I am installing an aftermarket sub in a friend of mine’s CR-V. We believe the easiest way to get an input for the sub, and have it integrated into the factory unit, is by using a line-output converter to tap off the input for the factory subwoofer. I cannot find any labels for the wires connecting to the sub. I have attached pictures of the sub from different sides. Anyone have a diagram that labels these cables or can identify which 2 cables are the + and - input for the sub? Thanks!
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Maxcmei
Hi This is a tricky one! The airbag control is also under the seat and disconnecting that could cause you a few issues. I don't think it's possible to remove the sub without disconnecting it. Best to leave the sub where it is and just bypass it. The sub wires should be pink positive and blue negative. There might be a grey wire for RCA shielding? I think the plug is green but I can't see that on your photos? Your method is correct but an easier way is to buy an amp with high level speaker input and you can just connect the pink/blue direct without any adapter/convertor. Good luck 
Yes you can use the pink and blue as input for aftermarket amp/sub. If you get an amp with high speaker level input you don't need a line output convertor. The amp will accept speaker output as input so you can just connect the pink and blue wires direct to the new amp. The shielding is used should you decide to solder an RCA cable directly to the input. The RCA cable will probably have three wires inside when you strip the cable.
Hi The constant 12V power wire for an an amplifier should be connected directly to the +ve side of the car battery and protected with a fuse as close to the battery as is practical. Certainly within the engine bay. Generally the best earth will be a seat mounting bolt. So a wire direct from the earth point to the negative earth connection on the amp, This should be as short as possible (no more than a meter) and the same gauge as the power supply wire. You will also need a trigger wire. If there isn't one from the head unit you can use an ignition supply. This will turn the amp an and off with the ignition rather than the head unit. This does not have to be a thick power wire.
You need an ignition live for the convertor else it will be on all the time. If the black wire is an earth then you should be ok using it for the convertor. The best way is still to use the pink and blue direct to an amp with high level speaker inputs and don't use a convertor. Have you purchased an amplifier already?
Yep you need a convertor for that. I don't know what the other wires in that connector are for but if one of them is ignition live you should be ok using it for convertor. You could also use it for the remote trigger. Neither will use much power so you shouldn't have any issues blowing fuses! If you haven't got the power wire through the bulkhead yet I found the best way was to poke a metal coat hanger or welding rod through the main wiring harness grommet behind the battery from the engine side. Then tape the power wire to it and pull it back through into the engine bay. No need to remove any fittings inside the cabin.
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