This is a very helpful post! My ‘08 with 191,xxx miles has to downshift a lot on hills, especially with the AC on. I may give this a try. How do you do the reset/relearn? Some combination of key turns and gas pedal presses? (That’s how Nissan does it)

ETA: I take that back. That combo is for an idle air relearn in the Nissan.


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Fyi it isnt a cheap part. I'm using the Dorman version, see how it does long term because Honda version is expensive as hell (more than spool valve assembly).

Easiest Reset on most, except nissan (which I do via a scan tool, but I'm a tech) is simply pull off one of the battery cables and let sit for a few minutes. And have a Honda dealership number handy if you have the OEM radio/infotainment, will need the code when you hook the battery up.

What this does is drains the entire system of voltage, thus forcing the ECM (engine computer) back to factory default program. The just drive. Computer will learn all the new data from the changes and be able to optimize accordingly.

There is other things that can be done if performance is just kind of lacking at high miles. But all that is perfect on mine. Can eat off my engine lol.

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I’ve done spark plugs and air filter. What else would you recommend? My MPG sucks too.


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Cleaning the intake system out, can if seafoam in the engine oil (put can in, idle for 30 to 60 minutes, shut off and change oil, do not drive with full can in the engine oil), injector cleaner, check the screens on the vtec spool valve assembly, valve lash.

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@Tigris99 Thanks for sharing!

Please sure to post back in 6 months/1 year and tell us how the Dorman part is holding up. Some of their stuff is good, others don't work as well as factory. (This experiences over several car brands, not just Honda.)

 

Ya not a fan of dorman but I wanted to give it a shot for the price. I may get a Honda one if I find a deal and compare at a later time. At least it has a warranty so if it craps out within a year its covered.

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Update after reset and driving.

Now running as it did prior to reset before things went out of whack and caused the CEL to come on. Very nice recovery of power, even in the heat the hills on the highway that would cause it to drop out of overdrive and converter lock it cruises right up at 60-70mph.

Also did some partial and full throttle testing from low speed to 70, much smoother and more responsive

Nice to have my V back the way she's supposed to be.

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And one more update.

Was hot as hell today. After we got back from swimming (took the odyssey) I had to run and get food for my gecko. Being in the city I can use highway and st louis isnt exactly flat.

Perfect final test, run the AC. Was pleasantly shocked that now running the AC isnt a huge deal. I was assuming my AC compressor was about worn out and putting extra load on the engine so I didnt use it except when it's this hot.

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I have a 2003. Can you feel a noticeable difference when vtec switches over? And that happens at about 4500 rpm? So your AC runs better now? Mine had issues but just at idle, excessive vibration. But I'm guessing that isn't a vtec issue.

 

Can always feel the vtec engagement when getting up to highway speeds.

AC itself doesnt work any differently, it's that my engine doesnt notice the load as much. Less noticeable loss of power.

Vibrations at idle are noticeable on any 4cyl engine with the AC on. The older the vehicle the more noticeable as the engine mount wear from age.

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@Tigris99

I know this is an older thread,

But how 'bout that update on the Dorman valve (and any other observations)? I saw that you have been on the CRVOC recently...

 

@Carbuff2.... 2 cents.... Get the OEM for VVT, went through 2 to 3 years of aftermarket and I was about to give up on my 2006 Honda CRV 300,000k miles. But I bit the bullet. After putting the OEM in the car, it ran pretty much back to normal, but now starting to have some slight idling issues with no codes. I'm planning on cleaning out the solenoid again after the next oil change. Might replace the filter too. I do deliveries as a side hustle so I have to stay up on maintenance. I'm not a mechanic, but I know some mechanics and have worked on my car and spent a few months helping out at a car shop.

 

Thanks for the requested feedback.

Which brand(s) of VVT valves failed early for you?

I had the same issues with aftermarket clutch master cylinders. Needed to wait for OEM to get one that would last more than 15K miles.

 

Just throwing this comment into this thread, mine is 2005 gen 2 @200k
I think I experienced this performance wake up described here, by just changing the oring (honda part) on the OEM VVT oil control valve (passenger side above motor mt). I was chasing the disgusting mass of weep/ oil leaks on the pass side and rear corner of the motor. So I also changed the oring/filter screens on the Vtec (rear) and vvt (front) both clean but baked. And the PCV (old was still clicking a bit).

