I use wix filters. I get them at Oreilly’s.

 

And Wix supplies NAPA so those are good too. I put NAPA Gold in all my cars.

BTW, your oil change regimen sounds a little OCD, but I do love buying used cars from folks like you.

 

I use Fram Endurance, it been tested independently and has one of the lowest pressure drops and vastly better filtration than other filter currently on the market.
The current the Honda filter is actually a repackaged Fram Tough Guard. The previous filter was made by Filtech which is now owned by Fram. Both are good filters but are paper media (old school) and have a higher pressure drop (more restrictive) with a lower filtration efficiency. But they are cheaper.

 

I use Fram Endurance, it been tested independently and has one of the lowest pressure drops and vastly better filtration than other filter currently on the market.
The current the Honda filter is actually a repackaged Fram Tough Guard. The previous filter was made by Fltech which is now owned by Fram. Both are good filters but are paper media (old school) and have a higher pressure drop (more restrictive) with a lower filtration efficiency. But they are cheaper.

Thanks for the recommendation.

 

What are the opinions on the factory Honda filters? I've always used factory filters on our Toyota's, and Delco (pre E-core) filters on my GMC pickup without an issue. I started to do some research on Bob is the Oil Guy, but my head started to spin. lol

 

I've been using Denso. Honda filters are $8 from College Hills

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FRAM XG7317 Ultra Synthetic (Endurance?) are under $8 from Rockauto

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Interesting discussion XG7317

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/og-wire-backed-fram-ultra-xg7317-73-000-miles.386245/

 

Welcome to the CRVOC forum. Many fine folks here from around the globe.

Click on your avatar in the upper right hand corner, —> Account Settings, —> Vehicle Details. Complete for your vehicle, then hit Save. In this manner, that vital piece of information automatically appears whenever you post.

With 6 generations of the V on the road today, knowing the year & trim level of the vehicle in question helps those asking & those willing to respond.

 

Under $10:
ChampXL
Carquest Premium
Microgard Select

then Fram Endurance ($13) if you want a little fancier/better

 

Honda filters are fine and whatever the pressure drop, Honda thinks it’s fine. And as to efficiency, how much metal, etc do we think Honda engines shed? Plus, with a Honda end cap wrench they are easy on, easy off.

 

I've used the Fram XG7317 on my 1.5T Civic for 300K miles, no problems and still going. Back when I first needed to change the oil in it, I did some research and this was a good contender for a quality filter. Is it still a good one, I think so but I read that it has changed some and factory locations have changed.

 

Did you look up on Honda's own Parts eStore with the VIN number? Only the first part number showed up when I searched just on 2025 EX. That part description has (FRAM) in it. I always used Honda filters and would recommend those. Honda has maintenance reminders that pop up based on their algorithm. I follow it, except for a few things that are based on elapsed time. If you decide to go with your own schedule, the Maintenance Minder needs to be reset when it pops a message. Besides oil change, the message will have codes for other maintenance items as well.

 

Instead of Mobil 1, a lot of people are switching to "Valvoline Restore and Protect" for the new chemistry breakthrough that cleans off and keeps the hard-carbon off the rings. It is a new thing other oils do not have. That's what I'm switching to.

As for filters, MicroGard Select is considered to have the best quality construction, although the Honda OEM one, Fram Ultra, and Purolator Boss are all good. I've been using a Europe-only oil filter, had it shipped over to me in the U.S., the Purflux (French brand) oil filter that has a unique feature of about 50% more filter media inside. I don't recommend it because it is slightly expensive, and I had to get it off Amazon-Europe, too much trouble really for most folks.

About changing it out at 2,500 miles initiially, that is smart, though of course not absolutely necessary. A lot of break-in metal dust in there initially, good to get it out.
5,000 mile oil change intervals is pretty good, but 8,000 is as far as I would go on my Hybrid CR-V.

 

What are the opinions of the Honda brand oil?

 

From what I've seen (VOA, spectral additive package analysis), Honda-branded oil is a very normal average API SP level oil, which is fine, nothing special, not bad. Probably from Idemitsu, maybe Eneos.
If Honda-brand is special, I've never heard of anybody detecting that or any claims about it, and don't see it myself from the clues.

 

From what I've seen (VOA, spectral additive package analysis), Honda-branded oil is a very normal average API SP level oil, which is fine, nothing special, not bad. Probably from Idemitsu, maybe Eneos.
If Honda-brand is special, I've never heard of anybody detecting that or any claims about it, and don't see it myself from the clues.

What are the opinions of the Honda brand oil?

Honda oil is currently Phillips 66 brand. It’s mainstream mid-level run of the mill SP/D1G3 oil. Absolutely nothing special or interesting about it but it would do just fine for 5k OCIs.

 

I see it now, not only was the Phillips66 thing announced a long time ago, the BOTTLES even match (note the "triple Nike swoosh" design):

 

I wanted to add a Fumoto valve to this vehicle as I have them on 2 other vehicles. When I look up the part # the description says I may need an extension if there is a recess where the drain bolt is. Does anyone know if this is needed on a 2025 1.5?

 

I have used Fumoto valves for many years. I would get the nipple extension because you can attach a 3/8" hose to it. That allows the oil to drain into whatever catch can you use. I keep several 5qt jugs after oil changes so that when it comes time to do an oil change, all I have to do is direct the tubing into one of the empty jugs, flip the switch, let it drain, close the switch, remove the tubing, & screw the cap back onto the jug. Neat & clean.

