I would recommend having the dealer troubleshoot the problem, they have the diagnostic equipment to home in on the problem without replacing parts. That being said, since you have replace the shut valve and you're sure the tubing is clear the next possibility is the FTP (fuel tank pressure) sensor. The PCM monitors the pressure in the tank to verify the shut valve is opening and closing correctly and sets the p2224 code if it doesn't see the correct pressure.

 

Did you clear the code after replacing the items mentioned?
If you do not clear the check engine light then it will take a little time for the engine to clear it.
The vehicles needs to test the evap system before it will clear the check engine light.

Vent valve stuck closed? The vent valve is a normally open valve.
Meaning when no power is applied then the valve will remain open
If it is stuck closed then it could mean the hose leading to it is clogged
Or the wire that controls the valve is shorted to power.
If you have access to a diagram of the system then look at where the vent valve lives
It will help to troubleshoot. Of course I could be wrong??

 

I would be curious if this is the infamous poisonous spider nest TSB.

edit: here it is... I think it might have been first found in a civic or an accord, but then they later applied it to a bunch on Honda vehicles. I found a link here:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=29130

 

Thank you for replying.
I did clear a code after replacing valves.
I checked for the spider nests. I disconnect and blow the hose #9.
I will replace Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor #10 on diagram and will see what happen.
Thank you guys again for all your help. I will post here after replacing FTP sensor.

 

I replaced fuel tank pressure sensor today. Cleared the code. Fingers crossed.
Also, as you can see on the picture above, there is three hoses that goes into the canister.
Pipe on the middle getting vapor from fuel tank.
Pipe on left going to purge valve and then to the engine.
Pipe on right going to atmosphere.
Please correct me if I wrong.
So when I blow in the middle pipe in the canister and close the right pipe with my finger, air coming out from left pipe easy. But, when I close the left pipe, and blow air in the middle pipe, I have to blow hard for air to come out from the right pipe.
Is this normal and it should be like this, or I have a blocked canister?

 

While I haven't looked at a schematic yet. typically the car's ECM turns on a relay or valve by grounding one side of the coil while the other side is tied to the positive of the battery. I'll see if I can find a drawing an let you know for sure.

 

Check engine light just shows up again. P2422

 

You've done a lot of work but now I think it's time for a trip to the dealership. You definitely don't want to keep running in circles.

 

Today I disconnected Vent valve and start the car. I have battery voltage on that socket. Then I connect another Vent valve, that I got from junk yard, to that socket and valve didn't move or made a clicking noise. But if I connect that same valve straight to a battery it works (moving and clicking). I tried this for 3 valves that I got from junk yard - same thing happened. I am so confused now. How is that possible? Same voltage and it works from the battery, but not from the socket under car?

 

Yes the ECM/PCM energizes the valve by grounding one side of the coil. Also the vent valve is only closed during a EVAP leak test.

 

For what it's worth, your car has the cleanest under side I have seen in awhile.😃

 

Traylaw, so in other words, everything works as it should? Is this totally normal for valve to not operate while I connect it to the socket with voltage?

 

The valve is normal open all the time and is closed during a leak test to allow the the engine intake manifold to pull a vacuum on the fuel tank. The PCM then closes the purge valve and monitors the fuel tank vacuum. If the vacuum holds than the leak test passes and the vent valve is de-energized (opens). The engine than goes to normal operation with the purge valve modulated open/closed to allow fuel stored in the canister to be sucked into the engine intake manifolds.
Sorry I didn't answer you concerning your test of blowing air into the different ports. But I don't know for sure if you should see any resistance blowing into the tank vent with the purge port closed. With the vent valve closed (energized) and the purge port blocked you shouldn't be able to blow any air into the canister. But if the vent is open I would think it should be free flowing with little resistant but I don't know for sure if there is any resistance since I have never performed a blow job on a carbon canister.
But here is a test you can perform. With the car turned off measure the resistance between the negative pin on the car side of the vent valve connector and chassis ground it should read open circuit.

 

Canister change fixed the problem.

Thanks to everyone for your input. It was very helpful to understand how this system works.

According to the blowing air to the different ports, I can confirm that it should be no resistance blowing air to the tank vent with the purge port closed.
It was very noticeable when I did this test to my old and new canister.

 

Canister change fixed the problem.

Thanks to everyone for your input. It was very helpful to understand how this system works.

According to the blowing air to the different ports, I can confirm that it should be no resistance blowing air to the tank vent with the purge port closed.
It was very noticeable when I did this test to my old and new canister.

View attachment 147829


View attachment 147830

I was thinking replacing the vent valve...but...after seeing this, should I try replacing the canister as the first step?

 

I have this check engine code on my 2014 crv.
I replaced vent valve, purge valve, gas cap.
Check engine light still shows up.
Vacuum lines and connectors looks new.
Please help what else it could be.

😂😂😂 I have the same code for my honda
crv2014 since last September, but I am still driving with it...I was thinking about fixing it by myself but didn’t find useful information. 😂 thank you for posting so much important information.

 

I would try to blow in the canister ports first. Doesn't cost you anything. Make sure you remove the vent valve while doing this.
Also you can check if valve is moving when connected to the battery.
Blow the air to the ventilation pipe also to see if it has any blockage

 

Thank you, I am gonna fix it...finally, with my colleague's help, after a whole year. lol.
I drove with that light on from Michigan to California, safely~~~
I went to an auto care store before leaving, and bought the solenoid as the told, but they were too busy to replace it for me. Have to fix it as the smog test failed....😅Hope replacing the solenoid will clear the light.