Recently purchased a used 2004 CRV with about 80k miles. This is my third Honda but first CRV. In doing my due diligence research about what maintenance to tackle I have come across the issue known as "Black Death" in regards to the A/C compressor. It is my understanding that this could be a potential problem for early 2004 models and that the issue was noticed and fixed for later 2004 models. Based on my VIN number my CRV had a delivery date of 12/1/2003. I believe this would put me in the window of concern. I have access to the CarFax but there is no conclusive evidence that the compressor was replaced. Based on the records history, this car was used mainly from 2004 to 2007 (50k miles) and then very sparingly from 2007-2025 (30k miles). Is the general consensus I should be worried and proactive in preventing catastrophic failure (maybe by installing a deslugger) or that this potential problem is overblown and I should just run the A/C without worry? Any guidance from longtime owners is appreciated.
cheftimsmith
If you don't know when it was last serviced, recommend having a professional proactively service the ac system every four years or so.
In short
1. evacuate the refrigerant.
2. Hold vacuum for a certain period to make sure there are no leaks in the system.
3. Refill refrigerant to recommended level using proper gauges and hoses.
Whatever you do, don't use those "one hose" a/c refill cans sold at the auto supply. It's easy to do more damage than good. Some "pros"/mechanics don't do the procedure properly, so find an ac tech if possible. The AC system will still cool down the vehicle if it is low on refrigerant, but this can lead to premature wear.
In short
1. evacuate the refrigerant.
2. Hold vacuum for a certain period to make sure there are no leaks in the system.
3. Refill refrigerant to recommended level using proper gauges and hoses.
Whatever you do, don't use those "one hose" a/c refill cans sold at the auto supply. It's easy to do more damage than good. Some "pros"/mechanics don't do the procedure properly, so find an ac tech if possible. The AC system will still cool down the vehicle if it is low on refrigerant, but this can lead to premature wear.
I'm on my 4th AC compressor but love the Gen 2 (table, full size spare) too much to give it up.
1. Factory AC System - 02/2004 to 09/2012, 0 to 52K miles
Failed due to black death, full system replacement at independent Honda mechanic with aftermarket kit. Only the AC evaporator was OEM.
2. Mechanic Sourced Kit - 09/2012 to 09/2022, 52K to 156K miles
AC compressor only worked at highway speeds, but 10 year/100K miles of life on aftermarket parts isn't too bad. Different independent Honda mechanic (moved to different state) would only install OEM compressor, so I had them do labor only no warranty install of parts that I got online (Nissens compressor, Koyorad condenser, Four Seasons suction+discharge lines).
3. Nissens AC Compressor - 09/2022 to 08/2024, 156K to 184K miles
This compressor was noisy from the start. Failed during a road trip, maybe the clutch pulley? Was able to drive but the tensioner was knocking like crazy. Swapped in a bypass belt and drove without AC till I got it replaced last month (Mahle compressor, Denso condenser, Four Seasons discharge line)
4. Mahle AC Compressor - 03/2025 to ?, 195K to ? miles
I hope this one lasts longer, but the relief valve spewing PAG oil was not an auspicious start ... Still blows cold though, so fingers crossed.
1. Factory AC System - 02/2004 to 09/2012, 0 to 52K miles
Failed due to black death, full system replacement at independent Honda mechanic with aftermarket kit. Only the AC evaporator was OEM.
2. Mechanic Sourced Kit - 09/2012 to 09/2022, 52K to 156K miles
AC compressor only worked at highway speeds, but 10 year/100K miles of life on aftermarket parts isn't too bad. Different independent Honda mechanic (moved to different state) would only install OEM compressor, so I had them do labor only no warranty install of parts that I got online (Nissens compressor, Koyorad condenser, Four Seasons suction+discharge lines).
3. Nissens AC Compressor - 09/2022 to 08/2024, 156K to 184K miles
This compressor was noisy from the start. Failed during a road trip, maybe the clutch pulley? Was able to drive but the tensioner was knocking like crazy. Swapped in a bypass belt and drove without AC till I got it replaced last month (Mahle compressor, Denso condenser, Four Seasons discharge line)
4. Mahle AC Compressor - 03/2025 to ?, 195K to ? miles
I hope this one lasts longer, but the relief valve spewing PAG oil was not an auspicious start ... Still blows cold though, so fingers crossed.
I don't have any experience with a deslugger, but perhaps sharing my experience with my '05 AC system replacement would be helpful.
When I pulled my engine I replaced the AC (original, 140k miles on it), as it was VERY noisy (making a loud clunky/rattling sound ONLY when the compressor was engaged). I replaced all my lines, my condenser, and of course the compressor. The evaporator was the only thing that was stock. I cleaned out the evaporator with an AC cleaning product that you blow through the lines with an air compressor and a special attachment (all found on Amazon). It's essentially rubbing alcohol. If you do this, don't get the thick cleaning stuff, get the thinner stuff. Thankfully I didn't see much gunk from the evaporator, instead mostly just old PAG oil with neon coloring (though there was a tiny bit of debris).
Anyway, refilled lines, condenser, and compressor with the appropriate amount of PAG oil and then charged the system myself. It's working great, but it's been less than a year. I bought the four seasons brand stuff from RockAuto for both the compressor and lines, and I used a Denso condenser.
