you might need a stronger battery if you have a 550 cold cranks battery try a 640 or 600 plus cold crank battery that's what i did wih my 2016 Honda CRV

 

A 550 should be good for more than 3 or 4 days...mine is.

If you can confirm there is an abnormal parasitic draw and it's occuring on the "Back Up" fused circuit you should first consider the Bluetooth Hands Free module, which is used to interface your phone to the car's audio system. This module has been known to malfunction and draw as much as a half amp of current while the car is off. This is relatively easy to verify by simply unplugging the module, although it's not the easiest connector to get to.

Use a multimeter to check amp draw after all modules go to sleep. Then if there is a draw start pulling fuses and relays one by one to identify the circuit.
In a Honda make sure your keys are far away.
An infrared camera also is very helpful.

 

You can watch some youtube video's on how to test for parasitic drains. It is basically using an amp meter, letting the system go to sleep then, checking voltage across fuses, if one is found then removing the fuse to see if the amps drop.

 

Letting it run for 15 mins after jumping would not effectively recharge the battery, so your battery could still be the problem. Hook it up to a smart battery charger, or have it properly tested.

 

How old is the battery?

 

The battery is 2 weeks old.

 

Am guessing that you are in the Bahamas? Did you check the date code of the new battery? Old batteries can lose their capacity to hold a charge.

Assuming the battery is good then need to see what the electrical current draw is when the car is shut down and allowed to go into rest or sleep mode. A current meter set in line or in series with the battery is better than an amp clamp. The current we want to measure is very little so amp clamps are not very good at reading very small currents. Looking for 50 ma or less. Some newer cars have more electronics which use more power (higher current draw).

You did not mention year or trim level, FWD or AWD (Bahamas then probably FWD). Nor was any history of the vehicle was provided. Whenever you to go a new doctor, they always ask about the patient's history and even some family history. Was anything done to the vehicle? Like new head unit? Do you live anywhere near where rodents live?

Well, wish you luck and hope it is an inexpensive fix.

 

Am guessing that you are in the Bahamas? Did you check the date code of the new battery? Old batteries can lose their capacity to hold a charge.

Assuming the battery is good then need to see what the current draw is when the car is hut down and allowed to go into rest or sleep mode. A current meter set in line or in series with the battery is better than an amp clamp. The current we want to measure is very little so amp clamps are not very good at reading very small currents. Looking for 50 ma or less. Some newer cars have more electronics which use more power (higher current draw).

You did not mention year or trim level, FWD or AWD (Bahamas then probably FWD). Nor was any history of the vehicle was provided. Whenever you to go a new doctor, they always ask about the patient's history and even some family history. Was anything done to the vehicle? Like new head unit? Do you live anywhere near where rodents live?

Well, wish you luck and hope it is an inexpensive fix.

Good morning, the vehicle is a 2016 EX-L FWD, no work was done on the said vehicle I had it for 10 months. There was nothing done other than a service and the battery change. I’m headed to a mechanic today I’ll be sure to share the results. I’ll assume it’s a typo lol, I hope it’s not an expensive fix. Thanks

Was anything done before this happened? Any Aftermarket accessories? Aftermarket radio or Alarm? Subwoofer?

Absolutely nothing that I’m aware off’

 

Was anything done before this happened? Any Aftermarket accessories? Aftermarket radio or Alarm? Subwoofer?

 

It could be that the new battery is simply bad. Ran across a few of them in my days.

 

On my 2011 CR-V, I know I have a parasitic draw, but it would take a week for the battery to go if I'm not driving regularly (I discovered all this when I started working from home during the pandemic), or two weeks if I had been driving regularly. I never figured out the culprit, though I suspect the radio or maybe the remote starter, which I've long stopped using. In any case, I have gotten a trickle charger to keep the battery full when I know I won't be driving a lot, and that has worked great. Not expensive. The only issue would be your car needs to be close enough to an outlet (and even then, there are extension cords). But your battery draining in just a few days, that doesn't sound right and obviously is inconvenient even with a trickle charger.

 

I have a Gen 4 (2013) CR-V and after reading about a battery upgrade in this Group, I decided to replace my hopelessly inadequate stock group 51R with a larger group 24R battery. It fits snug but well, and more than doubles the CCA.
If you are using the group 51R in your 2016, I would suggest the bigger battery.
If you get the Odessy battery box and cover, it fits like it's made for it (almost).
It really is a game changer.

 

Is it the battery that came with a new car? If so the same thing happened to me. They put in crappy batteries. Had to have my new car towed to the dealer, they out in another battery which didnt last long either.

 

Had a similar problem with a 2015 Acura TLS. The battery date code on a two week old car was over 2 years old. Dealer put in new battery and problem went away.

 

Yeah. I literally NEVER purchase a new battery until I see the date code on it, because sometimes one does linger on the shelves for a long time at a merchant.

Happily, Costco turns over supplies really fast and the date codes are always fresh when I check before pulling a battery off the shelf. They also have the best prices, hands down.