On my Harley, I use a battery tender . Instead of alligator clips I have plug wired to the battery and unplug it when I ride. Very secure and reliable

 

You do the same thing with the NOCO. Although I replaced the NOCO connectors with a heavier duty SAE automotive connectors when the NOCO connectors wore out.

 

When you write "don't drive much on average and that's the reason for the battery maintainer" what does that mean? How often do you drive it?

When I was still doing that dirty 4-letter word called "work", I would leave our 2009, and then our 2014 Honda CRV's at the airport long term parking for my contract length of 90+ days, and never thought about the battery failing to start the Hondas. It always started.

I do use a Battery Tender on my Diesel farm tractor, especially in the winter, because she gets tempermental and balks at turning that diesel engine over when tempertures drop below freezing.

 

When you write "don't drive much on average and that's the reason for the battery maintainer" what does that mean?

Over the most recent 12 months, only put 2,000 miles on the Accord, but there were specific reasons for that very low mileage. For the CR-V, am guessing it will be closer to 4,000+ miles for the next 12 months. Some weeks it's only short trips to run errands, i.e < 10 - 15 miles for the entire week.

For the CR-V, went five weeks without doing anything with the battery, and then got an alert that said idle-start was temporarily disabled due to the battery or something else - can't remember what it was. While the NOCO doesn't tell you the charge percentage, it was acting like the battery was less than fully charged. It's been warm here, that probably doesn't help either.

 

I have Modified my car in a way like that

I walk up and plug in and off I go

Now I use what is called a Kill switch remote, as long as you connect like that photo above you are good or put a 2x4 if like

 

The eyelets shouldn't be a problem, they go under the screw that tightens the battery clamp to the battery post. The only thing is the nut on the negative post was not intended to be completely removed. They messed with the threads to keep the nut from coming off. Therefore simply ring eyelet so it looks more like a spade lug and slip it under the loosened nut
As mentioned, I didn't like the NOCO connector and replace it with a SAE quick connector, of course that means you have to replace the connector on the charger's cable. But all the materials are available on Amazon

 

This is really helpful and sounds like a good solution. Regarding the SAE extension cable, do you think something like the NOCO SAE adapter would be a potential solution to converting the connector on the charger's cable to SAE? It is compatible with the Genius5.
NOCO - X-Connect SAE Adapter - GC009

A couple more questions. How did you modify the ring eyelet for the negative terminal's battery clamp screw and did you use any particular type of tool? Also how did you anchor the cables so they don't move around?

 

This is really helpful and sounds like a good solution. Regarding the SAE extension cable, do you think something like the NOCO SAE adapter would be a potential solution to converting the connector on the charger's cable to SAE? It is compatible with the Genius5.
NOCO - X-Connect SAE Adapter - GC009

A couple more questions. How did you modify the ring eyelet for the negative terminal's battery clamp screw and did you use any particular type of tool? Also how did you anchor the cables so they don't move around?

This is really helpful and sounds like a good solution. Regarding the SAE extension cable, do you think something like the NOCO SAE adapter would be a potential solution to converting the connector on the charger's cable to SAE? It is compatible with the Genius5.
NOCO - X-Connect SAE Adapter - GC009

A couple more questions. How did you modify the ring eyelet for the negative terminal's battery clamp screw and did you use any particular type of tool? Also how did you anchor the cables so they don't move around?

Sure, that would work perfectly, it would eliminate the need for solder and heat shrink tubing to modify the leads from the NOCO charger.

 

Looking for advice on a 2025 Honda CR-V EXL. I have a NOCO Genius5 battery maintainer which I used with alligator clips on my old (2000) Honda Accord. I kept the hood slightly ajar with a wood block and that system worked fine.

Used the Genius5 for the first time this week with the CR-V. It seemed to work fine, but have a couple questions:

1. Is what I'm doing the best way to make the connections to the battery (see attached photos). I'm not connecting to the round part of the terminals themselves.
2. With the CR-V, the alligator clips only seem to stay attached when pointing straight up (I could tilt them slightly on the Accord). Don't want to leave the hood all the way open. It seemed like there is just enough clearance to lower the hood without latching it, but to be on the safe side was wondering if I should use something to keep the hood propped slightly open. Ideas?
3. Also, just wondering if there is any way to reduce battery drain by changing any CR-V settings, or is that not a good idea?

I don't drive much on average and that's the reason for the battery maintainer. TIA.

View attachment 171742 View attachment 171744

That's exactly what I do. I drive our 2018 on average 1-3 miles per trip and 1-3 trips per day. So from time to time I put I on the maintainer, and if we go away for a week I do that too. I attach the clips exactly as you show and it works fine. I have a garage, so I have no problem just propping the hood open. Usually, if I put it on at night, by the next morning the green light is flashing, so it has taken all night to charge from whereever it was to 90%.