Anyway, after going through all of that I think it would be worth, in your case, to replace the condenser and the AC compressor. The older AC failures were primarily due to the compressor itself. So replacing that would be a good idea for the peace of mind. If you're replacing the compressor, you may as well also get a new condenser, as it comes with a new dryer and some other plumbing that is somewhat delicate. Flush the system with the same product I used, add the required amount of PAG oil to the system (the new compressor should already have some in there, but you need to replace the oil that was in the lines, condenser, and evaporator).
Doing this should give you plenty of life in your AC system. And, you shouldn't need any additions like a deslugger incorporated into the system.
The worry for keeping your old compressor is that if it nukes itself, you might end up with a damaged evaporator. Replacing an evaporator is a HUGE PITA. I'd try to avoid that, if possible. By replacing the compressor with something new will have eliminated the design flaw of the original compressor, thus no need for a deslugger.
When I pulled my engine I replaced the AC (original, 140k miles on it), as it was VERY noisy (making a loud clunky/rattling sound ONLY when the compressor was engaged). I replaced all my lines, my condenser, and of course the compressor. The evaporator was the only thing that was stock. I cleaned out the evaporator with an AC cleaning product that you blow through the lines with an air compressor and a special attachment (all found on Amazon). It's essentially rubbing alcohol. If you do this, don't get the thick cleaning stuff, get the thinner stuff. Thankfully I didn't see much gunk from the evaporator, instead mostly just old PAG oil with neon coloring (though there was a tiny bit of debris).
Anyway, refilled lines, condenser, and compressor with the appropriate amount of PAG oil and then charged the system myself. It's working great, but it's been less than a year. I bought the four seasons brand stuff from RockAuto for both the compressor and lines, and I used a Denso condenser.
Anyway, after going through all of that I think it would be worth, in your case, to replace the condenser and the AC compressor. The older AC failures were primarily due to the compressor itself. So replacing that would be a good idea for the peace of mind. If you're replacing the compressor, you may as well also get a new condenser, as it comes with a new dryer and some other plumbing that is somewhat delicate. Flush the system with the same product I used, add the required amount of PAG oil to the system (the new compressor should already have some in there, but you need to replace the oil that was in the lines, condenser, and evaporator).
Doing this should give you plenty of life in your AC system. And, you shouldn't need any additions like a deslugger incorporated into the system.
The worry for keeping your old compressor is that if it nukes itself, you might end up with a damaged evaporator. Replacing an evaporator is a HUGE PITA. I'd try to avoid that, if possible. By replacing the compressor with something new will have eliminated the design flaw of the original compressor, thus no need for a deslugger.
I’m in the process of redoing my system right now. Its making a little noise and the time to change it for me is right now. The summers here in Phoenix are brutal and I’m not going a week without AC to wait on parts in the middle of summer. I’m replacing my entire system except for the hard lines, which I’m flushing. I did this on an old toyota truck and after the work was done it had the best AC of any vehicle I’ve ever been in. i’ve already replaced the compressor and condenser as well as the hoses. I’m doing the evaporator and expansion valve today and hopefully recharging the system.
Its worth noting that there are two different compressor designs: a scroll compressor manufactured by Keihin, and a piston compressor made by Denso. Neither seems to be manufactured by the original companies anymore but aftermarket versions of both are widely available. Theres conflicting information online, but the loose consensus seems to be that the Keihin scroll compressor was the factory unit and the Denso model is an upgraded option that was brought to market to solve a lot of the problems with the scroll compressor. I can tell you that they are definitely physically interchangeable. The hose connections are identical, the mounting points are identical and use the same hardware, the pulley is the same diameter and sits correctly aligned with the belt, the wire connector is the same. The case of the denso looks a little different and the wiring looks simpler but the swap is easy. I’ll let you know if it doesnt work but there are plenty of people who have gone to the denso unit and it worked fine for them. See the thread below
https://www.crvownersclub.com/threa...ich-compressor.235217/?post_id=1805299&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1805299
Its worth noting that there are two different compressor designs: a scroll compressor manufactured by Keihin, and a piston compressor made by Denso. Neither seems to be manufactured by the original companies anymore but aftermarket versions of both are widely available. Theres conflicting information online, but the loose consensus seems to be that the Keihin scroll compressor was the factory unit and the Denso model is an upgraded option that was brought to market to solve a lot of the problems with the scroll compressor. I can tell you that they are definitely physically interchangeable. The hose connections are identical, the mounting points are identical and use the same hardware, the pulley is the same diameter and sits correctly aligned with the belt, the wire connector is the same. The case of the denso looks a little different and the wiring looks simpler but the swap is easy. I’ll let you know if it doesnt work but there are plenty of people who have gone to the denso unit and it worked fine for them. See the thread below
https://www.crvownersclub.com/threa...ich-compressor.235217/?post_id=1805299&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1805299
You can use a laser thermometer and point at the compressors inlet/suction temps. It should be cold.
Or chek inlet and outlet temps of both evaporator and condenser units.
Using those # s you may read a bit about supercool and super heat. That will give you an idea of what's going on.
Same thing with an AC manifold gauge set, read the gauges to identify any anomalies.
Don't confuse noises from the clutch and it's bearing or other parts that may sound chattery with a bad compressor,
Gl
Or chek inlet and outlet temps of both evaporator and condenser units.
Using those # s you may read a bit about supercool and super heat. That will give you an idea of what's going on.
Same thing with an AC manifold gauge set, read the gauges to identify any anomalies.
Don't confuse noises from the clutch and it's bearing or other parts that may sound chattery with a bad compressor,
Gl
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