Hi, we have a 2022 Hybrid Touring AWD CRV which we purchased new two years ago. We just turned over 40,000 miles, most of which are highway, and we're too old to be driving aggressively or off road. Our local dealer has a laser system that reads one's license number and VIN, and then checks all four wheels' alignment automagically when one drives into the service department. They're telling me that the rear wheels need realigning. We've never owned an AWD vehicle before; is this a common maintenance item? Why might this adjustment drift under normal driving? Thanks in advance.
Testyoldguy
AWD Rear Wheel Alignment?
It happens normally and from factory riding over.
It is a good upsell tool, as well.
If tires look fine, drives straight, may have it done later date.
It is a good upsell tool, as well.
If tires look fine, drives straight, may have it done later date.
If your car drives straight, no pulling to one side and tires do not show uneven wear you can safely decline.
I'd ask for a printed report, make sure you rotate tires and monitor tread wear but as mentioned above, if you see no issues with wear or performance, it's probably safe to decline but I'd ask them for their opinion or an explanation, eg if tire wear is even, why does it scan that way? Maybe there's some insight from whatever magic they're using
Never heard of such system in uk. We have to normallly take it on a ramp, and then attach all the specialist equipment normally at places like a Bosch service centre (main dealers dont have that level of equipment).
I’ve had mine done and it did make a massive difference, tbh I do it for all cars I own regardless of if I think it’s driving straight. Many new cars are not aligned to that level.
I’ve had mine done and it did make a massive difference, tbh I do it for all cars I own regardless of if I think it’s driving straight. Many new cars are not aligned to that level.
Any front wheel drive car may need a rear alignment. Usually it is just toe-in unless something has gotten bent. Even a rear wheel drive car should get a thrust alignment where the direction of thrust of the rear axle is precisely measured and the fronts aligned to that, not just to the car's centerline.
Testy, is there an alignment shop near you that you trust? You might ask them for the cost of an alignment check including the print out of the measurements that Charlie described and if reasonable get it done. Or if you see abnormal tire wear, get it done.
https://mavink.com/explore/Alignment-Chart-Tire-Wear
The video here shows an alignment scam. Shield up!
Just in-spec is not always good enough. If one front wheel is at the far end of the spec, and the other front wheel is at the other end of the spec, they're in-spec, but it's a terrible alignment. It's best if they are both close to the center of the spec unless you have a special request. (My Tundra pickup had caster adjusters, and with both at the max allowable caster it was in its best alignment. I put camber adjusters into my Volvo, and at -2° the fronts wore evenly.)
Testy, is there an alignment shop near you that you trust? You might ask them for the cost of an alignment check including the print out of the measurements that Charlie described and if reasonable get it done. Or if you see abnormal tire wear, get it done.
https://mavink.com/explore/Alignment-Chart-Tire-Wear
Just in-spec is not always good enough. If one front wheel is at the far end of the spec, and the other front wheel is at the other end of the spec, they're in-spec, but it's a terrible alignment. It's best if they are both close to the center of the spec unless you have a special request. (My Tundra pickup had caster adjusters, and with both at the max allowable caster it was in its best alignment. I put camber adjusters into my Volvo, and at -2° the fronts wore evenly.)
KennethL: Thanks for the link! The garage that we'd used for the last fifteen years or so closed, so right now I don't have a trusted place. There's no particular tire wear problem at this point. They also wanted to change the brake fluid, which Honda recommends at 45,000 miles for severe service. We're not putting this car through severe usage, but it has been three years and there is a vent hole in the system. So it's possible that some water got into the fluid. I ordered a brake fluid water content tester, and I'll see what it says.
I'll look into these issues before the next oil change. It may be time to find a replacement garage other than the dealer as well.
I'll look into these issues before the next oil change. It may be time to find a replacement garage other than the dealer as well.
The dealerships are great for adding stuff to ordinary service calls. Keep in mind that the tech gets paid by the task, the service writer gets paid on commission, and the owner needs to make a payment on his new yacht.
When your brake fluid needs replacement depends...much on the usual humidity in the air in your region. It's more about humidity and time than it is about mileage.
Moisture in brake fluid is often ignored. There was a fatal collision at a state park near us a few years ago. It was a very steep hill, and the minivan driver didn't know to downshift. He used is brakes to the point where they overheated, the moisture in the brake fluid flashed to steam, his pedal went to the floor, and the fatal crash resulted. The same thing happened at a national park in the next county, the RV was coming down a long steep hill, that driver didn't know to downshift either, a passenger reported after the crash that she heard the brake pedal hitting the floorboards hard as the driver tried to brake until they crashed. No major injuries on this one. A friend was towing his horse trailer down a steep mountain on the other side of the state. Suddenly he had no brakes. He was able to stop by downshifting and using the parking brake, and the road flattened out. After he got stopped and caught his breath his brakes had cooled enough for him to carefully drive home. His mechanic diagnosed just old moist brake fluid.
Also, if anyone greatly overheats their brakes, not only do the pads & shoes & rotors & drums & all the rubber parts need to be replaced, but the brake fluid got cooked and needs replacement also.
When your brake fluid needs replacement depends...much on the usual humidity in the air in your region. It's more about humidity and time than it is about mileage.
Moisture in brake fluid is often ignored. There was a fatal collision at a state park near us a few years ago. It was a very steep hill, and the minivan driver didn't know to downshift. He used is brakes to the point where they overheated, the moisture in the brake fluid flashed to steam, his pedal went to the floor, and the fatal crash resulted. The same thing happened at a national park in the next county, the RV was coming down a long steep hill, that driver didn't know to downshift either, a passenger reported after the crash that she heard the brake pedal hitting the floorboards hard as the driver tried to brake until they crashed. No major injuries on this one. A friend was towing his horse trailer down a steep mountain on the other side of the state. Suddenly he had no brakes. He was able to stop by downshifting and using the parking brake, and the road flattened out. After he got stopped and caught his breath his brakes had cooled enough for him to carefully drive home. His mechanic diagnosed just old moist brake fluid.
Also, if anyone greatly overheats their brakes, not only do the pads & shoes & rotors & drums & all the rubber parts need to be replaced, but the brake fluid got cooked and needs replacement also.
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