What alternator did you put in ? As far as I know from forum aftermarket do not work well. OE refurbished are best to go...

 

I purchased the alternator new. I got a code for pcm so replace that after. The code didn’t pop back up for the pcm but the battery light is still on. Also every battery I put in reads a high voltage 14.5

Don't know if you have a voltmeter or comfortable working around the alternator while the engine is running. But there is a multi pin connector with 4 wires on it. There are two wires which could be useful to know what the voltages are on these wires. The first is the L wire. It will have a White/Blue color code. If the voltage on this wire is near zero then the alternator is not happy and signaling the ECM to turn on the battery light. The second wire controls the alternator's output voltage. This is the C wire. It will have a White/Green color code. The ECM will pull the voltage on this wire low ( near zero volts) when it wants the alternator to output a low voltage (~ 12.6V). The voltage on this wire will be be high ( ~ 8 V or greater) when the ECM requests a high alternator output ( ~ 14.5V).

Don't know if you have a voltmeter or comfortable working around the alternator while the engine is running. But there is a multi pin connector with 4 wires on it. There are two wires which could be useful to know what the voltages are on these wires. The first is the L wire. It will have a White/Blue color code. If the voltage on this wire is near zero then the alternator is not happy and signaling the ECM to turn on the battery light. The second wire controls the alternator's output voltage. This is the C wire. It will have a White/Green color code. The ECM will pull the voltage on this wire low ( near zero volts) when it wants the alternator to output a low voltage (~ 12.6V). The voltage on this wire will be be high ( ~ 8 V or greater) when the ECM requests a high alternator output ( ~ 14.5V).

I forgot the reading it was I think .5 to 1v I’m going to check that today again cuz I’m thinking the L wire. I even put a new ground wire

Sorry that you ran into a parts hanger instead of a good troubleshooter.
It looks like you have changed practically all the parts related to the battery light
The last thing to do would be the big four upgrade.
It means to change the .... etc
Of course, I am not advising that.
You need to look for the cause of the battery light
Would search the forum and internet for causes of battery light staying on
Youtube probably has many videos on it.
My first thing to do is to check for voltage drop across the battery negative post and engine block
If ECU is sitting on a higher ground then battery light would go on
But, that is only a guess.
And we have seen what guessing has done for you.
Sorry.

I took the alternator and tested it, it was fine 3 batteries all good to go..looked at all the fuses under the hood and under the dash everything checked out. When the car is idle the battery voltage drops to 13.8. I disconnected anything that draws energy I going to check the L wire today cuz everything else seems right. But I could be overlooking something I’ll try again today thanks

 

Don't know if you have a voltmeter or comfortable working around the alternator while the engine is running. But there is a multi pin connector with 4 wires on it. There are two wires which could be useful to know what the voltages are on these wires. The first is the L wire. It will have a White/Blue color code. If the voltage on this wire is near zero then the alternator is not happy and signaling the ECM to turn on the battery light. The second wire controls the alternator's output voltage. This is the C wire. It will have a White/Green color code. The ECM will pull the voltage on this wire low ( near zero volts) when it wants the alternator to output a low voltage (~ 12.6V). The voltage on this wire will be be high ( ~ 8 V or greater) when the ECM requests a high alternator output ( ~ 14.5V).

 

Sorry that you ran into a parts hanger instead of a good troubleshooter.
It looks like you have changed practically all the parts related to the battery light
The last thing to do would be the big four upgrade.
It means to change the .... etc
Of course, I am not advising that.
You need to look for the cause of the battery light
Would search the forum and internet for causes of battery light staying on
Youtube probably has many videos on it.
My first thing to do is to check for voltage drop across the battery negative post and engine block
If ECU is sitting on a higher ground then battery light would go on
But, that is only a guess.
And we have seen what guessing has done for you.
Sorry.

 

"I forgot the reading it was I think .5 to 1v I’m going to check that today again cuz I’m thinking the L wire. I even put a new ground wire"

.5 to 1 volt would turn the light on. If that's the case the alternator is not happy or the L "lamp" line is malfunctioning even if the alternator is outputting a good voltage and amps. BTW 14.5 volts from the alternator is the normal voltage for charging the battery and when the ELD sees a high electrical load.
I don't know when they test an alternator if they check L and C lines to see if they are functioning correctly. I know they spin up the alternator and check the voltage, current and AC ripple on the output.

 

Thanks I’m going to check that today

 

May I ask how you are physically accessing the L wire? The 4 wire connector is pointing down on the second Gen CRV. I can never see it well enough in any direction to get any probe to it without taking other stuff apart.

 

Any updates??

 

I have 2004 Honda CRV with the battery light always on and there is nothing wrong with car. Battery charges fine and has been like this for 4 years now after the original alternator failed and was replaced. When the alternator originally failed the battery light did not come on until battery died In middle of night on back road. After alternator was replaced the light stayed on and has stayed on through 3 engine replacements. Alternator died at 220,000 miles and battery light has been on since and car now has 315,000 miles and battery charges fine still.

This is old thread, but all I saw where answers stating something was wrong. If battery charges fine then ignore light. The light did not work when original alternator failed, so I look at the light as a reminder that that light is useless.

I was curious if someone knew how to shut that light off, but did not find that answer anywhere.

 

I was curious if someone knew how to shut that light off, but did not find that answer anywhere.

Are you looking for instructions like this?

Charging System Indicator Test — 2004 Honda CR-V 4WD L4-2.4L Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2004 Honda CR-V 4WD L4-2.4L.

charm.li

youll probably have to go to other sections in that website to get all the details.