Maybe the VVT valve leaked under load and weakened my vtec timing system. It never coded out anything. But it drove like a dog since I got it @190k and I couldn't understand because I have a lot of miles on a 03 Accord which was a sportscar IMO. I was surprised by the doggish performance, but just accepted it and attributed the difference to the magic of the accord vs the early suv suspension and 4wd driveline rotational mass and a dumbed down transmission in a family car.

big performance increase boost across all rpm. especially at 1-2-3rd gear city acceleration where it would previously always jump to third gear and lug instead of whipping up to 4500 in 2nd.

thanks to @Tigris99, who has moved on, for the explanation. And note, NO CODES were thrown!

 

I had the same problem as the OP with my 2011. I had the entire timing system (both chains, guides, VTC screen, VTEC screen, VTC Actuator, and VTC Oil Control Solenoid) changed with all OEM parts and still persisted. I had the occasional VTC rattle at cold start, which is why everything was changed. At the time I had yet to change the actual VTEC solenoid itself though. I suspected my issue lied there since the VTEC Solenoid and VTC Oil Control Solenoid share Oil pressure between them and if one is allowing pressure to drop or isn't reading pressure correctly, they wont function properly. I have VTEC activating at higher RPM, but it feels like its in "limp mode" between 2k-3k after 1st gear until the RPMs get to 3k then power seems to come back. If VTEC isn't working, the engine will go into a "limp mode" and wont want to go over 30mph and/or rev over 3k rpm. Not sure if its is intermittently going into a limp mode due to VTEC solenoid oil pressure issues. I drove with that issue for years and it eventually restricted my cat and worn out two of my fuel injectors. Replace the VTEC Solenoid, Cat, and two injectors and my issue went away. I did them all at the same time, so im not exactly sure which of them caused the issue, but I do know my VTC was still rattling once and a blue moon until I changed the VTEC solenoid itself, the screen was replaced before in the past.

 

What is the likelyhood of vvt oil control valve solenoid valve failure? and at what mileage?
============================
AI response:

"The likelihood of VVT oil control valve solenoid failure in a Honda K24 engine is moderate, with failures occurring due to wear and tear, oil contamination, or related component failures, typically between 60,000 and 125,000 miles.

Here's a more detailed breakdown:

• Common Causes of Failure:
  • Wear and Tear: Over time, the solenoid's internal components can degrade, leading to malfunction and eventual failure.
    
    
  • Oil Contamination: Dirty or poor-quality engine oil can clog the valve, causing it to stick or malfunction.
    
    
  • Related Component Failures: Failure of related components, such as the VTC actuator or other parts of the VVT system, can impede the proper functioning of the oil control valve.
    
    
  • Electrical Faults: The valve is controlled by the engine control unit (ECU), and electrical issues can cause malfunctions.
• Symptoms of a Failing VVT Solenoid:
  • Rough or uneven idle.
    
    
  • Poor engine acceleration and performance.
    
    
  • Reduced fuel economy.
    
    
  • Engine misfires.
    
    
  • Oil leaks from the solenoid housing.
• Preventative Maintenance:
  • Regular oil changes and oil filter replacements are crucial for maintaining the engine's health and preventing oil contamination.
    
    
  • Using high-quality engine oil is important for proper lubrication and preventing sludge buildup.
• When to Inspect:
  • The solenoid is usually inspected when you are experiencing problems with the VVT system, or if the Check Engine light illuminates and the computer provides a camshaft position or VVT system related code.

========================================================

Still original VVT solenoid at 250k+ miles. Could it be due to frequent (every 3-4k miles) oil changes?
The VVT oil strainer and VVT solenoid filter gasket were replaced at 242k miles.

Anyone else have the original VVT solenoid in their K24 with high miles?

 

You've answered your own question.

"Frequent oil changes". I wouldn't push these engine past 4k anyway since they are known to have some oil burning issues at higher mileage. The oil change interval on my 2011 says 7500 miles and that's just plain stupid since those are known oil burners and you'd be out of oil way before 7500 miles.

Sometimes they fail electronically, but also they fail to varying degrees. Some may work but most won't notice if it is having some issues. You really don't know if it's failed until it fully fails. They aren't common to fail on a Honda unless you aren't maintaining your engine properly. Sometimes even if you are maintaining the engine properly, it will still cause issues or fail. When it actually fails, you will know since you won't be able to drive over 30.

Mine still works. I swapped it out because I'm OCD and I just change it when I replaced the VTC actuator on the camshaft, a long with the the chains, tensioner and guides because I could afford to. I'm not the original owner and it used to burn oil when I got it, but I got that corrected. Hence the want to change it all out.