.

 

Thank you.

Yeah my hopes with the transmission will be that the limited slip diff will help launch, because when the back wheels have to work, it's just plain slow with one front tire spinning.

That and the gear ratios will keep me in VTEC every time I shift at the red line.

45mph in first gear lol thats just crazy =)

 

Kick the one legged CRV rear diff. to the side for a S2000 rear diff. and get all four wheels digging.

 

I will have to explore this option. It might actually be cheaper than throwing an LSD in the front end.

 

Edited: Wrong parts ordered.

 

Edit: After going to the shop and pulling a control arm, I found out the bushing kit below does NOT work on the CRV. Buying the right ones from http://www.whitelinesuspensionparts.com/

Further edit: These parts are on a 2 month order, and I will get them another day. The suspension is a tricky beast, which must be done properly. I will come back to this, but for now, I am moving on using OEM equipment.

And lets just say, my appointment at the shop is in a week. It cant come soon enough:

Aaaaaand incase that wasnt grunge, gnarley, or plain nasty enough for you, here it is with a flash on:

In other news, I made my own first ever DIY grill. I just had an idea, a couple beers, and I made this. My 'slapped together' DIY post will have the details, in case you dare try this yourself =P

Here's the results: Sorry for the night pics, will post day shots.

P.S. If you're wondering why it looks out of place slightly; It isnt secured yet, I just popped it in place.

With and without the Honda Badge:

Seen this immediately after taking the pictures, made me laugh:

 

Just a day shot of the DIY grill, looks good. Still on the fence about a badge or not.

I'm really tempted to use something like this:

 

Just a day shot of the DIY grill, looks good. Still on the fence about a badge or not.

Go with the badge. Tends to look rice without it!

 

The Honda lettering will look great in the new grille, and will add some 'retro' feel to it.
This whole project is really awesome so far. As a 2 times CRV owner, with a brother who owns a jdm Integra type-R, now I really want to sell my 3rd gen and find a nice 1st gen instead...
As for drivetrain, I'd say go for the LSD first, and if you still lack traction, go for a tougher rear diff, just remember to get the same ratios and probably upgrade the RT4WD system while you're at it (oil cooler might help?)

 

Thank you for your comments!

So thanks to the guys at honda tech, I have this article on a guy who swapped 1st gen CRV RTAWD drive train into a EK Civic (96-00) body, with a 450hp turbo'd engine. Nevermind his insane work to get this all to fit, he touched on replacing gears, fitting an LSD, upgrading the pump shaft (middle drive shaft), and equiping a toggle switch to turn the rear wheels on and off.

Long story short, the CRV transmission has really thick shift forks, which do not fit into regular B series gear synchronizers: from the S80/Y21 transmissions (type R, GSR, Si, LS, ect). So he had to use the 5th gear out of an LS Integra, and shave the fork down to fit it. So this throws my custom transmission down the toilet, unless we can swap shift forks from a s80 into a CRV transmission.

Also, his LSD solution required running the ring gear face on a lathe, reducing it's thickness by nearly 1/4", so the bolts would clear. So this is possible, just more fab work and time.

The pump shaft replacement was out of a suzuki 4WD, which also uses the intermediate bearing like our shafts do, it was just a couple inches short. So he had custom plates made to adapt from the factory shaft to the thicker shaft.

And the rear end is holding on to the power very well with the 450hp engine, and him engaging the rear end into full lock mode on launch. I dont wish to run this mod, but it's a great idea.

Anyhow, here's the thread, for anyone that wants to check it out: how i installed an lsd in a crv awd transmission...

 

I was looking for some older pics of my CRV, I stumbled upon these.

I think this was about this time, 3 years ago. Notice the rust on my hood doesnt exist, or the ding in my grill haha.

I had fitted these rims, belonged to my brother, he gave them to me. 235/40R18, it drove like crap, was taken all over the road by every crevice. I think it was due to the +35 offset.

I cant wait for my new rims, weeee!!!!

 

Rim day has commeth!

P235/50R17 - 0.01% difference from factory diameter.

2013 Honda Civic SI factory pull offs, had the plastic still on the rim.

Paired with a set of Falcon ZE950 all season tires.

