[chidog]

Its goofy that is $5 at home depot. Tractor supply likely less.

So where does the release cable connect to? So if a person does have a broke cable how to open?

 

[Mariano]

In the end, I didn't find out how to release the latch because I didn't have to, because my cable was good.

The cable gets into the latch from the left side of the car and connects to the lever that has the smaller spring. When you pull from the cable, the lever in the latch releases the lock, which is loaded by the second spring and lets the hood pop.

This picture shows the cable still connected to the latch:

The latch is shown from behind, so the cable is on the left of the car and the red arrow is the right side of the car.
The hooks on top are the ones that lock the hood, so that's upwards.
Half of the broken spring is still there.

In case of a broken cable, I'd say you should manage to slide in something from the right side of the car into the latch and push the lever at the end of the small spring (red arrow). If both springs are ok, that should release the latch.

 

[Mariano]

Its goofy that is $5 at home depot. Tractor supply likely less.

LOL $5 was actually for a box with four springs. I would have paid even more.

 

[chidog]

I suppose if a person wanted to and was a bit paranoid about the cable ever breaking the thing to do would to have a wire or what ever connected to where the cable is so you could reach it
and pull it to open the hood. It just would not be fun to have to destroy parts just to open the hood if the cable ever breaks.

And stupid me ! You already had a photo of it on page 1.

 

[Bubbalou88]

^^ Exactly. The one in your picture seems to be for a Gen4 (2012-2016). I found a similar picture on eBay. Anyways, it was very easy to figure out the position of the broken spring.

AT Home Depot I found a spring that looks identical to the broken one for $5 Now it's all re mounted and working.
It looks like Honda doesn't sell the springs. A new OEM latch costs a bit over 100 and there are some aftermarket for around 20.

Here is the latch with the HomeDepot spring (shiny and wider one):
View attachment 173687

Looks like you did a nice job cleaning it up as well as fixing it.

 

[chouser]

Thank you for your detailed photos. I had a different problem but your photos were just what I needed. My daughter's battery died so the neither the key fob nor the trunk latch would work. Only then did we realize that there's something wrong with her door lock keyway as well, and we had no way to get into the cabin to pop the hood and jump start the car. I watched several videos but couldn't figure out exactly how to release the hood from under the engine. Your photo with the cable still attached was just what I needed to figure out where to apply screwdriver pressure. We popped the hood, jumped the car, and we're back in working order. Thanks!

Now I just need to figure out what to do about the door lock.

 

[WiseAnt09]

Did you insert the screwdriver from underneath the car?!?

 

[Mariano]

Did you insert the screwdriver from underneath the car?!?

I couldn't find how to. From underneath, I couldn't see the latch at all.

 

[Arcaeopteryx]

Thank you for your detailed photos. I had a different problem but your photos were just what I needed. My daughter's battery died so the neither the key fob nor the trunk latch would work. Only then did we realize that there's something wrong with her door lock keyway as well, and we had no way to get into the cabin to pop the hood and jump start the car. I watched several videos but couldn't figure out exactly how to release the hood from under the engine. Your photo with the cable still attached was just what I needed to figure out where to apply screwdriver pressure. We popped the hood, jumped the car, and we're back in working order. Thanks!

Now I just need to figure out what to do about the door lock.

Hi @chouser, would you mind telling me where you applied pressure? Did you stick the screwdriver through the front, into the horizontal gap under the hood, or did you come up through the bottom of the car with a very long screwdriver?

I've just discovered that in recent CR-Vs, the lock now has an electronic actuator – there is no longer a mechanical linkage. So if your 12v battery dies, as can quite easily happen, the metal emergency key won't unlock the driver's door. Insane! It's putting me right off Hondas.

The only way around this would be some way of getting the hood open to recharge the battery, as you seem to have managed to do.

 

[crvtouring]

Hi @chouser, would you mind telling me where you applied pressure? Did you stick the screwdriver through the front, into the horizontal gap under the hood, or did you come up through the bottom of the car with a very long screwdriver?

I've just discovered that in recent CR-Vs, the lock now has an electronic actuator – there is no longer a mechanical linkage. So if your 12v battery dies, as can quite easily happen, the metal emergency key won't unlock the driver's door. Insane! It's putting me right off Hondas.

The only way around this would be some way of getting the hood open to recharge the battery, as you seem to have managed to do.

There is a linkage,they is a cylinder for the key under the handle

 

[Arcaeopteryx]

There is a linkage,they is a cylinder for the key under the handle

In older models, yes, and even some more recent ones. But in this post on Reddit, Honda UK advised a driver with this problem that "The locks on the 2023 CR-V are electronic and do not have a mechanical mechanism." The key didn't unlock the door as long as the 12v battery was dead. That person had to jack up their car and release the hood from under the engine bay.

 

[Mariano]

Be aware that this thread is about Gen 3 CR-V, (2007-2011 in US). A 2023 must be very different.

 

[Arcaeopteryx]

Be aware that this thread is about Gen 3 CR-V, (2007-2011 in US). A 2023 must be very different.

Ah right, apologies, I missed that. Moved my rant to the right forum.