WIll you lose on a 1 year old car, depreciation value. I gues sif the deal is right, the Insureance is less, and 3/36 warranty starts the date o Purchase , all you. you kind of know your answer, but looking for online opinions. mine won't make a difference but its not my $$$$$ it's yours, research like you're doing and wish the best. for you.

 

If it was a short term 5-6 years, the 2020 would be the better deal.

At 8-10 years, the 2019 is probably the better deal as the depreciation gets closer and closer as it ages.

If it were me, I'd buy the 2020 in the hope that it has more part and software updates.

But Start-Stop is a no go for some people so the 2020 is not even an option for them.

 

Thanks for the replies. My wife has a 2019 Passport EX-L AWD and it has that start/stop on it. Kinda annoying, but I get the goal of fuel savings. When I drive it (rarely) I just press the button to disable it.

 

Changes for 2020 are minor. You already know about the stop-start.

2020 EX & EX-L have HD radio. And the center console has minor changes -- relocated USB ports and 12V outlet, charging pad (Touring), and a nifty new shelf in the center console. (Jump ahead to 5:40 in the video below.)

But that's not enough for me to prefer the 2020 -- especially since last week I was able to get a deal on a 2019 EX... $3800 off sticker and $9500 trade-in for my low-mile 2011 AWD SE.

 

I've got a '19 EX and it's been wonderful. I look at it like this. Both are brand new cars. Both will have the same factory warranty. Which one is going to be less expensive to purchase? I have to think that the dealerships are dying to unload any remaining '19s. Heck, I bet you can haggle down an even better deal on a '19 if you work at it.

 

My vote would be for the '19.

 

I had a similar choice between the ‘19 and ‘20. It was my wife’s pick and she liked the ‘20. It was mainly the front new design that caught her eye. She did all the research and was hesitant about the ‘19 and whether the OD was really fixed in that model year. Too early to tell if the OD issue pops up in the ‘20.

For some reason the salesperson was really pushing the ‘20 and the deference between the two was only $1500, after a lot of tactical negotiations. I did most of the negotiating online, but continued at the dealership, which I do not mind, Plus, they matched another Honda dealership’s online price for the extended warranty. When this was not quite enough, they added another $200 to my trade in value.. My only guess is they did not have the color my wife wanted in the ‘19 but did have it in the ‘20 and they really, really needed the sale.

I can tell you this, the finance guy was not happy with me. He tried every tactic for add ons and the battle over the extended warranty really got him pissed. Plus, he gave me the first contact to sign that had the final car price $3,000 over the agreed upon price for the car. I guess he thought I would not see the difference buried in the contact. Re redid and again wanted me to sign. This time he was only off by $1200. Again he redid the paperwork after II mentioned to him what the correct price should be. Well, the third time was a charm, the price was now right. Pricing paperwork mistake or intentional? I will let you decide.

Bought the ‘20 with 6 miles on it.

 

I can tell you this, the finance guy was not happy with me. He tried every tactic for add ons and the battle over the extended warranty really got him pissed. Plus, he gave me the first contact to sign that had the final car price $3,000 over the agreed upon price for the car. I guess he thought I would not see the difference buried in the contact. Re redid and again wanted me to sign. This time he was only off by $1200. Again he redid the paperwork after II mentioned to him what the correct price should be. Well, the third time was a charm, the price was now right. Pricing paperwork mistake or intentional? I will let you decide.

In my view, the "Finance Person" is the weak link in the buying experience at Honda Dealers (Probably true for most brands to be honest), even at great dealers like the one I purchase my Hondas from. The price of the vehicle is all determined (no haggling, just best bottom line price right up front) with the sales guy. Same for trade-in too. Then it is paperwork time... and first the Finance guy gets a little bent because I am paying cash (no finance commission for him). Then tries to up-sell anything and everything in his purview. Then gets something on the actual contract not quite correct, requiring a reprint. Then the Finance Guy has to wait while my wife (with an engineering degree, an MBA, and a career track in corporate Finance as well) combs carefully and meticulously through each line item on the contract (much to my amusement). Finally.. we all agree and sign and write a check to pay.

Totally opposite experience from working with the sales staff.. where everything is customer satisfaction focused, and both sales person and buyer together walk through the sales order CRM workflow on their computer screen. I think I know their workflow in their CRM system almost as well as they do now.. LOL.

 

There is a reason when you say the F&I guy it sounds like the F***ing I guy . Agreed it is the absolutely worst part of the entire buying process. These people make salespeople look like saints.

 

I would not hesitate to recommend going with the 2020. More chance that any bugs are worked out as far as I am concerned and I do like the styling tweaks. Start/stop is not an issue, I just turn it off when I start the car or after the first stop if I forget. I got a good deal on mine matching Canadian invoice price as supplied by Carcost Canada, shopped 3 dealers and had 3 full written quotes in hand before deciding; I had made it clear in advance to the salesperson that I would not be purchasing any extras at all from the business manager and paying cash. Sat with the business manager and told him I would sit for a couple minutes, he asked the standard questions and I was done. Am sure the sales rep had asked him to make it quick and easy too.

 

My 2018 hasn't had any problems. Still, considering the problem others have had with 2017 - 2019, I'd go with the 2020. Applicable firmware updates from other years would have been done.

 

Don't do it! GO TOYOTA!

 

Highlander? Because Rav4, lol.

 

All makes have their issues. I did not enjoy driving the regular Rav4 at all. The hybrid does drive well but I felt the complexity of a hybrid system would require dealership visits for any sort of repair. Not for me but certainly a popular vehicle.

 

Are you aware of the engine oil dilution defect with these CR-Vs, Honda still has not got a fix for it. I have a CR-V and love it but very disappointed with the engine filling full of gasoline.

 

Is this still an issue on the 2020 version? Or were changes made?
A year or so ago when I took my ‘17 to the dealer they did some “fix”. I honestly can’t tell if mine ever had the issue or not though.

 

mynoise is strictly only when I apply the brakes at slow speed. Does anyone else have this issue I have a 2019 EXL

 

I read a news article on my phone yesterday that says that there is an over abundant supply of unsold 2019 SUVs on the dealer lots. This is the time to make an incredible score on a 2019 model.

 

I'm seeing a fair amount of '19 inventory when searching as well. The extra $500 off says good until 3/2, but I wonder if it could go to $1000 off after that during March. No way they want '19s on the lots come April, right?

 

Thanks for all of your comments. In the end, I went with the 2020. Partly because I got what I thought was a good price on it and the difference between the '20 and '19 ($1879) wasn't as vast as originally thought. And I was able to get my primary color choice (MSM/Black) on the '20. But if the difference would up being much more like $2500 between the two and I could get that color in the '19, I would have gone that route.