I'll probably make several posts with a few pictures per post to get this all documented.
Daughter's '06 EX finally had the battery go south. Fortunately (?) I am off work and she was close, so took the Halo out of the wife's car and got her back home. Had already bought the parts for the swap, as battery going dead was expected sooner or later. Pic below of the old one. Notice the j-bolt on the inboard side. I don't know if this was original to the car or not, but I was able to reuse it and didn't need either of the j-bolts I bought from the dealership. Napa took it as a core even though I bought a group 24F battery for the install. 8 years out of this old one, according to the service records we got with the car from the PO. (Bought the car last summer.)
Tray with battery removed. The wire along the inboard platform rail is the negative battery lead from the post to the engine (or transmission) case. I didn't like its location as I would like to easily access transmission dipstick. I thought I might have to bend the platform rails out a bit, so this would have encroached further into gap to get to trans stick. You can just barely see the top (yellow) of the transmission dipstick in this pic. Drilled an additional hole (3/16") to have cable tie to hold negative battery cable on underside of tray platform.
I bent the outboard flange/rail of the platform completely flat(ish). And bent the inboard rail out (toward the engine) a bit to make a little more room for the Odyssey battery tray. This probably wasn't necessary, but it did help to space the j-bolt away from the battery a bit more. The j-bolt with the current 51R battery sits away from the battery due to the nature of the bottom hole location and top strap hole location, so this bend accomplishes a similar amount of spacing between j-bolt and battery, though whether it's necessary is debatable.
Above, outboard rail flat (enough). I believe with the parts list provided in other posts, a person could use this hole for the non-engine side j-bolt and Odyssey hold-down strap. I didn't go that way, as the sheet metal here was single (not two sheets spot-welded together), unlike the engine side. So I figured it would be too flexible. And it turned out, it's barely visible after the battery and tray are in, so it's of little use anyway.
Both plastic clips to hold wiring harness to battery platform are detached. Obviously necessary to detach the one on the left, due to the nature of the bend required in the flange/rail. The right one probably wasn't necessary. The harness is pretty stiff, due to its size, so it's not going anywhere. Put a couple of cable ties on it to hold it to the radiator crossmember yoke, and hold it away from battery box a bit.
Next post...
Daughter's '06 EX finally had the battery go south. Fortunately (?) I am off work and she was close, so took the Halo out of the wife's car and got her back home. Had already bought the parts for the swap, as battery going dead was expected sooner or later. Pic below of the old one. Notice the j-bolt on the inboard side. I don't know if this was original to the car or not, but I was able to reuse it and didn't need either of the j-bolts I bought from the dealership. Napa took it as a core even though I bought a group 24F battery for the install. 8 years out of this old one, according to the service records we got with the car from the PO. (Bought the car last summer.)
Tray with battery removed. The wire along the inboard platform rail is the negative battery lead from the post to the engine (or transmission) case. I didn't like its location as I would like to easily access transmission dipstick. I thought I might have to bend the platform rails out a bit, so this would have encroached further into gap to get to trans stick. You can just barely see the top (yellow) of the transmission dipstick in this pic. Drilled an additional hole (3/16") to have cable tie to hold negative battery cable on underside of tray platform.
I bent the outboard flange/rail of the platform completely flat(ish). And bent the inboard rail out (toward the engine) a bit to make a little more room for the Odyssey battery tray. This probably wasn't necessary, but it did help to space the j-bolt away from the battery a bit more. The j-bolt with the current 51R battery sits away from the battery due to the nature of the bottom hole location and top strap hole location, so this bend accomplishes a similar amount of spacing between j-bolt and battery, though whether it's necessary is debatable.
Above, outboard rail flat (enough). I believe with the parts list provided in other posts, a person could use this hole for the non-engine side j-bolt and Odyssey hold-down strap. I didn't go that way, as the sheet metal here was single (not two sheets spot-welded together), unlike the engine side. So I figured it would be too flexible. And it turned out, it's barely visible after the battery and tray are in, so it's of little use anyway.
Both plastic clips to hold wiring harness to battery platform are detached. Obviously necessary to detach the one on the left, due to the nature of the bend required in the flange/rail. The right one probably wasn't necessary. The harness is pretty stiff, due to its size, so it's not going anywhere. Put a couple of cable ties on it to hold it to the radiator crossmember yoke, and hold it away from battery box a bit.
Next post...