There are more opinions than stars in the universe.

Since modern oils and engines do so well, I wouldn't bother to spend the extra money unless you truly believe you are going to keep the car until it dies. Even then, I'll bet that the engine outlasts the rest of the car, computer included.

 

I agree with 2RedV's comment. Although, I am a fan of synthetic. The one tangible difference, if true, that I spoke to the dealership when I purchased my 2007 CRV is the oil monitor. The cpu that controls this function is programmed/geared towards regular oil. Meaning, according to the dealership, if I start using synthetic I will have to go by mileage, the old way, instead of waiting to see if the percentage gets to a certain point on the display. To me, this is no big deal if correct. Just some thoughts, hope this helps.

 

Can't beet synthetic.

I do 10K km oil changes on the CR-V with Motul 4100 and once a year on the Prelude with Motul 8100.

CR-V has 275,000 km and dosen't burn a drop.

 

In a CRV's 2.4 (for 07) engine, I wouldn't use a full synthetic oil. A high revving engine in a S2000 or HP vehicle I would, but not in a CRV. I just don't see a need for it.
Maybe half synthetic half conventional oil.
To me, oil brand would be a bigger consideration.

 

Oil Brand



What brand do you suggest? If you read the manual, Honda insists that you use only Honda brand fluids to the degree that if you use something else in an emergency that you have the dealer flush it and install the Honda fluid. Motor oil is an exception, although they highly recommend Honda Motor Oil.

I am sure Honda's oil is probably 3 times as expensive as normally available oil, but is there a discernable difference?

I intend to keep the car forever & don't mind paying premium providing that there is something more to the oil than an H logo on a pretty bottle.

I intend to change the oil myself and wonder can you buy Honda oil somewhere besides the dealer or internets sales?

While we are on the subject of oil, my dealer told me that the oil life maintenance monitor was determined by a laser beam and sensor in the oil pan that measured the clarity of the oil. This seemed a bit far fetched to me and I have not found any technical info verifying that claim. Then again having radio emmitting pressure sensors on the valve stems of your tires seems a bit far fetched.

 

thanks all

I guess I'll go the regular route save some money and I too believe that engines and oils have come a long way to be better than what they were a few years back.

 

Does Honda have a Synthetic Auto tranny oil?

Looking for a Honda compatible Synthetic auto tranny fluid for my v? any suggestions? Thiking about Redline auto tranny fluid for our v baby after 36K.

 

Black Pearl, the dealer told you the incorrect information concerning a laser in the oil pan.

The following appears in the 2007 CRV's User Manual (Page 257):
"Based on the engine operating conditions and accumulated engine revolutions, the onboard computer in your vehicle calculates the remaining engine oil life and displays it as a percentage"

No matter what type of oil are used, the oil itself generally doesn't break down before the additives that are used within the oil. This is where the modern oils are so much better than the old oils in combination with the various filters that are sold. Meaning, the oil can last longer because the filters also do a better job of cleaning the contaminates out of the oil.

 

which oil filter????

which oil filters would you guys use?? the honda genuine ones or filters from autozone??

On the subject of filters, my friend brought up a good point where I should use genuine honda filters just so I won't void the warranty if I use something else...is that true????

 

Honda

which oil filters would you guys use?? the honda genuine ones or filters from autozone??

On the subject of filters, my friend brought up a good point where I should use genuine honda filters just so I won't void the warranty if I use something else...is that true????

I perused the manual and they are very quick to point out that only Honda fluids should be used. If other fluids are used in an emergency, the car should be taken to the dealer and the system flushed. However on oil, they only recommend using Honda oil. They do demand an API certified oil. I saw no demand or recommendation for the brand of filter.

You can get a 6 pack of Honda filters at H & A for $26.64

http://www.handa-accessories.com/crvmaint07.html

 

Are they good filters?

To be honest with you, I don't have a clue.

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Filters

According to this guy the manufacturer's filters are generally the best.

