Welcome to the CRVOC forum. Many fine folks here from around the globe.

Click on your avatar in the upper right hand corner, —> Account Settings, —> Vehicle Details. Complete for your vehicle, then hit Save. In this manner, that vital piece of information automatically appears whenever you post.

With 6 generations of the V on the road today, knowing the year & trim level of the vehicle in question helps those asking & those willing to respond.

AFAIK, with a 14 year old vehicle that probably has many miles on it, going up one viscosity level should not cause problems. I think that all Gen3 engines were the same. If your 2009 lasted for that long, I see no reason why the same could not happen to your "new" vehicle if you follow the same maintenance schedule.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

5w-30 motor oil operates in climate conditions as low as -30Cº (-22º F) to temps as high as 40º C (104º F).

 

Our '09 calls for 5W-20 on the oil cap but I run 5W-30 all year.
Maybe I'm just 'old school', but I just can't see running 0W (same viscosity as water?) in anything.

 

Our '09 calls for 5W-20 on the oil cap but I run 5W-30 all year.
Maybe I'm just 'old school', but I just can't see running 0W (same viscosity as water?) in anything.

Yes, I just don't see enough changes done to the 10-11 engines to justify 0w20 other than fuel economy. The important parts are identical to the 07-09 engines that call for 5w20.

 

5w20 was for CAFE as well.

Its going lower and lower.

 

If you look in the Japanese owner's manual of your vehicle you will see the engine was actually designed for a wide range of viscosities from 0W20 to 5W40.
Why then does the NA owner's manual show only one viscosity? It's an EPA CO2 credit requirement. For the manufacturer to claim credits for using fuel saving low viscosity engine oil they can only display this viscosity in the manual so that the owners will blindly believe that using anything else will cause their engines to blow up. A simple strategy that has worked really well.

 

My 2010 CRV with 175,000 KMS on it calls 0W-20. It is using a bit of oil now and my tech suggests using 5W-30 conventional all the time. The oil consumption is hard on cat converters so using the higher numbers should slow the wear on the converter.

 

I just finished my 5000 mile interval using 0w20 for the first time and I'm not really impressed. It burned about 1.5 quarts while the 5w20 was around 1 quart. I'm back with the 5w30 High mileage that has more detergent, I will update the consumption compared to the 0w20.

 

Great I would be interested to hear. My daughter is still driving our old 2005 Accord with 300000 kms does not use any oil between change intervals. I guess Honda built them better back then.

 

It is using a bit of oil now and my tech suggests using 5W-30 conventional all the time.

This seems like a step backwards. I have never heard of a knowledgeable mechanic recommending dino oil over synthetic in a modern engine. Did he explain his logic to you?

I'm back with the 5w30 High mileage that has more detergent, I will update the consumption compared to the 0w20.

I'm seeing some improvement in oil consumption on my 2010 EX-L using Valvoline Restore & Protect in a 5W-30, changing from Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20. I may back off to 5W-20 in the fall.

 

This seems like a step backwards. I have never heard of a knowledgeable mechanic recommending dino oil over synthetic in a modern engine. Did he explain his logic to you?

I'm seeing some improvement in oil consumption on my 2010 EX-L using Valvoline Restore & Protect in a 5W-30, changing from Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20. I may back off to 5W-20 in the fall.

He probably recommended conventional because it's cheaper when you are burning premium oil away. All I use is Pennzoil, I'm currently running the High Mileage version. I would love to try Valvoline Restore & Protect but it's not sold here in Canada. I just put a few ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase a few hundred miles before the oil is due to clean the inside of the engine.

 

He didn’t need to explain it, he’s been looking after all our Domestic and Hondas for 30 years and my daughters 2005 Accord has got 300000 kms on it and still going strong. Honda makes great engines however some 2010 2.4 had excessive oil consumption and Honda was fixing them with a rebuilt top end which corrected the problem. Mine at 175000 just started using a cup every month. It uses less than that with 5w-30 and the cat converter is good. Being retired I only put 8000 kms a year however I still change it twice during that period. Nuff said!!

