Over revving an ice cold engine everyday... sounds like a good idea. Wonder why honda didn’t just come up with this.

 

You forgot the <<SARCASM>> emoji. :beb:

 

That's a terrible idea. Most engine wear occurs when the engine is stone-cold. You do *not* want to be running it near redline continuously at that time.

 

Shhh.. go with it ... :snork:

 

I'm surprised Honda hasn't post this bulletin for their customers. For those of us whose car is slow to warm up or is suffering the heat problem, try this trick. Don't bother warming up your car. The 1.5L is very very very slow to warm up. Don't ask me how I know. Instead, right after starting your car, put it in L and start driving. While driving, remember to keep your RPM at least 3000-4000, the closer to the red line the better. Keep this up until your temperature needle is in the middle of the gauge. Then drive normally afterward.

Let me know if this trick helps you and don't forget to give me thanks.

This is the way to sharply decrease the life of the engine.

 

What about start the engine and let it sit there for a few minutes idling in gear with the parking brake set?

 

This was a piece of horrible advice given by Robbyg in another thread.

He suggested revving the engine to 4000 RPM as soon as you start up the car and drive.

 

Nope!
The OP in that thread said that he keeps his RPM below 2300 while driving in order to Baby the engine. I said that he should be driving at 3000-4000 RPM. I assumed that he understood the engine needs to warm up slowly over a 10 minute period before he starts driving. Of course everyone who wants to find a fault with my posts assumed I meant get in the car and just Rev her up and go. So yes my mistake for not mentioning the obvious thing that even a novice driver already knows.

I think the OP of this post is stating the same thing but he should not be saying to not to give the car time to warm up the oil and cylinder walls, that is a bad idea.

Putting it into Low after the engine has warmed up, allows you to maintain Revs, generate extra heat and not be going too fast in the snow, that is a good idea.

BTW Bluegrass can you please show me where I said:

He suggested revving the engine to 4000 RPM as soon as you start up the car and drive

If not it's another deliberate misquote.

 

LOL- first rule is never rev your engine up until it reaches normal operating temperature.

 

There's at least two good reasons for keeping engine speed low until operating temperature has been reached. Oil flows quicker and better to the furthest away lubrication sites in the engine at warmer temperatures. Piston to cylinder wall clearances will be at their minimum value when cold which accelerates engine wear.

 

I have found that starting a small fire just beneath the engine about 15 minutes before departing works equally well.:kaboom

 

eh you know that back in WWII, the Germans fighting in Russia during the brutal Russian winter lit up fires underneath their vehicles' oil pan to help them start, right? So your suggestion might not be farfetched.

 

I'm surprised Honda hasn't posted this bulletin for their customers. For those of us whose car is slow to warm up or is suffering the no heat problem, try this trick. Don't bother warming up your car. The 1.5L is very very very slow to warm up. Don't ask me how I know. Instead, right after starting your car, put it in L and start driving. While driving, remember to keep your RPM at least 3000-4000, the closer to the red line the better. Keep this up until your temperature needle is in the middle of the gauge. Then drive normally afterward.

Let me know if this trick helps you and don't forget to give me thanks. <img src="http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.png" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />

I have found that starting a small fire just beneath the engine about 15 minutes before departing works equally well.<img src="http://www.triumphrat.net/images/smilies/headexplody.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Head Explody" class="inlineimg" />

I just connect one of my welders across the block and let the current warm it up.

 

I don't think many of us will fall for the joke. If you really thinks its a good idea to do that you need to do some reading on how engines work

 

The factory set that red line engine speed on the conservative side too. You should be able to tach it well over the red line with no problem.

 

Thanks all for your opinions. This was the advice given by robbyg and I just wanted to show how ridiculous his advice was. Like you said, "It's your car, not his".

 

Time to throw a monkey wrench in.

For 25 years now I've worked in the Engine Engineering department for a large multi-team NASCAR racing company. We have built R&D race engines from new components with the purpose of testing maximum power under different conditions and we always achieve the highest torque and horsepower with a cold engine that has never been run before. Test parameters are: new engine with pre-heated oil in the system, cold coolant, and oil pressure established; start the engine and immediately to 9000 RPM at full load.

 

Sitting within the Engineering department doesn't mean you're an Engineer. Let's be clear about that.

But I will for once agree with you regarding the test mentioned, because every OEM does the very same test.

Ford even had a Ecoboost torture test campaign video series out there, bragging that it survives this crazy test and then the same abused engine can go out and races the Baja. Kinda cool to watch.

