I take off the cable again and retry

 

If you cannot get it started after a disconnect and reconnect of the battery cables, you may have a defective new battery.

 

I was wondering if the car thinks it’s in anti theft mode? The key fob wouldn’t unlock the doors and I reached through rolled down window and unlocked door, alarm went off. Going to take the battery cables off and try again. 🤞🏻

 

The modern electronics in these cars do not like transients that occur when removing and/or attaching a battery.
Removing the negative terminal first then the positive, this to avoid shorting the positive
Have heard some attach the cable by doing the negative first then the positive
Where as I have always done it, attach the positive then the negative.
Don't know if it makes a difference.

Anyway, check the voltage on the battery.
And check the polarity (visually inspect)

 

For me I ground my neg lead out, resets the system. and rehook no issue. in order to save settings you can hook a 12v to the Pos, and neg to neg and take off to save settings.

always make sure before attempting to have stored codes at hand to reset in correctly, then hearing I can not get codes back etc..

fob may need a relearn, windows as well. etc.

 

For me I ground my neg lead out, resets the system. and rehook no issue. in order to save settings you can hook a 12v to the Pos, and neg to neg and take off to save settings.

always make sure before attempting to have stored codes at hand to reset in correctly, then hearing I can not get codes back etc..

fob may need a relearn, windows as well. etc.

How do you ground out the negative lead? Female here, not up on all these mechanic things lol

 

Found doing internet search:

When disconnecting the cables from the old battery, disconnect the negative first, then the positive. Connect the new battery in the reverse order, positive then negative.”

 

The reason for this is the first one you disconnect or the last one you connect will create a spark.
They want that spark to be as far away from the battery as possible, in case of a hydrogen buildup.
Once you understand the reason, the correct order will be intuitively obvious.

 

Is it possible to hook up a small 12v battery to the fuse block under the hood on a gen 5 ?
I did this on 2010 years ago when changing the battery in fear of loosing system memory.
Didn't realize at the time that all I needed was the radio code#.
I will be concerned with this when the time comes for a battery in the 2020.

 

It shouldn't be a problem to get the code:

Honda Radio / Navigation Code Retrieval and Reset Instructions

The official Honda site-instructions for radio/navigation code retrieval. Learn how to find your unique code and reset your Honda audio and navi systems.

radio-navicode.honda.com

I've seen those "Setting Savers", some of them just plug into your cigarette lighter socket (correction: your 12-volt auxiliary power outlet).
My concern would be the battery might not be able to supply the load and the voltage would drop well under 12 volts, possibly causing damage to some electronics.
But the parasitic draw of most modern cars is under 100 ma. As long as you didn't fire something up most batterys could probably handle a 1.2 watt load, at least for a while.

 

I replaced my battery on 2018 Honda CR-V. Now the push button won’t start the car. It shows Brake system failure, ABS Failure, etc on dash. Radio won’t come on. However the lights, brake lights, heated seats work etc.

Key fob won’t lock or unlock the car also after battery replacement in the key.

Is it possible the key fob battery is installed wrong, (reverse polarity) and your CRV is not sensing the key fob.

 

Update: it was the main ignition fuse. Evidently when taking the battery off, something touched and it blew the fuse as a preventative measure to “save” the computer. So, $15 fuse, $95 labor, $150 towing bill, lesson learned. 🤷‍♀️

 

Thanks for the update. Will probably save some folks here that additional $245.

 

I replaced my battery on 2018 Honda CR-V. Now the push button won’t start the car. It shows Brake system failure, ABS Failure, etc on dash. Radio won’t come on. However the lights, brake lights, heated seats work etc.

Key fob won’t lock or unlock the car also after battery replacement in the key.

Just had the same thing happen with no warning... lots of lights for ABS, LKAssist, etc. Thought I had fouled up the computer. Doesn't seem so.
Car sat overnight and then was completely dead! Called AAA to haul to Honda dealer. Tech just started the car from the battery. We think the problem was the battery. The car computer and other electronics are on most of the time and drain the battery. We plan to buy a new battery to be safe. Car is 3 years+ old.

 

Just had the same thing happen with no warning... lots of lights for ABS, LKAssist, etc. Thought I had fouled up the computer. Doesn't seem so.
Car sat overnight and then was completely dead! Called AAA to haul to Honda dealer. Tech just started the car from the battery. We think the problem was the battery. The car computer and other electronics are on most of the time and drain the battery. We plan to buy a new battery to be safe. Car is 3 years+ old.

If its the originally battery thats failed, then likely replacing this will solve the warning light faults etc.

 

Yeah when my battery died I had all sorts of lights and it said break system failure. Seems weird that with all the electronic monitoring stuff the car wouldn’t just say the battery was low. 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

It certainly is possible to only get an alert for the battery or charging system, but generally we get many more alert lights when the battery is dead or low charge.

The reason for this is that electronic systems can generally only follow their normal error checks and alerts when they have proper supply voltage applied. Just like your PC... take away the power or starve it for power and they do all kinds of nutty things. So.. if your battery voltage is below about 10 vdc, you can expect an active light show on your instrument panel. This is a fail safe alert approach by Honda... and the intention at that point is to make sure the drivers knows something is wrong and needs to be serviced immediately. By, yeah.. it does tend to create confusion for owners until they understand this practical reality in modern vehicles loaded with electronic systems.

In the old days, you would simply get a click click click as the starter tries in vain to crank the engine.. and that was clear indication of a failed starter battery in most cases.

As fishycomics noted above, you also get a giant light show as soon as you turn on the vehicle after changing out the battery too.. but this is just all the systems coming back on line from a loss of power, doing self tests, cross checking with other systems, etc... and will self clear after a bit of driving.

 

To let you know the car Infotainment will display Anti-theft reset, press and hold the Power button two seconds.
To let you know when replacing the battery, the warning lights will all display, there is nothing you need to do, unless you want them gone right away, is to exceed 12mph, stop, the car, put in park, shut down, restart the car, all reset., they do not go away till the car exceeds 12 mph and car is "off"
what is on after the car is off. is the evap canister, and other check items.
If one nears the replacement time, that is what to expect a dead battery from nowhere.

 

Yeah I hear ya with the CRV it was just unsettling to think something in the brake system failed but as you said the tell tale clicking noise clued me into it just being the battery. My Ford Fiesta really got me, it threw an engine code saying something was wrong with the pcm. $500 reaming later from the dealership it was just the battery being a little low and best part was the car did have a battery warning light on the dash that never went off so again 🤷🏻‍♂️. They charged $50 to “clean” the battery cable alone.