If working before it went into shock shop then they must have disturbed something. If they dont fix then 1st step is to check the fuse. You'll need a circuit diagram to confirm which fuse for your model is correct. In UK model its F7 in engine fuse box (petrol) - which also feeds horn. If fuse is OK then check that there is 12V going to it.

 

If the horn and the brake lights are on the same fuse then the horn working must mean the fuse is ok?
This leaves the switch at the brake pedal and the relays as a possible suspect of the fault?

 

If wired the same as UK version then yes. Agree check the switch to see if 12V to and from. If there is but still no stop lights then move on to relay.

 

thinking the brake light switch that is down near the brake pedal itself. usually a plunger type switch. when you push on the pedal, the plunger is activated which completes the brake light switch circuit and thus, activates the lights themselves. these do go bad. not often, but they do.

here's a youtube video about changing it. might be of help to you.

2004 Honda Civic Brake Light Switch Replacement, Stop Light Fuse - Bing video

 

So after a lot of trial and errow with a check light -- Turns out all the bulbs just fused at the same time -- I honestly discounted this intially but eventually checked when I ran out of oher options (I mean -- whats the chances all the bulbs -- including the high level light would burn all out together ?) But after having replaced eveything -- she seems fine (Although there must be an underlying issue(s) that caused this ?)

Anyhow -- thank you for all the input -- it helped me with tremendously on where to look . I hope others see this post if they have the issue and realise that the improbable is also distinctly possible

So after a lot of trial and errow with a check light -- Turns out all the bulbs just fused at the same time -- I honestly discounted this intially but eventually checked when I ran out of oher options (I mean -- whats the chances all the bulbs -- including the high level light would burn all out together ?) But after having replaced eveything -- she seems fine (Although there must be an underlying issue(s) that caused this ?)

Anyhow -- thank you for all the input -- it helped me with tremendously on where to look . I hope others see this post if they have the issue and realise that the improbable is also distinctly possible

And It seems I was not using the tester correctly when I checked the power to the bulbs -- But after a lot of swearing --I eventually "educuated myself with that too

 

I expect one popped & took the others out...

 

Im not techically minded -- so its possible there was a power surge from one bulb dying, and after the current running through the fuse ? (Which obviously did not blow) -- If so, that must be a design error of sorts -- the chance that one bulb "pops" and it blows the other two ?

 

Bought an extra bulb for each brakelight connector now -- but would changing bulbs to an LED variery mitigate the risk of this recoccuring ? I dont REALLY want brighter rear bulbs that blind people -- Like some (mostly) local BMW drivers who put on their rear "fog lights" ( I swear they just flick them on to show off its equipped-- we last had fog in 1972) and subseqently blind you when its moderately overcast

 

LED bulbs has different voltage rating so unless it matches the regular bulb they don't work as direct replacement or it has built in hardware to work as brake light then that would help it.

 

Undrerstood tx -- went regular bulbs for now since I urgently needed rear lights -- But will spend my time finding an LED replacement -- wll advise with details when I find them

 

Not to say anyone does this.
But, often, one does not notice the brake light bulb going out on one.
Then later another bulb goes out. Still, one does not notice.
Then when one does see it, two or more bulbs are out.
What are the chances that the two or more bulbs burn out nearly the same time?
Pretty good considering they were put into service at the same time and have similar life time or service time.

 

You make a good point -- But in this case I suspect an electrical "event" as the car being a new purchase, I checked the brake lights the evening before I took her to the shop for struts / Shocks -- simply because she was new "toy" lol Immediately after the install - I noted zero break lights as they reversed the car out the shop (not even the top brake light) -- They claimed total innocence (and I believed them since how would a shock change cause tail light failure on all three ?) Anyhow -- as documented in the threads -- It was in fact all 3 bulbs that popped -- Could be a serious coincidence (possible) -- But my gut says one bulb blew and it whacked the remaining two (post the 10A fuse) -- which was fine . A friend with a Gen 1 CRV said the same thing happened to him (all three bulbs at once ) -- and that could be a timing issue I suppose ? Anyhow -- it was his expereince that got me checking all the bulbs . Im am def no mechanic and certainly not an auto elec -- But since the 3 tail lights run off one fuse -- Is there not logic that if one bulb blows -- the current to the remaining two increases -- and blows them ? This is all after the current has run through the 10 A fuse remember