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accessory power socket - not working/no power

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55K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  GMS  
#1 ·
This morning I was using a car vacuum that was plugged into the power socket in the dash and then suddenly the vaccum stopped. Checked the power socket by plugging in another device (a USB phone charger adapater), also no power. Checked the fuse in the interior fuse box and the fuse wasn’t blown. Is there any other place to check?
 
#3 ·
#7 ·
There's no substitute for checking the fuse with a tester or meter; a visual inspection simply isn't reliable. (Many fuse kits even come with a simple little continuity tester built into the puller.) You can pick up a kit for cheap at W-M, Amazon, whatever. I'd go for that before I bought a replacement socket or whatever; electrical parts are almost never returnable.
 
#9 ·
Ok, I checked the fuse again and also tried a new fuse and still doesn't work, so I'm concluding for now it's the socket itself that's gone bad. But I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the socket from the panel. Anyone know how or has youtube clip or something? THanks!
 
#10 ·
Remove the socket? Well now that's the $64,000 question. You have to know the trick and have the right tool. The socket pulls straight out. There are two small rectangular cut outs in the sides of the metal tube. You need to depress two plastic tabs in those cut outs and pull the sockets out. You can purchase the tool referred to as a J-42059. Or use a slender outside snap ring pliers. You could even bend a coat hanger to make a workable tool.
 

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#11 ·
Ok, after weeks of no time, I finally got around to dealing with this. Thanks for the tip on the tool. I didn't want to spend the money on it so I came up with another idea, by using the "handles" of a jumbo binder clip. I just pinch it in to remove it from the binder clip, then pinch it to insert it into the power port and then release and the tension does essentially do the same thing as that tool.

It turns out that it was the power port itself that was damaged and replacing it solved the problem. So now I'm wondering why the power port was damaged before the fuse blew. As I said, I was using a handheld car vacuum, that uses the powerport in the car for power. I had the engine running when I was using it and then all of the sudden the vacuum stopped. When I unplugged it, the vac's power cord plug was very, very hot, to where it could've burned my hand had I held it tight enough. I don't know enough about electronics/power but I assume that means the vac was drawing too much power, more than the car could handle. But I would assume the fuse would be the first to go and not the port itself?
 
#12 ·
It turns out that it was the power port itself that was damaged and replacing it solved the problem. So now I'm wondering why the power port was damaged before the fuse blew. As I said, I was using a handheld car vacuum, that uses the powerport in the car for power. I had the engine running when I was using it and then all of the sudden the vacuum stopped. When I unplugged it, the vac's power cord plug was very, very hot, to where it could've burned my hand had I held it tight enough. I don't know enough about electronics/power but I assume that means the vac was drawing too much power, more than the car could handle. But I would assume the fuse would be the first to go and not the port itself?
Retired electrical engineer here.

1) the power plug is fuse protected.. so there is no way for the vacuum you were using to "draw too much power". Honda is conservative and will fuse that power port with plenty of margin.

2) a hot power cord (to your touch) is a very subjective metric. Most vacuum power cords DO get warm when used.. because they do draw notable current across wires that are designed for short duty use (in other words.. plenty of time to cool down). So I personally would not put too much stock in this.

The most likely issue with the power port in this case is that it had a latent defect or weakness and was simply waiting for some electro-mechanical event to break it. Keep in mind.. plugging a power plug into the 12V power port is not as robust and immune from mechanical damage as say.. plugging a AC plug into your home outlets. Different beast entirely and I bet while you were moving around vacuuming... you accidentally yanked or tweaked the power plug while it was in the power port and a wire behind the power port broke. It can and does happen.
 
#13 ·
Well done, I never though of using a binder clip's wire handle. Will store that in memory for a suggestion to the next person who needs it.
Can you provide a pic of the old socket. Usually I find the failure is at the connection around the plug and socket where they over heat from a high load device plugged in.
 
#14 ·
Darn, I already threw away the old socket. On the surface I didn’t see and melted, damaged, blackened, etc parts. I pried apart the assembly, including all the plastics and still didn’t see anything abnormal. But then again this isn’t my field of expertise so I wouldn’t know what a damaged one would look like.
 
#15 ·
My front 12 volt socket stopped working yesterday the usb ones still work
So it is many thanks to this forum again I now know it is likely to be the socket rather than the fuse
Just as well because where the fuses are located I need to be 30 years younger to be able to check or replace :)
And the good thing is if I have read everything correctly it is a easy replacement
 
#22 ·
My front 12 volt socket stopped working yesterday the usb ones still work
So it is many thanks to this forum again I now know it is likely to be the socket rather than the fuse
Just as well because where the fuses are located I need to be 30 years younger to be able to check or replace :)
And the good thing is if I have read everything correctly it is a easy replacement
Maybe the socket maybe not. The fuse is always on; the adjacent relay causes the socket to be switched with the ignition. I jumped the relay to make my socket always on, but that had no effect on the usb ports - they are still switched with the ignition. So they are not governed by the same circuit. I would check the fuse and the relay first . . .
 
#17 ·
Topic was resolved.

How many amps is the fuse to the socket (10A), how many watts is it 120 watts?
With the vacuum was used, how many amps was it? a B & D vac has 12.5 Air watts (huh) yes google it, the vac I looked up was a BDH1200FVAV, its actually rated at 15A, @6A. the wattage you can figure out of like.

We all understand we got an issue, but yet we tell anyone exactly what was used.

if any of you are in here with a car that is from 2018 and up why are you not with your warranty?
 
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#21 ·
Good question on the warranty issue. Mine is a 2018 w/ ~40K+ miles (at the time of the socket issue originally mentioned), with extended warranty so yeah I could have brought it back to the dealer. But this was/is during the pandemic and the less I need to go into the dealer or leave them with my car the better. For little things like this I feel it's better not to let the dealer touch my car. Now, major mechanical issues, motor/transmission/etc., you bet I'll be using that warranty!
 
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