The aftermarket filters (Fram, Wix, Purolator etc) vary in quality.


One would think that a Honda filter changed at every oil change will be better than adequate. Is it the best? Probably not. Is the best absolutely required? Probably not. If you are using the vehicle in a normal fashion, I am going to bet that the Honda filter will be fine.

I used Pure One on my previous car. Whether they are any better than a regulator filter, I don't know. But they were certainly pricey compared to the other filters sold at Advance Auto Parts.

 

From the September 2002 Honda Service News is a nice little article about using larger oil filters. (keep in mind this was written in 2002 and part numbers may have changed) However, people on other forums have reported this is true for the 2nd gen's with no issues. Assuming the 2007 (3rd gen) V is the same since the engine is basically unchanged, this should be OK as well.


Can a Small Oil Filter Be Replaced by a Large One?

For all Honda models, the answer is YES. The 65
mm diameter oil filter is directly interchangeable
with the 80 mm diameter filter. Both filters use the
same filtration media to do the job, and filter out
at least 70 percent of the particles that are 30
microns or larger, and 85 percent of the
particles that are 40 microns or larger.
• Large filter: P/N 15400-PLC-004,
H/C 6475834 or
P/N 15400-PLM-A01,
H/C 6446231
• Small filter: P/N 15400-PT7-005,
H/C 3630399 or
P/N 15400-P0H-305,
H/C 4908182

 

Oil Filters

Thanks for the info.


Browsing about H&A, it appears that there are 2 filters:

15400-PLM-A02 which seems to be used on everything except the S2000. Even the Ody and Ridgelines. $5.04 ea or $26.64 for a 6 pack

15400-PCX-004 is for the S2000 $6.68 ea or 35.28 for a 6 pack.

There is no indication that the filters are or are not inter-changeable.

There was a note on some models about the 15400-PLM-A02 being a smaller diameter than the previous 15400-POH-305 which was discontinued.

The filter wrenches listed under each model had a different reference number and price. The S2000 was 24.90 and the CR-V was 18.65.

If you already have a wrench, you may want to stick with the standard filter.

Although tempting, I think I may go with the standard filter. If it is good enough for the Ody and Ridgeline, it should be fine on a CR-V.

 

on the PCX filter Honda says:

depending on the application it may make the filter harder to get on and off if the space is really tight.

-Trevor

 

For those who live in four season climates, put a quart of conventional and a quart of synthetic in the freezer for a couple of hours. Then give them the pour test, might change your mind.
With the MM on the Honda's, people are getting upwards of 9,000 mi. on their oil before changing. I am not sure I would trust a conventional oil to that extent. A UOA test could ease concerns.

 

instead of wastin 2 perfectly good bottles of oil, can you tell us what the results are????

 

Hard To Believe

It is hard to believe that the TP withstood the heat and dp across the filter.
Did they do the inverse of the experiment and place filter media on the toilet paper roll? Probably be some interesting data generated with that experiment.

 

It is hard to believe that the TP withstood the heat and dp across the filter.
Did they do the inverse of the experiment and place filter media on the toilet paper roll? Probably be some interesting data generated with that experiment.

I believe that is why they rewrapped the TP so tightly, to help with the heat & such. I wouldn't have believed it if I wouldn't have seen it. It's been a while. I can't remember if they rewrapped the TP around the original roll or not, but I don't think they did, due to how they cleaned the TP.
Basically, they were trying to show that it is the filter & its "guts" that should be of more concern than the oil brand itself.
Again, this was before synthetic oil was big with the public.

 

Okay, so who makes the Synthetic Double Pump fluid or What is Amsoil's replacment?

 

AMSOIL does not make one, nor does anyone else. Honda has refused to release the specs/additives on what is in this hydraulic fluid. Since the Honda fluid, when changed regularly, makes these units last several hundred thousand miles (based upon other owners reports) it simply isn't worth trying to experiment with another fluid.

