No idea here unless its a fuse. If you have the extended Honda care warr, I would head to dlr.

 

Have your battery tested. Simple first step, any auto parts store will do it, or any service center.

FACT: a bad battery may still start your easy to crank engine, but it may glitch your various electronic systems when you start your vehicle.

If the battery tests good, then sounds like you need to visit the dealer.

 

2017 Honda CR-V EX-L w/ 76200 miles. Just this weekend our Oil Maintenance light came on - I've checked the Oil which is OK and is not showing signs of H2O. We live in Florida so the car hasn't seen extreme cold weather.
My wife was driving this afternoon and the Instrument Panel went all BLACK - She had no problem driving home.
Sitting in the driveway when I get into the car the start button is flashing WHITE. I press the Brake Pedal and the Engine Start/Stop button is solid WHITE. I Press the START Button -- the CAR Starts but the Start Stop Button is now SOLID RED and the car is running but the BREAK ICON Light is SOLID RED - but nothing else is showing on the Instrument Panel. I CAN NOT take the Car out of Park or move the SHIFTER into another position.
When I press the start/STOP Button I get a quick beep-beep-beep and then the car powers down. The Key Fobs do not adjust the Passenger seats, and the walk away power lock does not work with either Key Fob (#1 or #2) .
With the car running -- the turn signals, the head light and high beams Icons all work - but nothing else seems to be working on the Instrument Panel.

 

Have you changed your battery? Many here have been replacing the car's original battery at about three years of ownership. A dead or dying battery could cause your symptoms.

The oil maint light usually indicates that it is time to change the oil.

OH! And welcome to the forum! Hope you stick around after this issue is resolved!

 

Maybe reboot the car by disconnecting and reconnecting the negative cable from the battery?

 

I'll give the reboot a try in the morning. Thanks for the feed back --- Good Ideas

I replaced the Battery with a O'Reilly SSB 51RPRM 24Mth battery back in Sept. 2020
We've had the Oil changed 5 times so far - just time to do it again and thought maybe the Instrument Panel notice could impact the electrical system.
Been a member of the Forum for since 2017 and read often -- just the first time I've had problems with the car and could find anything close in the forum.

 

I'll give the reboot a try in the morning. Thanks for the feed back --- Good Ideas

I replaced the Battery with a O'Reilly SSB 51RPRM 24Mth battery back in Sept. 2020
We've had the Oil changed 5 times so far - just time to do it again and thought maybe the Instrument Panel notice could impact the electrical system.
Been a member of the Forum for since 2017 and read often -- just the first time I've had problems with the car and could find anything close in the forum.

I did miss that...In that case, congrats on ~3 years of trouble free CR-V ownership!

 

Reboot didn't help - in fact now besides the Instrument Panel being black -- now the Entertainment System is also blank and asking for a PIN number. No idea what or where that came from.
We had to have the car towed to the Honda Dealer. The Tow Truck operator started the car, and using a very small screwdriver pressed a 'button' at the base of the shifter which allowed him to shift the car and back the car out of our driveway and up onto his flatbed tow truck.
The car is now at the dealer waiting to plug in the diagnostic adapter to see what's happened.

 

Keep us informed of the outcome.

First time I have ever read something like this. Bizarre to say the least.

 

So as i wonder now could the shift knob have broken? hmm to cause the car not o get out of Gear how did it feel as you tried to press it

 

The side button would not budge - so was getting no response from the Gear Shifter. The Tow Truck operator using a small screw driver went to the base of the shifter and reaching below where I couldn't see anything pushed (what he said was the Manual Break Release) button and was able to shift the car. I didn't drive it but it seemed that he had to use a fair amount of gas to get the car to move. I'm Thinking that maybe the BREAK may have still been on --- but that's just my OPINION.

 

Seems that we blew a FUSE --- don't know which fuse, but I'll update a post when I find out. The Shop had never seen anything like this before -- they called and asked if it would be alright to drive the car some today to see if they noticed anything odd. I'll also get the oil changed and rotate the tires. So I guess my car will be used today for the Shop's Pizza or BBQ run-- just glad it's not Fish Friday.

 

Lol not at you, great to know a fuse blue than anything more serious, keep us all posted.

 

Car is BACK and everything checks out. They Have NO Idea how or why the fuse was blown.
Inside fuse box: FUSE D7 'METER' a 10A fuse was all they found wrong.
COST: $130 Dealers Trouble Shooting fee.
$7.35 to replace Blown Fuse, Replaced and drove the car - All Systems operating as designed.

Of course while Dealer had the car they found a few things that needed attention. Oil & Filter Change, Tire Rotation, Air & Cabin Filters replaced, along with a Multi-Point inspection.

All-in-All >> Could have been much worse.

 

All-in-All >> Could have been much worse.

Indeed, but least now its all resolved. Happy motoring!

 

I just had the exact same thing happen to my wife's 2017 CR-V EX-L 76302 miles. We had the car towed to Honda dealer, who found that the inside fuse box (Under the steering wheel?) that Fuse D7 (10a) had blown. They replaced the fuse and I'm back on the road.

 

Hello Thedarknight
I took the CRV to the Honda Dealer this morning looking forward to a very hefty bill. They just called and said the problem was a blown fuse under the dash. Thumbs up to Coggin Honda of St. Augustine Fl. Have heard several good reports on this Honda dealer lately but was still concerned. They are 10 miles farther away from our local dealer but they now have a lifetime customer. Thanks again to Coggin Honda for being such an honest dealer. And thanks for your reply to post.

