I have one of those plug-in voltage meters as well, and see those very same reading in my '18 CRV that you described. I think that variation is completely normal as your driving pattern (i.e.; start/stop, speed, accessories on/off, etc.) fluctuates. Try driving with your headlights lights on all the time and your meter should read a constant 14.4V, or something close to that. My factory battery lasted almost 5 years. The only recommendation that I would make is that you consider investing in a smart charger to periodically give you battery a helpful overnight charge once in awhile. Personally, I think those charges do a better job recharging your battery than the alternator does under normal operating conditions. As technology and car manufacturers change what they put in automobiles over time, it pays to update the tools in your tool kit.

 

Thanks for your reply. I drove my Honda to some place next day after my post, and it was showing 14.4v all the way. On my way back it was showing 12.8v. So, I think it was showing 12.3v right after I replaced the battery because the battery was brand new and did not need any charge.

Regarding dealership OC: buy your own oil & filter, take those to the dealership for your OC. Be sure that the oil you purchase meets the requirements stated either in your driver's manual or on the oil filler cap. I've done this @ our local dealership for a $35.00 labor charge. Used to do my own OC for many years. Have little problem getting down on the ground, but getting back up .....!

When the dealership has finished with my OC, I go down to site sponsor Discount Tires for a free tire rotation [bought with the tire package]. May take a couple of hours for both procedures, but that is one of the benefits of retirement - 6 Saturdays, 1 Sunday.

So long as the oil meets the recommendations on your oil filler cap or owner's manual, you should be good to go. The most popular oil used by folks who do this is the brand "On Sale". As others have mentioned, when you find a brand on sale that meets those specifications, stock up for future OCs after the coming one.

Many posts on this forum regarding oil & filters. Another informative source is the site BITOG - Bob Is The Oil Guy.

Thank you for your reply and suggestions.
I will do OC myself next time. My Honda was on manufacturer warranty before and I did not want to touch it. Next time I will do OC myself. I have everything I need for OC and I changed oil many times on my previous cars. I always rotate tires myself. I had couple cases when dealership claimed that they rotated my tires, but actually they did not. One time my Honda dealership inspected and rotated my tires and told me that my tires looked good. But when I got home, I found a nail in my right rear tire. So, I don't trust them to rotate tires anymore.

 

Sounds normal

 

Regarding dealership OC: buy your own oil & filter, take those to the dealership for your OC. Be sure that the oil you purchase meets the requirements stated either in your driver's manual or on the oil filler cap. I've done this @ our local dealership for a $35.00 labor charge. Used to do my own OC for many years. Have little problem getting down on the ground, but getting back up .....!

When the dealership has finished with my OC, I go down to site sponsor Discount Tires for a free tire rotation [bought with the tire package]. May take a couple of hours for both procedures, but that is one of the benefits of retirement - 6 Saturdays, 1 Sunday.

So long as the oil meets the recommendations on your oil filler cap or owner's manual, you should be good to go. The most popular oil used by folks who do this is the brand "On Sale". As others have mentioned, when you find a brand on sale that meets those specifications, stock up for future OCs after the coming one.

Many posts on this forum regarding oil & filters. Another informative source is the site BITOG - Bob Is The Oil Guy.

 

1) is the voltage meter accurate?

2) the Honda dual charging system will normally cycle between 14.5+/- 0.1 and 12.5 +/-0.1 So other than your low charge state number being a tad low.. what you report out appears normal. With a brand new battery, the vehicle will spend more time in the low charge state, and may dip a bit lower than normal.

It would be prudent to test your charging system just to be sure there is no latent issue. I highly recommend any owner of a modern motor vehicle invest in one of these (or similar). It can test your battery (uses an impedance load test, rather than the old bulk load testers), and it can test your charging system as well as starter. Gives on the spot peace of mind about your battery.