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SleepyG

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Does anyone understand how the oem front speakers are wired? Is there a crossover somewhere or something?
It seems like there are just front and rear speaker wires, so how do the tweeters connect to the front speakers/head unit, and do they have an inline high pass filter hidden somewhere?
I want to install new components as well as a kenwood head unit but not sure where the tweeter wires go from the dash.

I'm planning to run active crossovers and have 6 channels of amplifier and dsp ready to go.

Will I have to run new wires to the tweeters?
Can I just use the factory speaker wire for the woofer and run my own to the tweeter?

This is a 2010 EX btw. Do I have a factory amp somewhere?

A bit confused here....

Thanks for any help!




Just thought I would share some progress pics of my diy sound deadening work while I await some help.
 
Does anyone understand how the oem front speakers are wired? Is there a crossover somewhere or something?
It seems like there are just front and rear speaker wires, so how do the tweeters connect to the front speakers/head unit, and do they have an inline high pass filter hidden somewhere?
I want to install new components as well as a kenwood head unit but not sure where the tweeter wires go from the dash.

I'm planning to run active crossovers and have 6 channels of amplifier and dsp ready to go.

Will I have to run new wires to the tweeters?
Can I just use the factory speaker wire for the woofer and run my own to the tweeter?

This is a 2010 EX btw. Do I have a factory amp somewhere?

A bit confused here....

Thanks for any help!
I would run new wires if you can't find the proper wiring diagrams. Some speakers have transformers directly on the speakers.. did you go to Crutchfield, they usually k ow what's needed , can't say for sure.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I would run new wires if you can't find the proper wiring diagrams. Some speakers have transformers directly on the speakers.. did you go to Crutchfield, they usually k ow what's needed , can't say for sure.
Yeah, Crutchfield just states that you have to find a custom mounting solution. Doesn't mention wiring.
I'm sure if I just hook up my components without the passive crossover, I would just blow the tweeter instantly from the full range signal.
I don't want to cut or modify anything if possible.
I used the wiring adapters to install the woofers in the front doors. I guess I will just unplug the tweeters and run a new wire to them directly from the amp.
Seems like the best solution.
 
Remove the original speakers from the mounts and inspect them. If there is no integrated crossover on the speaker itself (usually containing capacitors) then you have a split signal coming to them. Sometimes the crossover is integrated with the woofer and the tweeter wire continues on from there after it's been filtered. Also check the tweeter that is has nothing extra on it.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Remove the original speakers from the mounts and inspect them. If there is no integrated crossover on the speaker itself (usually containing capacitors) then you have a split signal coming to them. Sometimes the crossover is integrated with the woofer and the tweeter wire continues on from there after it's been filtered. Also check the tweeter that is has nothing extra on it.
Thanks, I will check the tweeter, there must be something i didn't see before.
Definitely nothing on the woofer, just one + and - wire.

I read somewhere that there is a plug hidden behind the dash where it splits the wires.
So must be a small capacitor hidden somewhere....
 
Yeah, Crutchfield just states that you have to find a custom mounting solution. Doesn't mention wiring.
I'm sure if I just hook up my components without the passive crossover, I would just blow the tweeter instantly from the full range signal.
I don't want to cut or modify anything if possible.
I used the wiring adapters to install the woofers in the front doors. I guess I will just unplug the tweeters and run a new wire to them directly from the amp.
Seems like the best solution.
On a car I had the cross overs were mounted directly on the speakers
 
I replaced the entire system on my 2015 exl, there is no crossover on the tweeters in the front door sail panels, and the speaker wires are simply spliced into the front lower door speakers. I ran everything to a new amp under the passenger seat behind the factory sw box. There was a factory amp in my 2015, not sure about one in yours though. It was a royal pain to disconnect the factory amp, which was tucked up under the dash sort of in front of the center console. You have to be a contortionist to get your hands up in there. It wasn't easy, but I used my factory speaker wire instead of running all new wire, which isn't any easier than just bypassing the factory amp. My factory amp went out so I just replaced everything except the speaker wiring, all 7 speakers and the head unit, and added two amps, one for the 6 door speakers and one for the sw.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I replaced the entire system on my 2015 exl, there is no crossover on the tweeters in the front door sail panels, and the speaker wires are simply spliced into the front lower door speakers. I ran everything to a new amp under the passenger seat behind the factory sw box. There was a factory amp in my 2015, not sure about one in yours though. It was a royal pain to disconnect the factory amp, which was tucked up under the dash sort of in front of the center console. You have to be a contortionist to get your hands up in there. It wasn't easy, but I used my factory speaker wire instead of running all new wire, which isn't any easier than just bypassing the factory amp. My factory amp went out so I just replaced everything except the speaker wiring, all 7 speakers and the head unit, and added two amps, one for the 6 door speakers and one for the sw.
Nice!

I just had the basic 6 speaker set up in mine. No amp, so that kind of made things easier and basically almost plug and play with a crux 62b harness wired up. The wiring splits behind the dash in my 2010 and goes to the tweeters, then into the doors.
I am going to also be installing a 6 channel amp and then a mono for a single 10" sub, for now.
I wanted to get a custom enclosure to tuck into the side of the rear trunk space but the quotes I got were all into 4 figures..... ouch.

So far I am just at 4 dradened doors and speakers installed. Have the tweeters mounted but won't bother to activate them and run new wires until I get around to installing the 6 channel amp. Still need to decide where I mount it. It's pretty tiny so I would love to hide it under the drivers seat. Would make wiring it a breeze location wise.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Image

The sound was still unimpressive with the doors speakers running from the oem head unit. I couldn't believe how much it came to life just with 22w rms from this kenwood!
Can't imagine the clarity at high volume with up to 75w on tap.
Gotta cut some bass from the doors for sure when I get the sub in. So much more powerful it finds new ways to rattle even after some extreme deadening.
 
I replaced the entire system on my 2015 exl, there is no crossover on the tweeters in the front door sail panels, and the speaker wires are simply spliced into the front lower door speakers.
Are you saying the front door speaker cable just does fork Y in the door with full range signal going towards the woofers and tweeters? There there's a high pass filter in the tweeter itself.
 
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