You're battery will need to be load tested. If it passes the load test, works fine after being fully charged on a smart charger (ie noco), but still dies after a couple days, I'd check for some sort of parasitic draw using power while the vehicle is off.

 

So, your battery is roughly 3 years old, maybe a bit more. Not that uncommon to see modern vehicle kill a battery in 3 years. If you take good care of your battery, it might last 4 or 5 years, but if you pretend your battery is fine until the day it leaves you stranded... plan on replacing every 3 years.

DO NOT trust that battery until you see good data results from a proper load test. Starter batteries do not do well when being allowed to discharge to the point they cannot start the vehicle. The industry even says... starter batteries cannot be expected to survive more than 10 such episodes. But the fact is.. deep discharges (less than 8vdc on the battery) can kill a battery after one event of deep discharge.

As modern motor vehicles put more and more latent demands on modern batteries, the only recourse for the vehicle manufacturers is to plan bigger and bigger batteries with each new generation vehicle. Honda did this with the Accord in 2018 and the CRV in 2020... moving to the bigger H5 batteries (or equivalent).

Some owners up-size their battery when they replace it. This will give you more CCA (which is useless for a CRV) but more importantly it gives you a battery with a larger reserve capacity. More reserve capacity means on average the battery voltage will decline more slowly under normal parasitic drain. It is low battery voltage (voltage less than 12.5vdc) that creates the conditions for sulfation on the plates of the battery, and as the voltage continues to drop... sulfation accelerates.

 

You can buy car battery testers. A 500 amp variable load carbon pile tester will run $80. A 100amp fixed load tester runs about $25. A conductance/internal resistance meter type will run you $35-50.

 

To add to what ajchien has provided here....

For home consumer checks of their battery, the conductance based testers work just fine, and as you noted are inexpensive. This is the one I use, and it works great. It also performs starter and charging system tests as well.

 

My 2017 CR-V had the same problem just a few months after I purchased it. I took it to the dealer. The battery passed their test with no problems found.
Sure enough, the battery continued to go dead on me, even after the dealer applied the TSB fix for the parasitic battery drain.
Finally, I called the service manager. He very reluctantly admitted that their official Honda battery tester often reported a bad battery to be good.
The problem is this: Honda won't reimburse the dealer for a battery replacement under warranty if their tester reports the battery to be good.
After much complaining, I got the service manager to agree to replace the OEM battery (410 CCA) with a new Honda battery (500 CCA) off the books.
The battery has been perfect ever since.
Don't bother trying to check out the battery yourself..........Replace it with a 500 CCA battery

 

I got the service manager to agree to replace the OEM battery (410 CCA) with a new Honda battery (500 CCA) off the books

Just to verify, should I interpret this to mean any Honda dealer can obtain and install an OEM Honda 51R group size battery with 500 CCA in my 2019 CR-V when the time comes?

I imagine it would have a higher price compared to the one with 410 CCA.

I know Walmart offers one with 500, but all other things being equal, I'd prefer the Honda name on it.

 

Anyone purchasing a new 51R should definitely shop for, and pay the slightly higher price, for one rated for 500CCA.

 

Aside from the LX without smart door handles not having to periodically check for the presence of a working fob in the immediate vicinity right outside the vehicle, is there anything else that reduces the parasitic drain on the LX compared to the EX and higher trims while parked? In other words, how much difference over a period of 2-4 years can a 51R battery in an LX expect to have its life extended as compared to the same battery in a higher trim?

There's no sunroof, no push button start, no self-opening and closing rear hatch, no heated seats or mirrors, a much less complicated radio, etc. Pre-refresh, there's also no HondaSensing either. I'm not sure if the safety sensors (or anything else mentioned here) are part of the self-run tests the system conducts on itself while parked.

 

Thread moved. There is a whole section for this.

 

Batteries can be a bit of a different strokes for different folks situation. How you look at cost effectiveness can also vary.

Personally, I don't live in an area with very cold climate, I've always been more interested in "Reserve Capacity" than "CCA". Though they generally increase in tandem with each other, frequently there's a 10-15min increase in reserve between a brands most spendy level model and it's least expensive. But there might be a $50+ difference between them.

So it might mean saving $50+ and replacing it a year sooner or maybe not, because usually I see only a 6month difference in warranty between least and most expensive. I guess you can also factor in how well you take care of a battery. Set it and forget it or use a smart charger?

 

Most chain type parts stores will do a load test on the charging system while the battery is still in the vehicle. This diagnosis not only the battery but also the charging system. And they usually do it for free

 

my battery died just before the 3 yr warranty expired, so the dealer replaced it.
don't be surprised how quickly the FOB battery goes bad... on your FOB, replace w/good quality battery.

 

After my first battery died on my 2016 CRV, even with no indication from the battery symbol on the dashboard, I found a digital voltmeter that plugs into your cigarette lighter that even has two more outlets in the front of it.. Shows me my various voltages when my battery is under load with the lights on or off. Got this from Amazon for about $18. Probably not as good as the full load testers but at least it gives you an idea of what's going on.

 

Just go to Autozone and they will test it for free, no obligation.

 

It’s a parasitic drain, Don’t use the E brake or if you do you use the E brake don’t turn it off the vehicle for 20 seconds after you apply the brake, problem solved as crazy as it sounds

 

Original equipment batteries are warrented for three years, and in my experience, they die after three years. Your friendly Honda dealer will be glad to replace it with a 5 year battery at great expense.