To answer a potential question, no the nipple does not extend into rock-hitting territory. Unless you do extreme rock-crawling to the extent you tear off the aluminum shield, you have no problems with the nipple extension hitting anything.

 

I'm familiar with the nipple as my other vehicles have them. My question is in reference to the threaded end that goes into the oil pan. Does it require a threaded extension to allow for clearance to thread in the valve where the drain plug goes. I haven't looked at the oil pan yet as this would be for the first oil change when needed. Fumoto info says a extension may be required depending on the style of oil pan.

 

In our vehicles [1996 Accord, 2008 CRV, 2019 Accord], never had the extension. Fumoto worked just fine. In our 2018 CRV, have Stahlbus valve. Take vehicle in to dealership with Stahlbus kit, own oil & filter. They do all the work, no problems with them.

 

Welcome! I’d like to hear that Toyota story sometime! I was back and forth before buying a ‘24 ST hybrid CR-V.

Two things:
1. If you live near multiple Honda dealers, ask if you can get more frequent oil changes at no charge with the Honda Service Pass. Not all dealers are forcing owners to wait for the MM to come on. My service advisor covered mine and said I could come back every 6 months.
2. My Honda dealer’s parts department sells a genuine filter and O-ring for $9.99 (I did my first oil change myself at 1,300 miles before learning my dealer would’ve covered it). Try that, too! College Hills Honda also may be a good option!

 

I really don't think the filter brand matters all that much. Regular maintenance with a decent quality motor oil (not necessarily Honda, which isn't actually 'Honda' oil) is the key. I have a couple million miles driven on Hondas since 1986 , never an engine issue. I do my own oil changes, based on the MM usually - which does approach 10k miles before a change at times.....

 

I agree. "Routine" maintenance will get a lot more hours out of equipment than buying "The Brand". I just hauled home a 2006 CRV that I paid salvage price for. Highly educated owners that did zero maintenance and when the "Check Engine" light came on they parked it because someone told them it needed the engine replaced. Routine maintenance in my shop and it purrs like a kitten..... Now to "check the boxes" on all the other things that need servicing.
Hobo

 

Being of a like mind, I use these items:

1. Oil - AMS Signature oil. Tested and is superior to Mobile 1 and Castrol.
2. Oil Filter - Best on the market is WIX 57356XP

I do the same with 5K or 6K or if the oil minder gets to 10%. My oil never gets dirty. I have a 2020 CRV Hybrid touring, with 23K miles.

 

Don't think so, but it probably has a cover under engine, need clearance.

 

I started using Castrol about 50 years ago. I began using their synthetic to extend the oil change intervals about 20 years ago. I use the Castrol extended performance to go a bit farther (7K to 8K) between changes. A few years ago I started using Fram Ultra Synthetic filters. Also have been a Honda guy since 1996. No major engine issues using these products. I also do most of my own maintenance and repairs.

 

You should be good. I have used Fram for years and no problems. However, I change the oil in my 2010 CRV every five thousand.

 

I use Mobil1 oil & filters in both the CR V & Corvette. Never had a problem.

 

I’m a Honda OEM filter kind of guy, I still think it’s stupid they keep changing them thus making me have to get a new oil filter cup each time they do🤦🏼‍♂️🤦🏼‍♂️ ANYWAY, it’s getting slightly easier to get the OEM filters at the same prices as most shelf brands mentioned already.
oil, well I’ve been using Mobil1 lately for awhile in mine and the wife’s Toyota RAV4, she also gets an OEM filter

 

I just cut open a Honda OEM

oil filter. That's Whip City Wrencher's video that matches what I just saw. Pictures would be redundant to that.
Honda OEM oil filters look very clean inside and well made, and they have passed Honda's standards and look good to me too.
Only thing I don't like about it, besides the fact that it does not have nearly as much media inside as a Purflux LS350, is that the Honda OEM only has 2 threads to hold on to your engine block.

I also ran a PIAA Z8-M (M for a magnet inside) oil filter and cut it open just now, probably the best constructed oil filter for Hondas on the planet. Matches this presentation (not my cut, but what I saw matches it) https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/piaa-twin-power-magnet-oil-filter-cut-open.368230/
Notice it has 2 filters inside, one for super small particles, and one for regular size particles that a normal filter would catch. Could be the best around, certainly the most expensive, for build quality and getting out the smallest tiniest junk.

Right now I have a Purflux LS350 oil filter on it, which actually has around 50% more filter media area than anything else on the market. MIne is still in service, I'll cut it open later, but here is one cut open:

Interestingly, Honda blue-can OEM filters in Europe are Purflux with the unique zig-zag extra media.

 

Jaguar and a few other cars have a magnet in the sump. Im just wondering if a magnet can be fitted to the inside of the filter. That will perhaps give you an indication of the interior of the motor without removing the pan/sump......just a thought!

 

This one should work fine. If in doubt, order both the F106 N & the F106S. Test fit both when doing you oil change, replacing the bottom shield each time. If both fit with the bottom shield on, i.e. no rubbing or contact with the shield, keep the long nipple one as it will be easier to place the drain tube.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

 

F106SX on all our CRV, Civic, Accord, Passport and Ridgeline models