 

Fluids and Warranty Coverage

For those with newer vehicles still under warranty, Honda states in the owner's manual that specific Honda brand fluids must be used in

Automatic Transmission
Brakes
Engine Coolant
Power Steering
Rear Differential

The owners manual will suggest temporary alternatives for some of the fluids in case of an emergency but then requires that the vehicle be returned to the dealer and flushed and refilled with the proper Honda fluid.

The rear differential fluid does not have an alternative listed, and it specifically states to use Honda Dual Pump Fluid and not to use automatic transmission fluid.

Judging from 2RedV's commentary elsewhere in the forums regarding the rear differential, one is playing a fool's game to not regularly change the oil and to use anything but Honda's Fluid.

For those owners who no longer have warranties still in effect I would give deep consideration to idea that if Honda does not want to pay for repairs when non-Honda fluids have been used, you shouldn't want to pay them either. Use the Honda fluid, its cheap insurance.

 

Don't believe the brake fluid though - DOT 3 is a federal spec. Use ANY QUALITY DOT3 brake fluid you want.

 

Will the Feds Honor Your Warranty?



I have found myself in agreement with 99% of your comments, but on this one, alas, I find I must disagree.

From pg 275 of the owner's manual.

"Using any non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and decrease the life of the system. Have the brake system flushed and refilled with Honda Heavy Duty Brake Fluid DOT 3 as soon as possible."

If I remember right, and I don't claim to know anything, DOT brake fluid specs were for boiling temperatures. The old fluids would boil with the higher heat loading from disk brakes causing a spongy pedal or no pedal.

Again I say, use the Honda fluid, its cheap insurance.

Oh, they also say not to use DOT 5 under any cirmcumstances because it will cause "extensive damage". Maybe DOT specs have more to them than boiling temperature.

 

Amsoil

I've no doubt that Honda oil, filters, etc, are good for Honda autos, but I'll take filters with 98.7% particle removal at 15 microns over 70% at 30 microns.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx

And, 0 viscosity at startup, when most wear on an engine occurs, is simply better than 5 (see freezer test, amsoil runs freely when frozen, dino oil does not). BTW, Amsoil oils are API certified, in spite of a multitude of mis-information out there.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asm.aspx

Amsoil ATF, once again, flows easily at startup when temps are very low, dino ATF does not. This does meet the requirements for Honda Z1, but, what is a "CVT" transmission? Nothing in my '06 manual states that I have a CVT, so I assume I do not.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atf.aspx

Honda engines will go forever, usually, no matter what you use. I prefer Amsoil, for the obvious reasons.

 

I've no doubt that Honda oil, filters, etc, are good for Honda autos, but I'll take filters with 98.7% particle removal at 15 microns over 70% at 30 microns.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx

And, 0 viscosity at startup, when most wear on an engine occurs, is simply better than 5 (see freezer test, amsoil runs freely when frozen, dino oil does not). BTW, Amsoil oils are API certified, in spite of a multitude of mis-information out there.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asm.aspx

Amsoil ATF, once again, flows easily at startup when temps are very low, dino ATF does not. This does meet the requirements for Honda Z1, but, what is a "CVT" transmission? Nothing in my '06 manual states that I have a CVT, so I assume I do not.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atf.aspx

Honda engines will go forever, usually, no matter what you use. I prefer Amsoil, for the obvious reasons.

My main issue with Amsoil (vs Mobil 1, etc. synthetics) is the manner in which Amsoil conducts business. You mainly come across Amsoil "pushers" who claim all of these "benefits" but then you find out they are selling the product themselves. No thanks.

Like I have said before, since Honda engines last so long to begin with, why bother to spend extra money for engine protection when they do so well without it? What happens when you end up with a 300,000 mile car with a great engine but the rest of the car is falling apart due to age and normal wear?

