Jack up the front end and put jack stands under to be safe. Chock rear wheels. Put gear selector in neutral. Spin the wheels checking the brakes. Then hand at 12 and 6. Push pull to check for play. Than hands at 9 and 3. Push pull again to check for play. Spin wheel checking for noise. I suspect wheel bearings.

I did replace my front wheel bearing due to the heat it had after a drive. It was much hotter than the other wheels. Took me nine hours due to fighting rust. ABS sensor did not want to come out and needed to be replaced. The wheel bearing are pressed in. So, had to buy new tools as well as the new parts to do the job. Remember that the wheel bearing is put in one way. It can be put in wrong then your ABS won't work. YouTube videos helped to know what to expect. Except the rust was way too much and caused much delay. Worse was the clip holding the wheel bearing in. It got to the point where I just wanted to buy a whole new knuckle. But, i kept at it and got it out.

Sorry, just remembering the hassle. But, it was good experience as it let me know I can do that job. Hopefully you find the issue and get it done easy. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I already checked the wheel bearing & it's fine. Today after work I put it back up & pulled the ABS module fuse(s). It's one of the 2-in-one types, a 20A & 40A with a common screw terminal connection at one end. The wheel spins when I pull the ABS module fuses. Put the fuses back, it locks up again.

Again, I have no experience with modern cars. I've only driven 1960's cars from 1995, until I had my daughter in 2017, and got the CRV to have something safer with AC for her. I've eliminated all the normal mechanical causes & know it is electrical or electro-mechanical ABS or AVS. I just don't have experience with modern ABS & AVS systems.

I assume there are additional test procedures that can be done to determine the exact malfunction of the ABS/AVS, but I don't know for sure. The scanner isn't picking up any fault codes with the ABS or AVS at all until I pulled the fuse. AVS light is off and has never come on. However, I noticed the switch for "AVS OFF" does not work. It will not disengage the AVS, no matter how long you hold it. That's why I pulled the fuse to disable the module & bypass the switch. When I pull the fuse, it gives me "52-1 DTC-ABS Pump Motor Relay Open Circuit" & "54-1 DTC-Fail-Safe Relay Failure". Those are both expected conditions with the fuse removed. Obviously, when I re-install the fuse & reset these codes, they stay off, as they're only due to the fuse being pulled.

I assume that if one of the wheel speed sensors was malfunctioning the scanner would pick it up? ABS module pumps fine during the auto bleeds with the scan tool, so pump is definitely working. I'm not the type that just buys parts & hopes for the best without knowing exactly what the problem is first. Anybody here know how to test if the ABS module itself is faulty? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Live data Pid of the ABS sensors (graph them ) should tell you if they are working right

 

Thanks man. I'll try that tomorrow if my scanner has that function. BTW, I noticed one of my tires was low on air & tripped the TPMS light & that's whey the VSA off switch wouldn't work. Apparently, if your TPMS is tripped the VSA off switch won't engage. After bringing up the tire to proper pressure the switch works fine, so I assume not related to the VSA or ABS issue.

I appreciate the advice.

 

Thanks again for the tip of running live data to detect the fault. I ran live graphed data of wheel sensors. Bingo, front right (passenger side) read zero. All other sensors functioning normally. Ordered the OEM Honda 57450-SWA-013 sensor. Still not sure why this didn't trip any error codes.

Unfortunately, the sensor was rusted solid to the knuckle. Even after penetrating oil, the hold down bolt broke. Tried reverse drill bit & easy out, but will have to drill out & helicoil. I ended up having to heat up a screw with a torch until red hot & screw it into the sensor to remove it. Once the screw was quenched & set solid in the sensor, I was able to use leverage to pry it out. Smoothed out the rusty bore with a round file & blew out with air.

Looks like problem solved once the new wheel sensor arrives & is installed.

 

Yeah, on my 2001 Elantra, the ABS sensor did not want to come out. Had to drill the sensor out as well as the bolt that holds it in place. Of course, not knowing what I was doing, I drilled the hole too big. But, just tapped it anyway. Used a bigger bolt and it was fine.

 

OEM wheel sensor arrived yesterday & was installed same day. Tested wheel rotation after the installation, and although it's not completely seized like it was before, it's still dragging hard. The only change is that I can now rotate the wheel with tire on, if I use a LOT of force. Ran graphed live data on wheel sensors after that & all wheel sensors are now functioning normally.

Since neither of my scan tools are giving me any codes, I took a guess that the ABS module itself is faulty. I don't like guessing & replacing things without actually knowing what the problem is, but I was able to find a tested used module for only $70. I installed the new ABS module today, bled the brakes manually, & did the ABS module auto bleed with my scan tool several times. Same exact issue as before. The only thing that's helped so far was replacing the faulty wheel sensor, but that still didn't solve the problem.

I know one of my scanners has an ABS & steering angle sensor neutral position recalibration function, but it won't work on this CRV. Are you supposed to run a sensor neutral position recalibration after doing brakes on modern vehicles equipped with ABS/AVS?? Anyone else here been through this or have any suggestions as to why the front passenger brakes are dragging after new calipers/pads, new flex line, and new ABS module??? Again, I've checked the wheel bearing by removing the brake line & rotating & push/pulling at the 12/6 & 3/9 positions. When I remove the brake line the wheel spins just as free as the others, so I'm assuming this is connected to the ABS/AVS somehow?

 

You might have to keep tracing the problem back all the way to the master brake cylinder. Or proprtioning valve if equipped.

Inspect all lines pertaining to that tire, perhaps something hit the metal line creating that same blocked hose effect.

 

You might have to keep tracing the problem back all the way to the master brake cylinder. Or proprtioning valve if equipped.

Inspect all lines pertaining to that tire, perhaps something hit the metal line creating that same blocked hose effect.

Mystery finally solved. I pulled both front brake calipers & compressed the pistons with a C-clamp. Initially it felt like the passenger side was more difficult to compress, but couldn't tell for sure by hand. So, I set up a jig for the C-clamp & calipers & used a torque wrench with an adapter for firearms I had that fits over the c-clamp handle securely. It took significantly more torque to compress the passenger side pistons. Long story short, defective "new" caliper.

The calipers I used were all rebuilt OEM Honda calipers I got through PartsGeek.com. I noticed that out of the four new calipers, the front passenger side had a different finish color (dark gray), where all others were a light silver. So, not sure if that's related in any way, if it was a new guy at the factory, liquid lunch, or whatever, but the caliper is defective. The calipers were all rebuilt by BBB Industries. I've had good experience with them in the past. This is the first time I've received a defective caliper from them.

New caliper arrived today in the same silver finish. Installed & works perfectly.