 

'my daughters 2005 Accord has got 300000 kms on it and still going strong.'

Our '09 has 309,000 kms, 5W-30 Mobil1 fully synthetic, zero additives, uses no oil between changes, happy camper

 

I'm looking to switch to 5w-30 next OCI after running one OCI of Ow-20 Valvoline Restore and Protect for the summer, at a little under 3k into the first 5k of VRP and had to top up with one quart at 2200k into the interval. As an automotive engineer and diving deep into the K24Z1 (07-09 CR-Vs) and K24Z6 (10-11 CR-Vs) differences, there is little difference between the two engine revisions other than the EGR being deleted for 2010 and redesigned to meet higher EPA standards for 2010 model year, which led to the decision of using lower friction piston rings and 0W-20 oil. I likely will only return to 0W-20 oil in the future when the winters get colder here in the Midwest.

 

3000km update with the 5w30 and the oil level has not budged for the first time since I own this car. Usually it would be right under the full mark after around 2500km so definitely an improvement. The engine seems to be quieter and no noticeable loss in mpg.

 

Nice! This makes me more confident to bump up to synthetic 5W-30 for my second OCI of Valvoline Restore and Protect.

 

Good for you! What brand did you settle on? Synthetic or Dino?

Keep posting updates.

 

Good for you! What brand did you settle on? Synthetic or Dino?

Keep posting updates.

I use Pennzoil Platinum on all my vehicles. Currently, I went with the High Mileage Platinum. I'm wondering if the results will be the same with the normal 5w30 Platinum.

 

Our 2010 CRV-EX 4WD was purchased new & calls for 0-20 full synthetic and that is what I've been using. It does not burn oil. However, this is my wife's car who is retired and this car is very low mileage (approx. 15,500 on the odometer) so our experience could be atypical. I would not hesitate to use 5-20 full synthetic if it starts requiring oil to be added between changes.

 

Impressive, not even broken in yet! It must be one of the cleanest in the country with that kind of mileage.

 

With the latest GM fiasco, it proved the thin oils are just to please the EPA. They put out a recall to stop using the 0W20 and started putting 0W40 in their engines. This thicker viscosity myth that will destroy your modern engine is slowly unraveling.

 

My engineering mind is further curious on the differences between the K24Z1 engine (07-09 CR-V) and K24Z6 engine (10-11 CR-V) - they use the same crankshaft and bearings between each from what it seems like through this ancient thread I dug up on the RSX forum when the engines were first released - https://www.clubrsx.com/threads/newer-k24z1-to-k24z3-engines-k24a8.538266/

I can't agree with Lake Speed Jr. enough with this video, and that Euro owners manual solidified it for me. Back to 5W-30 for the life of the car from now on.

 

I use 0w-40 in other cars, very good PAO based oil, unlike most.

 

Plan to do a Blackstone test on my first VRP OCI with 0W-20, and compare to my upcoming 5W-30 VRP OCI.

 

I too will admit to a certain curiosity on the subject, however, in my own case I was able to dismiss it by asking myself two questions: 1) What good would knowing do me?, and 2) It's a 16-year-old car ... who really cares?

 

I found this after watching the Motor oil geek...not sure the specs of that engine, google could be wrong.

Interesting about the dilution and such.

 

Thanks for the info! I'm assuming clearances are in inches? This would mean the K24Z1 and K24Z6 used in the 3rd gen V's would recommend OW-20 at the tightest end of spec and 5W-30 at the high end depending on oil temp.

 

Inches, correct.

I believe thermostat is @ 180-200F range.

 

Sweet. Maybe this means my 2nd VRP OCI will be 5W-20 to be safe, then 5W-30 if that shows no difference. Not that I think jumping from 20 weight to 30 weight will affect it too much.

 

I run 5w-30 across the board in all my engines. Keeps things simple

 

Anyones experience with putting in 5w-30 in colder climates? I know that can affect the flow of oil a tad with extreme temps like I experience in Minnesota, running 0w-20 right now on the 2014 Ex-L