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2014 Serpentine belt replacement

7.5K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  grazzie  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I went the route of removing the RF tire and splash shield. I think that made easy access to the crank and AC pulleys. I did not use a special tensioner tool. I used the combination of a 14mm box end on the tensioner bolt and connected a large box end wrench into the open end of the 14mm. Does it work? Yes. Do I recommend it? Questionable. After routing the belt from the bottom to the top, I used a bungee cord to keep a little tension on the belt while I got the wrenches in place. While pulling HARD on the wrenches and trying to slip the belt over the idler pulley with my other hand, the belt pushes outward on the wrenches and either the wrench slipped off the bolt or the wrenches came apart all of the sudden sending the wrenches flying. I still have all my fingers. I did eventually get the belt on. To do it again I think I would try using the special tool. My other recent project of replacing the rear window motor/regulators I rated at a 2 or 3. Getting the belt back on made this job more difficult. I would give this a 5 or 6 (special tool would no doubt make it easier). I took a picture of the tensioner indicator before and after replacing the belt.

 
#3 · (Edited)
I remember changing the belt on my 2007 CRV. I had to remove the power steering reservoir and bracket in order to have enough room to get the wrench on the tensioner. Putting the belt back on, I called my wife to just hold the wrench in position while I slip the last part of the belt on. That was the first time. The second time was a lot easier. Second time was due to changing the alternator.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I just replaced my 2013 OEM belt with a Bando 7PK1680 aftermarket. With the stretched OEM belt, the tensioner indicator arrow was all the way to the right of the shallow rectangle (like the OP's first photo), but with the new belt, it's on the left edge of the deep rectangle like this top graphic. I guess I was a little surprised at the huge indicator difference, but somewhere in this forum, I read the Bandos are a little shorter or Gates are longer or something like that. I triple checked the belt positions and all was perfect. Oh, I didn't remove the tire. I jacked the front, used stands, and then turned the steering wheel right. (Straighten the wheel before setting back down)

I also used the 2 wrenches linked together (14mm & 17mm) which gave me plenty of leverage room, but I duct taped them together to make it a little easier. I think the trick is to have the belt partially off the tensioner at 3-6 o'clock and partially off the idler at 9-12 o'clock and wiggle each on little by little.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I'm in the process of getting a few things together for my hondaautomotiveparts order- to make the shipping cost worthwhile. When I changed my serpentine belt, one clip was missing and other was worn on the access flap in the passenger wheel well. I've been searching for hours for the correct clips. I bought 2 packages of clips on Amazon and neither fit.

Looking at this page, would the clips (number 10) that hold the bottom of the Splash Shield (number 8) also be the correct ones that holds this side flap in place?

How many different clips or grommets are there on these cars? Someone should sell a kit of all of the clips/grommets needed in one particular make/model of car... a few of each is all you need. Instead of buying a 100 pack and only using a fraction. Some green door panel clips, some yellow front grill clips, ect, ect. The wheel well liner alone has 2 or 3 types of grommets/clips. Thanks.

EDIT: Found THIS!