It could be a number of things, bad tires (how old and how many miles are on them), bad wheel bearing (I suspect this).

 

here’s a video of the sound. Not 100% sure about the tires when they did the rotation they said they probably need to be changed in 6 months but treads were fine.

 

Could be the tires. My old tires would hum since the tread was 3/32-2/32. As soon as I put the Michelin Defenders on it the vehicle got quiet.

 

Also, separate from that it’s making this noise when accelerating or decelerating for the first few miles until engine is at temperature.

 

sounds like a light knocking sound.
i would suggest to check the basics 1st.
check if all of the lug nuts are tight.
it sounds like they might have forgotten to tighten one tire.
just to be on the safe side.
do not wait long as this is can be a dangerous situation.
I hope this helps.
as you also mentioned that you just had a tire rotation.
if all the lug nuts are properly tightened, it could be a bad cords inside one or more tires.

 

Follow otto888man advice. Torque check your lug nuts immediately - 80 ft. lbs should be the torque. Double check this figure. Next is a suspension inspection of the rear struts and springs. It obviously wasn't doing this before the rotation so now you may have tires in front that are cupped from warn out struts in the rear. The front is heavier so you hear it and feel it more up there now. Then confirm your tires quality and balances. Did they balance your tires when they rotated them. If not, get them balanced and inspected right away. Make sure to use a tread depth gauge on all tires to ensure the tires are located in the correct locations. Ie. There should be slightly more tread on the right passenger side front than there is on the right rear. Same thing on other driver side, more tread on the front than on the rear. It doesn't matter if your vehicle is AWD.

 

Tires possibly out of balance. Also maybe in need of a wheel alignment.

 

Follow up...Due to Coastie05's comment about a "suspect" bad wheel bearing. Another vehicle owner confirmed this to me a few minutes ago. He said that his issue was confirmed to be two bad front wheel bearings. My advice to him yesterday was: Jack up a wheel and secure it. With both hands one at 12 and the other at 6 move the entire wheel up and down. Remember to secure the jack point. (jack stand!) Next place one hand on 9 and the other on 3 and move the wheel side to side. If it's loose in either direction you may have a bad wheel bearing in that location. Check all four wheel locations. Note: Front wheels have a small amount of movement back and forth due to the steering components. You'll know if it's a bad wheel bearing but don't stop there if there's no movement.

The next step is to spin the wheel and listen for noise (stethoscope). You may need a shop with a lift for this testing? A fast spinning wheel test is effective too.

 

Note: Do not torque check a wheel with loose lug nuts! If they're loose ??? First, jack up that location and block the wheel so it doesn't spin. Loosen, then tighten the lugnuts with a socket (19MM?) & wratchet socket wrench. Once tight, remove the tire block and lower that location to the ground. Finish with your torque wrench to the proper specification (80 ft. lbs?)

 

Any update on this?

 

Bringing it to the dealer tomorrow, will keep you updated

 

Wishing you all the LUCK in the world!

 

Honda said it was the tires. Moving tires from the back to the front where there’s more weight made the sound show up more. Thank you everyone for all your help!!

 

So Honda rotated your tires to the rear? Again? What happens if or when they wear out on the front faster than they wear out in the rear? Do you need to do tire rotations more frequently?

 

For now yes, but I Will be getting new tires shortly. I will definitely ask about what I should do for future.

 

https://www.crvownersclub.com/threads/best-oem-size-replacement-tires.248788/?post_id=1886026#post-1886026

 

If I may make a suggestion? If you buy non-directional tires, meaning they can spin in either direction (Most Tires) then always mark your tires for rotation BEFORE you take it for the actual rotation. You can ignore me if you want but I do this and I'm always! finding that the free rotation is WRONG! And that just costs me more money in the long run!

You want non-directional tires from the back to crisscross to the front. This means you mark LF on the RR tire somewhere where you know but not necessarily they know. That part is up to you. Then mark on the LR tire RF. The location of the marked wheel is to be marked in the position after the rotation. The front tires are then rotated to the rear axle. So, RF becomes RR and LF becomes LR. When you find RR on LR that's your queue to alert the tire tech. TO DO IT AGAIN! Then get a Costco Membership because this has never happened to my vehicle at that store. Your CR-V would perform admirably in a new set of Michelin Cross Climate2 or Defender2 tires. The 2 means they just made the tire even better!

 

I rotate depending on the wear of the front tires. Where I live, it's steep, so the turns coming downhill onto another street are tough on the tires, eventually resulting in a minor stepping of the outer tread. But my front tires are not always like that when it's time for a rotation (at 5K miles). Basically, if I drive like a maniac (in a hurry), the wear shows more. If I drive more civilized then the wear may be more even. So, I always run my fingers over the front tire outer tread to feel for stepping. If it's there, the tires get rotated criss-cross. If the front tire treads feel even, then I just go front to back (same side). The funny thing is, it seems to work out that if I go criss-cross, the next time will be front to back, and so on. I ALWAYS instruct my mechanic which pattern to rotate with depending on my findings.

 

Also make sure that they tightened up all of the tire bolts.

 

I had the same thing happen immediately after tire rotation. I believe the last place did not rotate tires as I requested and paid for every 5K miles. That means they didn't get rotated for 10K miles. That is the first time for me, but from now forward I will be marking tire/wheel before rotation.

 

Thank you for writing that! People (CR-V Owners) really don't know/ comprehend or understand what's really going on until it's too late. A message to the CR-V communtity: Please stop trusting others that are "working over" your CR-V. Verify everything, yes I wrote everything. It's 'your money' and 'your life.'

 

One advantage of purchasing the entire package from places such as Discount Tire is that they offer free balancing & rotation.

Did many years of DIY maintenance on a variety of vehicles. Now, at my age, I take advantage of these kinds of offers. I will go get my oil changed at the dealership [bringing my own oil & filter] then go 1/2 mile down the road to have the tires rotated & balanced. Usually takes the whole morning for both procedures, but I don't have to worry about forgetting to do either.

One unintended advantage of doing this is that the dealership will do their free "multi-point" inspection which includes measuring tire depth. I also have one of those tread depth indicator devices [sliding metal tube with measurements in both mm & inches] that I use, too. Generally speaking, the depth that the dealership measures is almost identical to what I manually get. In this manner, when I go get my tires rotated, I know when I should be looking at replacing those tires instead of relying on the tire shop service writer's measurements.