 

Spending Money

The great thing about money is that my extended warranty didn't cost you a dime and your Amsoil costs me nothing. As to the wisdom of buying an extended warranty, I doubt that there is any. Most likely it will be a waste of money... ah but my money. I do not buy extended warranties on anything other than automobiles. I wrestle with it everytime I do it, but I notice that once I commit to buying it, I never think about it again. But obviously I do not want to invalidate it by not following the service procedures.

You have had very good experience with Amsoil, and you find that it gives you peace of mind. I never heard of the stuff until I joined this forum. You will spend a lot less for your Amsoil than I will spend on the warranty. In both cases it probably is a waste of money. But you have spent far less money and time under your oil pan. So I congratulate you on choosing wisely.

As I said before, I never heard Amsoil until joining this forum. We have winters in Pittsburgh, but I can't say that the cold here has me concerned about the performance of regular motor oil. I am sure though that Amsoil is an excellent choice of lubricant.

As poor of a choice as an extended warranty is, (and it most certainly is, I recommend it to no one--I only do it for peace of mind, and mostly because I am a good bit simple minded--but I digress) I will say this: the use of Amsoil will do nothing for the life of the CPU, air conditioning, brakes, power steering, suspension, fuel system, cd player, electrical system, or non lubricant issues involving the engine, transmission, or rear differential. The warranty does cover these things in varying detail, but most likely I will never use it, but it is peace of mind. It is doing something positive when confronted with mind numbing amount of clap trap on a modern vehicle that can go bad. It cost me 1.1 cent per additional mile covered. Good deal? Not hardly. Should everyone do it? Absolutely not! But it is peace of mind for the feeble minded.

Again my only comments regarding Amsoil is look for the API seal, and if you are concerned with your warranty, abide by Honda's required intervals and not Amsoil's.

 

Amsoil

I am not sure I want to get into this but I Googled Amsoil. As I said in an earlier post, I never heard of it until I joined this forum.

If I use my usual BS detectors, I would have to say that something is odd about Amsoil. There are thousands of sites devoted to the glories of Amsoil, for everything from chain saws to jet engines. There is one lady even selling techniques to better sell Amsoil. You open another site and the first thing you find is a page and half devoted to the credentials of some guy proving that he is certified public lubricating engineer, then he starts singing grand arias to the wonders of Amsoil. There was another site claiming that Mobil 1 is still playing catch up to Amsoil. (Excuse my ignorance here, but I believe that if Mobil 1 was seriously worried about Amsoil, Exxon/Mobil would simply buy the company.)

There is a certain religious fervor to it that would make me run from a religion let alone something as mundane as oil. Judging from the passion that I have read about it in this forum, I should imagine that it is a good product.

However, why can't I buy it at my local autoparts store? There is a site that explaines why. My BS detector states: stay away from this stuff. If for no other reason than, I simply want to buy some oil. I don't want to become part of an exciting multi-million dollar retail organization extending the life of millions of engines, improving world peace, solving world hunger through longer tractor oil changes, improving the environment...

Good products usually don't need this level of fervor to successfully make it in the market. Something is odd.

 

Black Pearl...

Amsoil is sold exclusively via a multi-level marketing program, ala Amway, Avon, Mary Kay Cosmetics, etc. The people who tout the products the loudest and most fervently are always the ones making the money off of the product.

It is VERY difficult to find REAL, INDEPENDENT lab tests of Amsoil. You will find Amsoil supported tests proclaiming it to be the savior of oil.

Around my area, many farmers use the product, however, they are sellers - to themselves. When they buy oil and hydraulic fluids by the drum, at wholesale, they save a bundle of money over what they would have to pay for other products.

 

Amsoil

I bought a '97 with 100K miles on it, and right away switched to synthetic oil since I need it to last a long time. A friend recommended Amsoil so I bought some from their web site. I had no experience with the religious fervor or cult like behavior that everyone mentions, or I would probably have run screaming too. Incidentally, I met a local dealer one day who actually recommended that I just buy through the web site. I change the oil and filter every six months, and driving 15K per year I have found the cost to be comparable to regular oil while spending far less time on oil changes.
I also noticed that my mileage is higher than my dad's '97 (both have 140K miles). My mileage averages 26-28 and his averages 22-24. Maybe that is the difference in synthetic oil.