Man does this ever ride nice, and it hooks up a heluva lot better!

I'd just like to add that right now it has 4 winter tires on rims, 2 water coolers, 5 filtration systems, tools, filters, and a furniture dolly inside of it. The rear end is slammed haha!

To view a larger image < click here.

 

Those rims look awesome, and love that you get to maintain the H cap!

 

Thank you! And yes that was one of my main concerns. Throw some wheels on it, that say Honda =)

 

Tooling around on the CRV this morning. Fixed a sticking rear hatch handle, and lubricated a squeaky door.

Snapped some more pics of these tires, I cant get my eyes off of them. I feel like I'm driving a monster truck haha.

 

Now you need some coil overs so you can dial in the ride height when loaded.

 

Precisely my thoughts. However, I need to replace my rear bushing set, and upper control arms & compensator arms (toe angle), before embarking on the coil over mission.

 

Edit: Bought wrong parts, please ignore.

 

So these whiteline parts are on some kind of crazy order time. I need something to work for now. I will likely just put in a new set of front control arms with all new bushings, OEM style, or press out the strut isolator bushings in the arms themselves. And replace them with some standard rubber bushings. Anyhow, this front suspension project is curbed for now. I will revisit it properly later, once the right components are all available to me.

Going forward...

First I'll be looking to find the rear adjustments.

Next will come the coil over suspension system. I've found this website, which lists 4 vehicle specific suspension systems: http://www.tunersports.com/products.php?make=24


I cant wait to be done with this suspension business, I need to spend more time under the hood.

 

The D2 Racing set is nice...decisions, decisions.

 

The Ksport set looks good too, I think it has the softer spring rate.

I remember seeing a green set somewhere on here, made in the USA. Those looked nice as well.

 

Looking at the Ksport, they have a set for the gen 4 CRV, I have wanted to lower it, I would have to go a 1/4" at a time, hmmm...wonder if the wife would notice.

 

Bahahaha! Maybe buy some rims and tires at the same time. Blame the new low pros on the ride height.

 

Really nice build!

On the coilover subject I would really recommend these

http://www.fortune-auto.com/fortune500seriescoilovers.htm

Made in the USA, and they offer a CRV specific set. Sure they are alittle more expensive but you get what you pay for

 

Thank you for the reference, I've fired an email off to fortune Canada, hopefully I'll hear back from them.

 

Next up:

If I could just get a damned reply from these guys, I'd order them. It seems they either ignore their emails or just me.



Camber Adjustable Arms, front and back.

http://www.coloradomountainrally.com/store/p8/CRV_Camber_Kit_1997-2001.html



Also on the "waiting for a damned reply" list, is J Spec Performance, for the front strut bar, and rear 19mm sway bar. They are a local dealer that deals UR products, but they just don't seem to reply to my emails either.

http://www.ultraracing.my/catalog/index.php?id_category=607&controller=category


Getting paid tomorrow, and this about sums up all my feelings...

Shut up and take my money!

Edit: Just got a response from Fortune Auto.

I am going to be ordering these, but F-ME they are expensive. You get what you pay for... With the Swift Spring upgrade and Radial Bearings. I've read a lot about these swift springs, people say they are the bee's knees.

Shipping, border taxes, at my front door for UGHHHHHHHHH $1,987.90 Canadian Dollars!

http://www.dsgperformance.com/fortune-auto-500-series-coilover-honda-crv

 

Next up:


Edit: Just got a response from Fortune Auto.

I am going to be ordering these, but F-ME they are expensive. You get what you pay for... With the Swift Spring upgrade and Radial Bearings. I've read a lot about these swift springs, people say they are the bee's knees.

Shipping, border taxes, at my front door for UGHHHHHHHHH $1,987.90 Canadian Dollars!

http://www.dsgperformance.com/fortune-auto-500-series-coilover-honda-crv

$2000?!?!? dang thats race car money . I was gonna just do the radial bearing on mine, fix the coil over spring noise when turning issue. I was gonna use the stock springs didnt even check out the swift springs. Well if you ended up getting them I give you MADDDD props lol

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fortune-Aut...200604181876?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb4f0e574&vxIp=mtr
here is one for 1700 (1300 coilovers 400 shipping to Canada) but then you would have to buy the upgrades, I think the shipping cost would be a deterrent to me.

