Should be fine.

 

Appreciate dat👍😎

 

Don’t forget wheel chocks or an equivalent.

My shortest jack stands are 2 tons that go up to 17-3/16”. My shortest lift jack is a 2 ton Walker, goes up to 19”. They both work fine for the CRV.

I previously had one of the small a small trolley jacks that went up to 14”. That was insufficient for the CRV.

 

Make sure you use the locking-pins on each jack-stand, and for added safety, put each wheel you take off (if you take any off) under the car along the sills, just in case one or more of the jack-stands fail.

 

Thank you! Yes...did get chocks!

 

Make sure you use a pinch block pad when you jack up the car, something like this:

 

On a Gen 3 , we have one place in the rear and in the front to use a floor jack on to lift the car. I always use a rubber pad that is made for the floor jack. Why? 1 will not scratch the car. 2 less likely to slip. I never put jack stands on the pinch weld they are not designed for that and will crush the car body at some point. They make rubber pads for jack stands too.

 

Pin type for me. Definitely get the pucks to fit over pinch welds otherwise you'll wreck them.

 

Where do you lift it from that enables you to get the jack stand under the pinch weld?

 

See here...

https://www.crvownersclub.com/threads/centreline-jacking-points-pad-attachment-for-trolley-jack-dished-saddle.235241/

 

Yup, there's an arrow that points at the exact spot up front you're supposed to lift from. Use a floorjack and ideally a jackpad (to prevent marring) as well. DO NOT USE a scissor jack! Just had to throw it out there as I've seen all sorts of crazy ideas to save a buck. Your life is worth way more than $100-$200 for a decent floor jack.

For the rear, I jack up on the rear crossmember.

 

I play hockey so fortunately...my garage is littered with pucks

 

Make sure when lifting with a floor jack the floor jack has the ability to roll forwards or backwards [depending on lifting or lowering]. I was lifting my sisters Civic on my cracked asphalt driveway. Floor jack wheels got stuck in a Crack. As I continued to lift the front of the car the jack pad continued to pull forward towards me and off the lift point. The vehicle slipped off the jack pad. Vehicle fell down off the jack pad and the inner cross member for the radiator was severly bent by the jack pad. Fixed it, but that's not the point. Always make sure your jack pad stays centered on your lift point and in order for that to happen the jack needs to be able to roll forwards and backwards.

 

Whether on jack stand or a lift, must always consider the work you are doing. When applying torque on a car, the force applied and the direction might upset the jack stand or position on the lift. Just need to be aware of this. Usually this isn't a problem.

3 ton jack stand are usually good enough for an SUV the size of the CRV. If something like the Toyota Highlander then might consider something bigger. Remember safety first.

 

Will agree with all of the above, especially buying the best possible equipment. Gravity always wins. Your vehicle will fall @ the rate of 32Ft/sec/sec. Your vehicle is at most 2 ft above the ground. If your jack stands fail, you'll never get out from under. At most, you'll have enough time to blink your eyes.

Will only add that, once the vehicle is on all the necessary jack stands, stand near the front/rear fender of whichever end has the jack stands. Give the vehicle a determined push, enough to see the vehicle shake. If your set-up can handle that force, it should be able to handle whatever force you'll apply from underneath using your tools.

 

Really diggin' the education! Thanks so much.
You Tube also has some really good stuff and some channels are downright priceless as resources. I don't think I could even attempt any of this without those videos and multiple sources are always best. Of course, like any I-net search...there are some folks out there who let's say, have a "different" way of doing things, If it works for them...okay