 

Improvement in Mileage

An improvement in mileage would justify the extra cost of synthetic (I have an extended warranty to protect so I can't use a longer period). My comments on Amsoil is purely based on the amount of propaganda that I Googled. So you didn't have unexplained loss of periods of time or odd scars on your body after buying it? You don't feel compelled to turn over 50% of your income to Amsoil, and enlist your neighbors and friends to the cause? It is just oil?

 

not a seller

An improvement in mileage would justify the extra cost of synthetic (I have an extended warranty to protect so I can't use a longer period). My comments on Amsoil is purely based on the amount of propaganda that I Googled. So you didn't have unexplained loss of periods of time or odd scars on your body after buying it? You don't feel compelled to turn over 50% of your income to Amsoil, and enlist your neighbors and friends to the cause? It is just oil?

I don't sell it, but I do pay for the "preferred customer" membership to get the stuff at wholesale. With extended drain intervals, I pay about the same as I would for Honda oil and filters.

I ignore the marketing, but do pay attention to what independent mechanics have to say, and, the improved mileage and shifting on my Tacoma is enough for me.

 

Math Lesson.

Time to play the numbers.

IF one normally gets 24 mpg and gets .5 of 1 mpg as an increase by switching to synthetic oil and gas costs $3 per gallon, and the owner follows the manual and changes oil every 10,000 miles with either oil, will there be any payback?

Dino oil and 24 mpg = $1250 for fuel every 10,000 miles or $.125 per mile

Syn oil and 24.5 mpg = $1224 for fuel every 10,000 miles or $.1224 per mile

One would save $26 in fuel costs every 10,000 miles. Dino oil costs around $2.50 per quart and syn about $5. You need 4.4 quarts in your V to change oil (unless you are using the bigger S2000 filter). We will assume buying 5 quarts for this.

Dino oil - $12.50 per change
Syn oil - $25.00 per change

Your $26 in fuel savings minus the extra cost of the oil ($12.50) gives you a possible savings of $13.50 every 10,000 miles. However, if you are buying the $10+ syn oil filter... you eat up most of that savings.

If gas prices drop, you save less and if they rise, you save a little more.

 

Mileage Improvement

Your math is based on 1/2 mpg. Our friend from TN reports getting 4 mpg better than Dad, which I doubt can be purely attributed to syn oil. Is there some recognized average improvement, based on independent science rather than marketing hype? My BS detectors are covered in sludge from yesterday's excursion into Amsoil. I don't have the resolve to google synthetic oil mpg improvement.

 

Your math is based on 1/2 mpg. Our friend from TN reports getting 4 mpg better than Dad, which I doubt can be purely attributed to syn oil. Is there some recognized average improvement, based on independent science rather than marketing hype? My BS detectors are covered in sludge from yesterday's excursion into Amsoil. I don't have the resolve to google synthetic oil mpg improvement.

I have used syn oil in many vehicles since 1984 when I bought a new Pontiac Fiero (easy now, it was actually a great car) and switched to Mobil 1 at 10k miles.

I am a fervent mpg watcher (good indicator of upcoming problems) and always get about .5 to nearly 1 additional mpg when I switch.
An additional 4 mpg is more than a suspect number.

I do not bother with syn in my 2 V's because I use them as commuter cars and expect to replace them at any given time. I do not expect any engine issues within the time frame I normally keep one of the commuter vehicles and spending extra for maintaining the engine for the next guy doesn't interest me. That being said, it looks like I will be keeping the 99 for my 16 year old son and buying either an 08 V or an 09 diesel V and keeping the 04. I can't see getting rid of either V since they are still well liked by all of us and in amazing shape.