 

OK fellow CRV ers..I need help....been testing for a week now and same thing every time

COLD START
....remote start the CRV and louvers close and with in 5 seconds they open and fan comes on.....leave it running full 10 minutes and no heat

...manual start it and louvers slowly close and fan dose not come on at all....2 to 3 minutes and warmer air....runs 10 minutes and its great inside

why to the louvers close and then open and fan comes on only in remote start?......does this seem right?

 

I don't think anyone has answered why the shutters don't stay closed and the fans stay off until a set temperature is reached. We need a direct line to Honda's engineers to answer that.

 

We hit below freezing, this morning, for the first time, since I bought my 2018. I was about 5 minutes into my morning commute, when I heard the fan kick up and felt warm air coming at me (HVAC was in Auto). All in all, I'm happy with that.

 

Bobby, you’re not worth my time with your little insignificant insults , never mind your fictional posts. There’s no ignore button here but fear not, I will certainly skip over your posts. I only hope you don’t lift your leg on every thread, so I don’t have to do so much scrolling past your stuff.

 

There’s no ignore button here...

Open up your user settings (Upper right), go to My Settings > My Account > Edit Ignore List

 

I can't believe some of these opinions are coming from anyone sober -- must be time for 'last call.'

 

I'm surprised Honda hasn't posted this bulletin for their customers. For those of us whose car is slow to warm up or is suffering the no heat problem, try this trick. Don't bother warming up your car. The 1.5L is very very very slow to warm up. Don't ask me how I know. Instead, right after starting your car, put it in L and start driving. While driving, remember to keep your RPM at least 3000-4000, the closer to the red line the better. Keep this up until your temperature needle is in the middle of the gauge. Then drive normally afterward.

Let me know if this trick helps you and don't forget to give me thanks.

Haha, you summed it up really well, ColdHonda. I didn't bother respond to his weasly posts because he is full of assumptions, you know.

It's very Interesting Jtuber that you started this thread with that first post and you are now making statements like this.

 

My purpose for this thread was to show how ludicrous that advice was and as bluegrass pointed out rightly so, it didn't come from me. It was more of a sarcastic parody of that irresponsible suggestion. So the credit goes back to the rightful author and I'll move on. Cheers.

 

Yeah if you say so :headscratch:

 

Interesting ride home today in the snow. Of course traffic was bumper to bumper. I average 8-12 mph for over an hour. D, S, L......didn't seem to matter. I couldn't get the Scangauge to read above 158F. Honda temp bar about 1/3 up. I had the heat on high, 3/4 fan and set to defrost and heat. What was remarkable was for about 2 minutes I turned the temp setting all the way down. Within that time the temp went to 185f and it you could feel the difference coming out of the vents. As soon as I set it back to Hi it came back down to 158-60F in about 3 minutes. Yes the heater sucks on the CR-V

 

When you're driving with a Scangauge I wonder if you would be willing to try a test? Next time you're out there in the same conditions as above watch the transmission temperature to see if it varies also and what it's range is. When you've come to a full stop what does the transmission temperature do when you intentionally raise the RPM to 2000 in gear while stopped and what does the engine temperature do and the heat from the heater?

 

not a good idea, damage to the engine & waste lots of gasoline!

 

yes it sure does, just like the rest of this car!!!

 

Since Mr. FAST is not online yet, here's what I observe (tranny temp). From cold start, coolant temp and fluid temp read the same. Coolant temp rises to +/-180F, tranny temp may be 100-110F. Tranny continues to very slowly rise and eventually equals coolant temp after maybe 30-45 minutes in-town driving. I have seen fluid temp reach 229F while coolant temp remains +/-180F. When stopped at a light I have noticed tranny temp drop 2-4 degrees while coolant temp has risen to 210F.

I'll have to try the gas/brake while in gear thing and report back.

 

Has anyone confirmed the CVT is cooled by the radiator coolant. And if so, what order is the radiator coolant prioritized to go to. Engine, Heater core, or CVT. One would hope outside temperature would help determine the order.

 

There’s no connection between the CVT and the radiator. Engine coolant flows from the engine to the hockey puck on the CVT and back to the engine. Coolant flows to/thru the radiator only when the t-stat begins to open. When the motor starts, coolant flows in a loop......block/head/heater core. The radiator is added to the loop only when the t-stat begins to open. The t-stat opens very slowly and “hovers” in an infinite number of positions between closed and full open. The t-stat begins to open only slightly at about 177F.

 

Assuming the CVTF warmer is sending coolant to the cvt to warm it, if it takes the warm coolant before it has a chance to go to the radiator or heater????