Compare the old belt to the new belt. Worst case scenario you buy one from honda. If none of them fit you are routing the belt the wrong way

 

Hi. I did compare them. The belt was routed correctly. I forgot to mention that I re-checked reviews on the first belt after realizing it was too short and others with the same year as me said the same thing happened when they tried to install.

They said that the belt you want is Bando 7PK1755 which is the correct length. Problem is the belt is hard to find locally. It's inexpensive on amazon but soonest I can get it is August 15th via Amazon Prime. I feel like I'm going to do damage before then if I continue to use the current belt. If the tensioner itself is not the cause of the sound then the belt being too loose is causing the tensioner to make this sound. Can't be good.

 

Can someone who actually has the same vehicle respond please? Thank you

 

Ours is an '09 but should be the same?
This is my post from 2023: https://www.crvownersclub.com/threads/serpentine-belt-problem.236690/ it still has the AC-Delco belt that has caused no problems.

 

Hey Wes. Thanks for the response. Glad to see I'm not the only one who experienced this, unfortunate as it may be. I ordered the Bando 7PK1755 from Amazon and the shipping changed to Tuesday fortunately. So I hope by then I will get it installed easy enough without any other fitment issues. If the rattle continues, then I can attempt the tensioner replacement which looks straightforward enough. Strangely the tensioner and belt for that matter were dead silent prior to replacement.

 

glad this came up i was going to buy a BANDO 7PK1745 from rock auto as that what their application guide says

 

Getting the belt on is MUCH harder than on most cars. You need a super long wrench to move the tensior all the way.

Read what other people have done...

https://www.crvownersclub.com/threads/belt-tensioner-wrench-what-have-you-used.190607/

I HATE doing it so much, I am considering the special belt tool. Buying the tool is still cheaper than hiring someone

 

I just use a 3/8 breaker bar with a 14 mm socket... and a 3' piece of pipe as a cheater bar. No need for a special tool.... thought I would have no problem buying a "belt tool" for $20 on amazon. It is a strong tensioner... i need a 3' of leverage to make it work.

 

Yeah, pretty crazy you need all that for a belt tensioner.

 

I have the special belt tensioner tool from Harbor Freight. The non-ratcheting one that is extra long. I used a 14mm socket from the top and the crows foot when attempting from the bottom. I removed the plastic radiator support cover when trying from the top to allow for extra movement of the tensioner. None of that was enough to allow the belt to go on. And I was yanking with all my might.

 

Or get a belt that is a bit longer... not much else is workable

 

well, it is a PITA, but remove the motor mount (put a jack under the oil pan). That will allow plenty of room.

 

This is a funny deal. At the first sign of trouble, I'd be going to the dealer and getting the proper OEM belt. With all the time spent a more costly belt is cheap.

 

The replacement belt that Amazon sent is different than the packaging that it's in and may be used. Ordered a Bando belt, but they sent a Gates. The length is almost correct. One I ordered was 1755mm. One I got is 1753. At this point I will probably just install this one if I can get it to fit correctly. I want to be done with this whole fiasco. Next time it's OEM for sure.

 

Amazon still is a weird place to get auto parts, I don't understand how a company of that size and power cannot get auto parts right. I been sent the wrong oil filter, sold and shipped directly from Amazon, at least that is what the website said, I have heard that the "sold and shipped directly from Amazon" statement may not always be true.

Also the new belt may be correct but because it is new, it is just a micro bit smaller than the old belt, since the old belt is worn it may be a bit longer when stressed.

Remove the plastic guard that is on the front of the car, it will give you another inch to pull on the tensioner.

I wouldn't use this bad experience to force myself to buy only OEM parts. Things like serpentine belt don't need to be OEM. Same goes with brake pads, brake rotors, shocks, etc. Maybe just avoid Amazon. Rockauto is the best place because all they do is sell auto parts. They been doing it forever.

 

I used the Bando 7PK1745 belt bought from Amazon on my 2011 CRV. It is the hardest serpentine belt replacement I've done. I considered getting a larger belt but eventually used two combination wrenches hooked together and was able to pull the tensioner enough that the belt slipped on easily.​

 

The belt tensioner was bad. I couldn't tell until I unbolted the power steering pump and moved it out of the way because access was so limited. After removing I could easily spin the tensioner pulley and I heard the same rattle/clatter sound I heard when car was running. I ran into a few snags as expected but got through them with help from some how to vids. The belt installation was a pita of course. I couldn't get enough leverage with my specialized tensioner tool. I was able to use a 14mm ratcheting box wrench on the pulley with a 1/2" ratchet placed into the open end. I reversed the ratchet to allow it to move far forward allowing more leverage than the straight tensioning tool allowed. I pulled it forward and even still it was a bear to get the belt on but somehow it slowly moved on working from back to front. Then it was on and I thought well it must have slipped off of the tensioner or one of the other pulleys like it did almost every time before getting it right. But no, it was fully seated in all of the pulleys. I was elated and reinstalled everything else. Started car and no rattle. All accessories are working. Drove car with a/c on as well. It was silent. Well, now I'm only hearing valve train noise. I guess next on the list is a valve adjustment.

I changed the coolant for the first time too. So got two things done I wanted to do for a while.

Thanks for everyones help. I'm sure all the info will help others in the future too.

 

Congrats! Good for you for sticking with it. Nothing as satisfying as when it all finally comes together.

Nice work on the coolant too. Maybe power steering flush next

 

Yes, I plan to do power steering next.

The brakes are also in need of replacement I think. I checked the pads quickly last night and they're pretty thin. The wheels get covered in brake dust quickly after a wash. As soon as I have some extra money I will tackle front/rear rotors and pads. Any suggestions for brands to go for? Is generic ok?

 

I just use a 3/8 breaker bar with a 14 mm socket... and a 3' piece of pipe as a cheater bar. No need for a special tool.... thought I would have no problem buying a "belt tool" for $20 on amazon. It is a strong tensioner... i need a 3' of leverage to make it work.

You may have to un-do the motor mount and jack up the engine... crazy... I know.

Ah, okay. I see, makes sense.

I personally use a home made tool, a 14mm 60 degree offset wrench welded to a bar I harvested from a broken harbor freight wood clamp. It works decently well. Before making that tool, I used some variant of a double wrench method. I tried a number of commercially made tools, but they either didn’t fit or felt just as janky as double wrenching. I’m always looking for something better, although I have a hard time putting the $ for the Honda tool bc it would be dedicated for only one task.

 

Another happy ending. Thanks for posting back solution!

 

So the Bando 7PK1745 fits fine follow this video and it’s easy. Only piece of advice I’ll add it to remove the front right (passenger) wheel and the access panel to get better access to the pulleys from the bottom had it off and on in 20 minutes

 

So the Bando 7PK1745 fits fine follow this video and it’s easy. Only piece of advice I’ll add it to remove the front right (passenger) wheel and the access panel to get better access to the pulleys from the bottom had it off and on in 20 minutes

If it was so easy I would have done it the first time. I literally did everything you did in the video except I had the proper tensioner tool and the belt wasn't even close to fitting. The belt you show is not the 7PK1745 and that's probably why it fit so easily. Though another member was able to get theirs on so I guess it's possible. Either way, glad you were able to get it on. It's something I hope to not have to do again for a long time.

 

Here’s the one I bought Bando 7PK1745 for sale online | eBay