 

I just bit the bullet, and ordered a set of Ingalls Engineering adjustable front upper control arms. These are CRV specific, and will correct up to 3 degreese of negative camber. They take OEM ball joints for the CRV. This should be perfect for my project.

http://www.ingallseng.com/mmy.php?year=2000&make=59&model=754

www.Summit Racing.com $300 shipped to my front door, I cant complain about that price.

Edit: Cancelled this order, as these won't be needed.

 

I would seriously look at Eibach lowering springs. If I remember correctly from my Honda del Sol days, I got the whole kit, sway bars included and it was a heck of a lot cheaper than $1600. To me that is still racing money. Eibach are worldwide proven, and comfortable.

Just my 2 cents worth, either keep the pics comin', love these builds Dan.

Edit: Just checked, and Eibach doesn't have a kit for the Gen.1 CRV, but H&R springs do, and they are almost as big a company as Eibach.

 

Thanks Rickman, I actually am a fan for H&R and Eibach, very good personal experience here with them and their kits. However, one thing that drives me insane is mismatched sets of springs and struts.

This Fortune company has me completely sold. They hand build each assembly, done by technicians in the USA, who test, tune and ensure the quality of each part. They also ensure that the strut valves are tuned to the spring rate that you are running. They offer an $80 upgrade to replace the crappy spring bearing with a sealed rotating assembly that never needs servicing or replacement. Also, these guys have a spring that no one else on the market has; a true linear coil spring, which equals real ride comfort like an OEM style spring. Their setups are used on expensive cars like EVO10s and Nissan GTRs. The EVOX forum is almost completely full of people running these setups, and they're batsh!t crazy over how good they ride. If something malfunctions, I can drive to Quebec, and have a technician disassemble and repair a shock. The list goes on and on.

I just cant look at Chinese/Malaysian made setups with no North American customer support, or local repair facilities. I've had about 10 personal emails go back and forth between me and the sales rep in Montreal. I dont think any other company can offer me this cushion of comfort lol. So I'm willing to fork out double the price of normal setups, because I will be driving the crap out of these struts.

 

Dan, can you point me to your custom grill DIY thread? I'm wanting to do something similar. Specifically, what wire-mesh did you buy?

 

Here you go Mike:

http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums...m/forums/24-do-yourself-mods/45217-rd1-first-gen-2000-crv-diy-mesh-grill-e.html

And FYI, I used the mesh screening that you find at your hardware store in the Flooring & Tiling section. It's very thin and malleable.

 

hey dan I was skimming through your thread (love the engine swap by the way, really want a gsr head for mine) and I saw you had some alignment after lowering concerns. I dropped mine about 4-5" and was able to get everything damn near within spec wit just some washers in the rear for camber and nothing in the front.

 

hey dan I was skimming through your thread (love the engine swap by the way, really want a gsr head for mine) and I saw you had some alignment after lowering concerns. I dropped mine about 4-5" and was able to get everything damn near within spec wit just some washers in the rear for camber and nothing in the front.

its a little out in the front and rear but not enough to cause excessive wear and I have no pull. hope this helps.

Hey thanks for the comments yoterman87!

So from my research, I've learned that camber kits are primarily for people that want adjustable camber. In the mid 90s, aftermarket suppliers started producing adjustable camber kits for the public, and they pushed them in their tuner mags. Making claims that the negative camber was the cause for people's inner tire wear to be leaps beyond the middle and outer wear patterns. But with modern sports vehicles, we often buy them with -2 camber in the front/rear. They do not suffer from excessive inner tire wear, simply because their toe angles are correct.

With that being said, toe is the primary concern. And like you said, you used washers in the rear, which I hear and read is common practice. However, that's not something I would do. I've already purchased a set of rear toe adjustment arms, and will be buying a set of rear camber arms this weekend. The rear camber because it's already at -2, after lowering that would have me sitting at around -4, and that's a bit too much for me.

Anyhow, thank you for the input. If things around me would just stop costing me money, I'd be done my lowering job already =P

 

its a little out in the front and rear but not enough to cause excessive wear and I have no pull. hope this helps.