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Almost 200k miles, recommend Liqui Moly or ATS 505?

9.6K views 15 replies 11 participants last post by  SVTfocusO3  
#1 · (Edited)
My 2012 Honda CR-V EX-L AWD 2.4 (K24Z6 engine) is about to hit 196,000 miles. I’m due for an oil change at 197,000 miles and I’ve been researching how to keep the engine at its best.

I’m considering pouring in 500ml of Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush (Made in Germany, #1 selling engine flush product on Amazon), OR ATS Chemical’s 505 CRO Oil System Treatment and 505 CRF Fuel System Treatment (Made in the USA in Albuquerque, New Mexico, recommended by Scotty Kilmer).

According to Honda of Staten Island:

An engine flush may help if a Honda has high mileage and has neglected maintenance in the past as it will remove accumulated sludge and contaminants. However, aggressive flushing can dislodge larger chunks of sludge or deposits, which may clog vital components.

Alternatives to engine flushing include 1) regular oil changes and 2) engine additives. I’ve gotten my engine oil and filter changed every 5-6.5k miles using full synthetic 0w-20 oil and Honda OEM oil filter at my local Honda dealership.

Would love your thoughts. Should I use Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush or ATS 505 CRO and CRF before my next oil change?
 
#2 ·
You don’t mention in this post how long you’ve owned it, but you said in your last post it was passed down by your parents and you’re the second owner. Presumably they kept up on maintenance and didn’t do extended oil changes.

since you know the history and have been regular with synthetic oil, I don’t think you need a flush.

A fuel treatment has already been done, and if you use top tier gasoline likely wasn’t necessary. I don’t think that’s necessary either.

I would save that money and check if there’s any other maintenance needed:
Brake fluid, PS fluid, air conditioning things, differential fluid, grease the calliper slide pins.

Even if the car is mechanically great, rust may eventually take it down. My 99 has plastic rocker covers and rust was hiding beneath, along with t he wheel wells of course. I’d look to those areas if you want to do something extra for the car.
 
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#3 ·
If you're not having any issues, no need for engine flush products. If you do want to keep engine clean, switching to an oil that's better suited for cleaning would be a better choice. Something with ANs/esters in the oil. Oils like Amsoil's Signature Series, HPL (high performance lubricants) oils, Valvoline's new Restore and Protect, some of Redline's oils, etc.
Some of Mobil 1's oils like Extended Performance used to have a lot of esters and ANs but they've scaled them back the last couple years so they're not as recommended.

These are a lot better than solvent based products that swiftly and quickly "clean" things that can overload an oil filter or block passages in the engine. They're more gentle and easier to the engine.
 
#4 ·
Welcome to the CRVOC forum. Many fine folks here from around the globe.

Click on your avatar in the upper right hand corner, —> Account Settings, —> Vehicle Details. Complete for your vehicle, then hit Save. In this manner, that vital piece of information automatically appears whenever you post.

With 6 generations of the V on the road today, knowing the year & trim level of the vehicle in question helps those asking & those willing to respond.

Glad to see that you are being proactive in trying to keep your vehicle running. As many forum members know, finding & preventing problems is always easier & cheaper than repairing the damage.

Several things you can do to check the general health of your engine. Many of these you can do depending on your DIY skills and/or the contents of your tool box.

1.] Get a reading of all the stored codes that your vehicle's ECU has. This will pinpoint problems that you may not see or feel. Knowing the codes will save money as opposed to throwing parts at it.I

2.] f you know the maintenance history of your vehicle, which I think you do, using the proper weight synthetic oil is one of the best practices you can do to keep your engine working as it should. Keep track of oil usage. Depending on where you live, you might think of going up one grade to a slightly thicker oil.

3.] In addition, doing valve adjustments is another good habit to get into. Check both intake & exhaust valves. Your type of engine is noted for having exhaust valve gaps get shorter. If within range, should be good to go. If any are out of specs, you can adjust them your self. Many YT videos out there. Watch several before you begin. Just takes time & patience.

As a side benefit of doing the valve adjustment, you can look at the underside of your valve cover to determine if any kind of gunk is building up in your engine. With your mileage, you won't be able to see your reflection in the underside. If you notice that the underside of the valve cover looks like your tires, that warrants some action on your part.

4.] When changing out your spark plugs, check the condition of the plugs to see if any one looks different than the others. BTW, don't cheap out on plugs. Many counterfeits out there. Just do a Search Community in the above box for "counterfeit plugs".

5.] Do a cylinder compression check while doing your spark plug replacement. All cylinder pressure values should be close to one another. If not, note which one is different & check the spark plug that was used in it.

6.] Do a drawdown coolant system pressure test.

If you have any question about your vehicle, you can always use the Search Community box at the top of this thread to discover how other forum members handled that particular concern.

Good luck. Keep us posted.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
I wouldn't change a thing. Use same oil as before, of course don't wait for the car to tell you to change your oil, do it between 3000 and 4000 miles and you will get long life.
All my cars are close to 300k miles using non-synthetic oil. At 3000 miles, the oil still has great lubrication properties but its still dirty and gritty.
 
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#8 ·
I'm not a fan of engine flushes in general, but
Liqui Moly Motor Oil Saver is a good product to use every 20k miles or so to keep seals in good condition. it works . In a post 2000 year model vehicle, 3k mi oil changes are overkill (unless doing lots of short distance trips or other severe service such as driving on dusty roads), due to modern oils and engine design. For most conditions 5k mil oil changes are fine.
 
#10 ·
My 300K mile 09 at every oil change I replace a 1/2 qt of motor oil for 1/2qt of tranny fluid. Its added into motor for the entirety of oil life, around 5k oil gets changed. But tranny fluid is high in lubricity and detergents for cleaning inside of engine motor. Works amazing in cleaning carbon,oil sludge build-up,and keeping VVT/VCT Systems operating at peak performance. Read about it yrs ago and implemented using it after 150K, 8yrs ago with no problems from using tranny fluid. Just a FYI if engine needs cleaned up internally.
 
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