 

I posted a week ago about the FUSE.

Well i got Déjà vu all over again - Friday evening >> we had a repeat failure.
My wife was at a local mall, and while backing out of a parking spot, the Instrument Cluster went all BLACK - AGAIN. A Text in YELLOW told her to put the car in Park.
This time she could not POWER OFF the car or shift out of park.
I was 25 minutes away. I was able to use a small screw driver and press the Break Release button and put the car into gear. Straightaway I drove to our local Ron Norris Honda in Titusville FL which was just 2 miles away.
There the same Mechanic who worked this issue a week ago came out and showed me that when the car will not power down -- Press the START Button (3) times real quick to power off the car.

Dealer is looking into why - Monday.

 

Funny but I found another post with almost the exact same issue
Instrument cluster
stormynights


-- I replied to his post about my blown fuse. But this morning he took in his 2017 CR-V and got the fuse replaced and he's now a happy camper.

 

Déjà vu all over again - this Friday evening >> a repeat happened. My wife was at a local mall, and while backing out of a parking spot, the Instrument Cluster went all BLACK. A Text in YELLOW told her to put the car in Park.
This time she could not turn off the car and also could not shift out of park - after she put the car in park.
I was 25 minutes away. I was able to use a small screw driver and press the Break Release button and put the car into gear. straightaway I drove to Ron Norris Honda in Titusville FL which was just 2 miles away.
There the same Mechanic who worked this issue a week ago came out and showed me that when the car will not power down -- Press the START Button (3) times real quick to power off the car.

Dealer will be looking into why - Monday.

 

Hopefully they don't try to charge you another $130 B.S. trouble shooting fee. Anytime a fuse blows its usually an indication that something caused it and it will keep happening until they find the root cause. Good luck this could be painful.

 

Merging these two threads due to similar content 👍

 

Only common issue for the two times that it's happed was my wife was backing out of a parking spot. and the car instrument panel went out.

 

SOLUTION...
Black-Out Instrument Panel - Dealer called today and said they found a short in the wires running to the Rear-View Mirror. Seems that when we park, we were hanging our hard plastic Handicap Parking Placard from the mirror. This sharp edged piece of plastic had cut into the thin wiring harness running to to Mirror which is tied into the Rear View Camera in the rear Cargo/Liftgate. When we shifted the car into reverse, the Rear Camera shorted which caused the blown fuse (not every time of course) -- which caused the instrument panel to go black.
So waiting for a new wiring harness and a $700 parts & labor repair bill to fix.

 

Have you looked to see if the damage is visible?

 

Or a piece of black electricians tape.

 

Gotta love dealer repairs! A mere mortal would cut out the bad portion of the harness, solder in some replacement wires and coat the whole mess with heat-shrink tubing and electrical tape (tubing for the wires, tape for the harness as a whole.) But the dealer's gotta replace the whole harness as a unit, because god-forbid a tech be trusted with a soldering iron and heat gun!

If I were in your place, I'd thank (and pay) the dealer for their diagnosis (I'm sure it wasn't an easy one!), and take it to a shop that will perform the daring feat of "basic wiring harness repairs".

 

I don't fault Honda for requiring dealer service staff replace the entire wiring assembly. It is the best move, though it may or may not actually be the needed move. Understand that it is Honda, not the dealers, that specify how service and repairs are made to their vehicles. Hondas main concern is reliability (not cost) of any repairs performed, and like most motor vehicle manufacturers.... they go more and more with field replaceable units.. which would include wiring harnesses in the FRU list. This brings consistency to service and repairs under the brand... rather than free for all repair procedures by random techs at dealerships.

There are several reasons for harness replacement over repair, the most important of which is A) harness integrity is clearly compromised if there is a shorted wire, and there is no easy way to tell if that is the only thing where integrity of the harness is lost. B) Auto service techs are NOT electronics technicians, so as a whole are not qualified to repair anything electrical other than via part number replacement. They may actually create more issues than they fix if they tried.

I too would repair rather then replace if my vehicle was out of warranty, but I would either do it myself as an experienced electrical engineer, or I would find a shop that specializes in electrical wiring repairs in motor vehicles as that is the only people I would trust other than myself to make actual repairs to a damaged harness. Beyond that, harness replacement is the best move.

 

Since the car is out of warranty, find an auto shop that does wiring and see if they can repair the damaged section as Sirwired suggested . Probably a lot cheaper..

 

I am a little surprised that the plastic handicapped placard is sharp enough to cut the wiring...

 

Heh... ever had a paper cut? Same principle.

And yes.. plastic sheets like a placard do tend to have "crisp" edges and given enough time.. could indeed cut through something through normal vibration, bumps, turns, etc.

Granted.... this particular harness is NOT expected to see bad weather, manhandling, cuts and scrapes, etc... because of where it is located.. so I bet that insulation is much less than say in the engine compartment or interior panels where there are metal edges, pass through grommets and possible weather or temperature effects.

 

Wife just got home with our 2020 Touring. Funny thing, the wiring to the mirror is covered in a rubber like tubing, and...get this, it hangs BELOW the shaft that holds the mirror. Hard to see how it could be cut by the placard, at least the placards I am familiar with in AZ but what do I know? I haven't seen the car is question.

 

Time for a real experiment then? You know.. put up a plastic placard on your Mirror and see what happens over time?